Newbie! K20d dark photos & settings

rtrox · 11-07-2010, 06:52 PM

Long time Forum lurker! Finally saved enough for K20d and 2 lens(DA* 50-135 & 16-45 F4). I know that there is a steep learning curve from my F30d and SX20is but I need to know why my shots are usually very dark. I am trying all kinds of settings but when I need that quick snapshot and do not have time to think about everything is it unreasonable for me to think that I can take a shot on the green Auto mode and it not be a little more accurate to what I see? I am reading and learning all I can and hope to take a class soon but am wanting some suggestions on starting out. If I give the camera to a friend /wife to take a shot I put it in green mode and when they give it back pics are more times than not very dark. Thanks for all your help.

Attached Images

Pablom · 11-07-2010, 07:08 PM

what metering mode are you using? wrong metering method for a particular scene will lead to wrong exposure

p.s. don't use green mode. ever.

**davidreilly3207** · 11-07-2010, 07:17 PM

Doesn't look that dark. Are you calibrating your monitor?

MCsquared · 11-07-2010, 07:56 PM

It maybe a tad dark but nothing a little PP can't handle. I use program mode a majority of the time, especially when just messing around.

Ken T · 11-07-2010, 11:18 PM

Use TAv, Auto ISO 100-1250, +.7 Exposure Compensation, anh try with all 3 Metering Modes .

imtheguy · 11-07-2010, 11:30 PM

After 85,000 shots on my K20d I can atest that my copy takes slightly dark exposures too. I have read many times that Pentax does that as a conservative move to prevent blow-out from bright areas. Regardless, I often add +0.5 stops to the exposure when in Av or Tav mode.

Funny, my K-5 tends to overexpose slightly and I keep that camera at -0.5 exposure comp usually. All of this would only be a problem if there was no easy adjustment.

rtrox · 11-08-2010, 04:08 AM

I was using spot metering and I have been reading on the forum today about metering and what effect it will have so maybe that has been some of the problem. I read don't use the green mode all over the forum so I know I have a LOT to learn and look forward to the challenge. Is there a go to setting that works more times than not when you are just picking up the camera and do not have time to adjust much? I am buying exposure book on the way home from work!

rtrox · 11-08-2010, 04:14 AM

Yes to the monitor calibration and although it doesn't look that dark it was very bright outside and my histogram was far to the left. I am going to post a few examples that are more what I am talking about. Whats the best way to post pics with the info that ya'll need to see for making a better conclusion?

rtrox · 11-08-2010, 04:15 AM

Thanks McSquared! I will give that a try this week.

rtrox · 11-08-2010, 04:18 AM

Thanks Ken T! I have read that several times here this weekend. It looks like I am facing a steep learning curve!

rtrox · 11-08-2010, 04:21 AM

Thanks Lee! I have seen several posts where you have offered some great advice and I am trying several of your ideas.

JeffJS · 11-08-2010, 09:38 AM

Originally posted by imtheguy

After 85,000 shots on my K20d I can atest that my copy takes slightly dark exposures too. I have read many times that Pentax does that as a conservative move to prevent blow-out from bright areas. Regardless, I often add +0.5 stops to the exposure when in Av or Tav mode.

Funny, my K-5 tends to overexpose slightly and I keep that camera at -0.5 exposure comp usually. All of this would only be a problem if there was no easy adjustment.

So does mine. It was actually kind of a shock to me because every camera previously underexposed typically, in auto modes.

Originally posted by rtrox

I was using spot metering and I have been reading on the forum today about metering and what effect it will have so maybe that has been some of the problem. I read don't use the green mode all over the forum so I know I have a LOT to learn and look forward to the challenge. Is there a go to setting that works more times than not when you are just picking up the camera and do not have time to adjust much? I am buying exposure book on the way home from work!

You can use Spot metering if you understand what it is telling you in relation to your scene. You need to look at the entire viewfinder though and determine what your final exposure will look like. I'm of the camp that it's always better to slightly under expose anyway to save the highlights. Chances are, you metered for the Dog in your scene. What you've told the camera is that the Dog is 18% Gray (the only shade the meter understands, some say it's 12% but for the sake of discussion, we'll use 18). That's all well and good if the dog is in fact the middle of the shade spectrum of your scene. However, He is not. More likely the pavement is or even the grass. If you want to use spot metering (I use it almost exclusively to the chagrin of some here), set your camera to M mode and do some studying of how each area of a scene meters and set your camera accordingly.

Spot metering can lend itself to the auto modes if you make use of the AE-L but it really works best, in M mode. With it, you can tell the camera what shade is either Black, or White (or close to them) and the rest of your exposure will fall in line.

