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10-30-2010, 01:40 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by pasteofanchovie Quote
What do you mean there is an issue with metering with manual lenses on the K10D and K20D?
I have posted a chart several times (i don't have access right not to link it here) that shows the exposure behavior but in general at F1.4 it under exposes by a stop and moves to over expose by 2 ztops by F11 and then settling back to one stop over at F32

10-30-2010, 01:48 PM   #32
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Just found a k10d on craigslist last night for 250. That would be a great buy, and no slouch compared to the k20d. Id say the k10d with the WR 18-135 WR would be a killer combo for hikes.
11-01-2010, 10:40 AM   #33
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I don't think any post has thrown the K10 under the bus... If we did, we'd basically be throwing ourselves under the bus with it. Most have just said they'd get a used k20 over the 10 for the money. After all this is not fact, it's opinion's. Geesh some of us have thin skin.

The extra 4.4mp, little bigger LCD & ISO range and a few fixes from the 10 was enough for me to part with the extra bucks.

Don't forget to use the handy comparison:
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11-01-2010, 12:08 PM   #34
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My worthless contribution:

I did very careful analysis of the offerings from all brands 2.5 years ago, then bought a non-kit K20D (and DA10-17, DA18-250, FA50/1.4). The K10D was available then for less, but I figured 1) more megapickles, 2) some improvements, 3) I won't feel like 'upgrading' anytime soon. Yes, the K10-K20 ergonomics and interface are the same, and WR, and general performance (or so I've read); but the K20 overall just seems like a longer-lasting choice. If I needed video capability I'd be looking elsewhere.

11-01-2010, 01:16 PM   #35
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likewise..thought about the K-5 but much rather spend the money on glass instead.

once i have the glass that i need, then can follow all the users who upgrade each year.
11-01-2010, 01:51 PM   #36
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At that dollar level, an older camera and more $$ for lenses is perfectly appropriate.

There are very few situations where my K200D leaves me wanting, and most are remedied by either bounce flash, a faster lens, and/or shooting raw.

In fact, if this is your first DSLR, I'd consider going the prime route and getting whatever body you can afford alongside the DA 35 2.4. I've learned more from shooting with a standard prime than I ever did with the kit zoom.
11-01-2010, 03:41 PM   #37
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I think I will wait until I find a K10D or K20D (maybe even a K7 if I have the money) for a good price and low shutter count. Supposedly if you replace the K10D and K20D focusing screens with the LL-60 it helps a lot with manual lens metering, any truth to that?
11-01-2010, 04:16 PM   #38
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Don't worry about a focusing screen. The one that comes with the camera should work fine. I've tried the KatzEye and didn't like the way the camera metered so I bought the viewfinder magnifier, O-ME53 instead. I love my K10D.

11-01-2010, 11:20 PM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by pasteofanchovie Quote
I think I will wait until I find a K10D or K20D (maybe even a K7 if I have the money) for a good price and low shutter count. Supposedly if you replace the K10D and K20D focusing screens with the LL-60 it helps a lot with manual lens metering, any truth to that?
I have no personal experience, but I have heard that as well. I have also heard that it helps with manual focusing. Good luck finding one!
11-02-2010, 08:46 AM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Beswick Quote
I have no personal experience, but I have heard that as well. I have also heard that it helps with manual focusing. Good luck finding one!
I have a LL-60 for sale, but it is in the k10d body that I am selling in the marketplace. If anybody is interested.
11-02-2010, 06:17 PM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by grainbelt Quote
... In fact, if this is your first DSLR, I'd consider going the prime route and getting whatever body you can afford alongside the DA 35 2.4. ...
This is really solid advice. I for one am waiting for the price of the 35 to come down just a bit, and then I imagine I will be quite happy lens wise.
11-02-2010, 06:57 PM   #42
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Find a deal and go for it

I own both a K10 and a K20. Believe it or not, both have their merits, and in a world where the K5 is the new camera, I'd go for whichever presents the best deal.

Personally, I don't see much of a difference between the two cameras in real world functionality. The larger LCD and the ability to micro adjust focus for specific lenses on the K20 is nice, but not a deal killer. The high ISO is a little better on the K20, but still far behind a KX, KR, K5. Personally I shoot ISO 400 or lower on the K10 and ISO 640 or lower on the K20. Not much difference.

Regardless, there are some nice features to the K10. I find ISO 100 has the least noise of any digital camera I've used, and the 10MP files are a nice compromise if you plan to shoot RAW (not quite as large). If you shoot JPG, well, there is no end to the buffer on the K10.

K10 has a really loud shutter. K20 isn't quite as loud, but people will still know you're in the room. Good luck, find a good deal and go for it.
11-04-2010, 07:14 PM   #43
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What is considered a low shutter count when talking about the K10D and K20D?
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