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11-04-2010, 11:20 PM   #1
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K-7 AF-C and Auto AF selector

Quick question guys. When you are taking multiple shots of say a dolphin jumping out of water and of birds flying, do you turn on AF-C at the same time turning on the auto AF selector to let the camera determine the best focusing point?

I find that it is difficult to get good shots with AF-C and centre AF (not the gear's fault but my lousy skills). Wanted to know what is the correct technique to do this.

Thanks

11-05-2010, 03:42 AM   #2
hcc
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Raider,
I do a lot of similar shooting with waves, surfers, bores, ... Let me share my own experience with the K-7 and my lenses, using your example of shooting a dolphin jumping out of water.

I have tried AF.C with waves and bores, but I found that the single shot technique is too slow (even with AF.C). I really prefer instead to use the Hi continuous shooting at 5.2 fps: the K-7 is a formidable camera for that.

My prefered settings is AF.S and Hi continuous shooting. I am located usually a little far (at least 10 m away) from the wave/dolphin. I focus with AF.S and start the burst. Sometimes, I stopped the burst, re-focus quickly and re-start. (I prefer AF.S over AF.C because the focus confirmation is useful.)

Another favourite is to use MF and Hi continuous shooting. I focus manually the lens and start the burst as soon as needed. I use this technique especially with my Voigltander Nokton 58mm f1.4. When the target is more than 5-8 m away, the Voigtlander focus ring is basically set at infinity, and there is almost no need to play with/adjuct the MF ring.

All in all, I have done more than 6,000 shots using the above settings. I tend to use preferentially the former (AF.S + Hi continuous) with my DA18-250mm and Tamron 90mm, and the latter (MF + Hi continuous) with my Voigtlander 58mm and Tamron 90mm.

I may add that I set my camera for JPEG 14 Mp [*], allowing me to take some long continuous sequence of shots. And I use a Sandisk Extreme III class 10 card. Further I set my K-7 with AF center like you.

Hope that the comments will help....

Last edited by hcc; 11-06-2010 at 03:51 AM.
11-06-2010, 12:01 AM   #3
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Thanks hcc for your reply.

I am not sure if i am reading you right though...

QuoteOriginally posted by hcc Quote
I have tried AF.C with waves and bores, but I found that the single shot technique is too slow. I really prefer instead to use the Hi continuous shooting at 5.2 fps: the K-7 is a formidable camera for that.
Do you actually mean AF.S here? Not sure if the "AF.C" is a typo?

QuoteOriginally posted by hcc Quote
My prefered settings is AF.S and Hi continuous shooting.
You mean AF.C right?
11-06-2010, 03:49 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by raider Quote
Thanks hcc for your reply.

I am not sure if i am reading you right though...

Do you actually mean AF.S here? Not sure if the "AF.C" is a typo?

You mean AF.C right?
Raider
Apologies for any mis-understanding. I slightly corrected/enhanced my text.

My best preferences are:
AF.S + High continuous shooting (yes, AF.Single)
or
MF + High continuous shooting

Cheers...

11-07-2010, 04:07 PM   #5
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hcc,
but if you do AF.S + high continuous shooting, the subsequent shots from the K-7 will not focus correctly on the moving object, yes? I thought the reason to go for AF-C is that the camera maintain correct focus on the moving object?

Slightly confused here.
11-07-2010, 05:31 PM   #6
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That depends on how your object is moving. Your original example of a Dolphin jumping out of the water (assuming straight up jump) your focal length isn't going to change very much. So to get a good shot, you can use the continuous shooting to get the right Moment in the jump for your photo. Personally I've never cared for the machine gun approach. But just use single frame, and manually track whatever I'm trying to get. If I have a manual lens or one that can be switched to manual, Focus Trap (Catch In Focus) works quite nicely.

11-08-2010, 06:00 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by raider Quote
hcc,
but if you do AF.S + high continuous shooting, the subsequent shots from the K-7 will not focus correctly on the moving object, yes? I thought the reason to go for AF-C is that the camera maintain correct focus on the moving object?

Slightly confused here.
Raider,
If the subject is relatively far, the AF.S will focus on the moving object at the start of the sequence and the subject will remain about in focus during the jump. If would only be pb if the object is close, but I would not use AF.C because it may slow down the Hi continuous sequence timing. (I like to keep the frame rate at 5.2 fps (ie max speed) because I need sometimes the time of each photo.)

With MF, I always set the MF distance to the estimated distance about mid-jump (or mid-sequence). Out of the sequence, I will have at least 2-3 photos that are well focused. With the Voigtlander 58mm, the distance matters only when the subject is close (< 8 m). For a subject further away, it does not matter as I set the focus ring to infinity.

Hope that the comment will help...
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