I actually didn't push this one far enough but if I had just let the camera auto expose, it too would have been too dark.

I also find spot metering useful when photographing This guy..

SpecialK · 11-08-2010, 10:15 AM

Originally posted by rtrox

I was using spot metering...

Unless you have a fair amount of experience with the "zone system" and interpreting your light meter, I would recommend not using the spot meter. In this case it made a light-toned dog middle gray - as it should.

Actually, there is very little difference in operation from your previous cameras.

nanhi · 11-08-2010, 12:18 PM

Dear RTROX, I was in the same predicament when I bought my K20D in May 2009. And you asked about settings, but no one suggested the right one. I had the same experience on this forum, so I found out the best settings. Here they are, and I bet you will start taking great photos:
a) use BRIGHT; Hue & Saturation "0", Contrast +2, Sharpness +3. See Fn menu.
b) use Auto AWB
c) Auto ISO between 100 & 800. Dont use Dynamic Range. Fn menu.
d) Centre point autofocus (SEL dial to center)
e) Spot metering is perfectly OK. Where you have an expanse of sky, snow or
water, use Matrix (multi segment) metering.
f)set auto focus to AF-S (single)
g) choose single exposure in the Fn menu
h) set JPEG quality to highest (premium) and 10 megapixel.
i) turn shake reduction ON
j) use Program (P) mode switching to Av (aperture priority) or Tv (shutter priority)
at the touch of the front and rear e-wheels. To return to Program mode just
press the green button.
k) keep the sun behind you. Shoot on sunny days.
Then post a few of your best shots.
You have great camera and an excellent lens collection.

rtrox · 11-08-2010, 06:34 PM

Originally posted by SpecialK

Unless you have a fair amount of experience with the "zone system" and interpreting your light meter, I would recommend not using the spot meter. In this case it made a light-toned dog middle gray - as it should.

Actually, there is very little difference in operation from your previous cameras.

Thanks SpecialK! I do not have any experience so I will try the other settings. Just bought a book on Exposure so maybe that will help.

11-07-2010, 06:52 PM	#1
rtrox New Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: knoxville Posts: 22	Newbie! K20d dark photos & settings Long time Forum lurker! Finally saved enough for K20d and 2 lens(DA* 50-135 & 16-45 F4). I know that there is a steep learning curve from my F30d and SX20is but I need to know why my shots are usually very dark. I am trying all kinds of settings but when I need that quick snapshot and do not have time to think about everything is it unreasonable for me to think that I can take a shot on the green Auto mode and it not be a little more accurate to what I see? I am reading and learning all I can and hope to take a class soon but am wanting some suggestions on starting out. If I give the camera to a friend /wife to take a shot I put it in green mode and when they give it back pics are more times than not very dark. Thanks for all your help. Attached Images

11-08-2010, 10:15 AM	#13
SpecialK Pentaxian Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: So California Photos: Gallery Posts: 16,481	Originally posted by rtrox I was using spot metering... Unless you have a fair amount of experience with the "zone system" and interpreting your light meter, I would recommend not using the spot meter. In this case it made a light-toned dog middle gray - as it should. Actually, there is very little difference in operation from your previous cameras. Last edited by SpecialK; 11-08-2010 at 03:50 PM.

11-08-2010, 12:18 PM	#14
nanhi Veteran Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bangalore, India Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 469	K20D Dark Photos and Settings Dear RTROX, I was in the same predicament when I bought my K20D in May 2009. And you asked about settings, but no one suggested the right one. I had the same experience on this forum, so I found out the best settings. Here they are, and I bet you will start taking great photos: a) use BRIGHT; Hue & Saturation "0", Contrast +2, Sharpness +3. See Fn menu. b) use Auto AWB c) Auto ISO between 100 & 800. Dont use Dynamic Range. Fn menu. d) Centre point autofocus (SEL dial to center) e) Spot metering is perfectly OK. Where you have an expanse of sky, snow or water, use Matrix (multi segment) metering. f)set auto focus to AF-S (single) g) choose single exposure in the Fn menu h) set JPEG quality to highest (premium) and 10 megapixel. i) turn shake reduction ON j) use Program (P) mode switching to Av (aperture priority) or Tv (shutter priority) at the touch of the front and rear e-wheels. To return to Program mode just press the green button. k) keep the sun behind you. Shoot on sunny days. Then post a few of your best shots. You have great camera and an excellent lens collection.

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11-07-2010, 07:08 PM	#2
Pablom Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Usa Posts: 1,940	what metering mode are you using? wrong metering method for a particular scene will lead to wrong exposure p.s. don't use green mode. ever.

11-07-2010, 07:17 PM	#3
davidreilly3207 Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: South Jersey Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 720	Doesn't look that dark. Are you calibrating your monitor?

11-07-2010, 07:56 PM	#4
MCsquared Forum Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Oklahoma Photos: Gallery Posts: 84	It maybe a tad dark but nothing a little PP can't handle. I use program mode a majority of the time, especially when just messing around.

11-07-2010, 11:18 PM	#5
Ken T Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: California, USA Posts: 536	Use TAv, Auto ISO 100-1250, +.7 Exposure Compensation, anh try with all 3 Metering Modes .

11-07-2010, 11:30 PM	#6
imtheguy Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Virginia Beach Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,950	After 85,000 shots on my K20d I can atest that my copy takes slightly dark exposures too. I have read many times that Pentax does that as a conservative move to prevent blow-out from bright areas. Regardless, I often add +0.5 stops to the exposure when in Av or Tav mode. Funny, my K-5 tends to overexpose slightly and I keep that camera at -0.5 exposure comp usually. All of this would only be a problem if there was no easy adjustment.

11-08-2010, 04:08 AM	#7
rtrox New Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: knoxville Posts: 22 Original Poster	I was using spot metering and I have been reading on the forum today about metering and what effect it will have so maybe that has been some of the problem. I read don't use the green mode all over the forum so I know I have a LOT to learn and look forward to the challenge. Is there a go to setting that works more times than not when you are just picking up the camera and do not have time to adjust much? I am buying exposure book on the way home from work!

11-08-2010, 04:14 AM	#8
rtrox New Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: knoxville Posts: 22 Original Poster	Yes to the monitor calibration and although it doesn't look that dark it was very bright outside and my histogram was far to the left. I am going to post a few examples that are more what I am talking about. Whats the best way to post pics with the info that ya'll need to see for making a better conclusion?

11-08-2010, 04:15 AM	#9
rtrox New Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: knoxville Posts: 22 Original Poster	Thanks McSquared! I will give that a try this week.

11-08-2010, 04:18 AM	#10
rtrox New Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: knoxville Posts: 22 Original Poster	Thanks Ken T! I have read that several times here this weekend. It looks like I am facing a steep learning curve!

11-08-2010, 04:21 AM	#11
rtrox New Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: knoxville Posts: 22 Original Poster	Thanks Lee! I have seen several posts where you have offered some great advice and I am trying several of your ideas.

11-08-2010, 09:38 AM	#12
JeffJS Inactive Account Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Michigan, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 7,484	Originally posted by imtheguy After 85,000 shots on my K20d I can atest that my copy takes slightly dark exposures too. I have read many times that Pentax does that as a conservative move to prevent blow-out from bright areas. Regardless, I often add +0.5 stops to the exposure when in Av or Tav mode. Funny, my K-5 tends to overexpose slightly and I keep that camera at -0.5 exposure comp usually. All of this would only be a problem if there was no easy adjustment. So does mine. It was actually kind of a shock to me because every camera previously underexposed typically, in auto modes. Originally posted by rtrox I was using spot metering and I have been reading on the forum today about metering and what effect it will have so maybe that has been some of the problem. I read don't use the green mode all over the forum so I know I have a LOT to learn and look forward to the challenge. Is there a go to setting that works more times than not when you are just picking up the camera and do not have time to adjust much? I am buying exposure book on the way home from work! You can use Spot metering if you understand what it is telling you in relation to your scene. You need to look at the entire viewfinder though and determine what your final exposure will look like. I'm of the camp that it's always better to slightly under expose anyway to save the highlights. Chances are, you metered for the Dog in your scene. What you've told the camera is that the Dog is 18% Gray (the only shade the meter understands, some say it's 12% but for the sake of discussion, we'll use 18). That's all well and good if the dog is in fact the middle of the shade spectrum of your scene. However, He is not. More likely the pavement is or even the grass. If you want to use spot metering (I use it almost exclusively to the chagrin of some here), set your camera to M mode and do some studying of how each area of a scene meters and set your camera accordingly. Spot metering can lend itself to the auto modes if you make use of the AE-L but it really works best, in M mode. With it, you can tell the camera what shade is either Black, or White (or close to them) and the rest of your exposure will fall in line. I actually didn't push this one far enough but if I had just let the camera auto expose, it too would have been too dark. I also find spot metering useful when photographing This guy..

11-08-2010, 06:34 PM	#15
rtrox New Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: knoxville Posts: 22 Original Poster	Originally posted by SpecialK Unless you have a fair amount of experience with the "zone system" and interpreting your light meter, I would recommend not using the spot meter. In this case it made a light-toned dog middle gray - as it should. Actually, there is very little difference in operation from your previous cameras. Thanks SpecialK! I do not have any experience so I will try the other settings. Just bought a book on Exposure so maybe that will help.