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11-11-2010, 08:25 AM   #1
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Getting Proper Exposure

OK, so im not sure if im doing this the wrong, right or hard way.
What I usually do is, compose, focus (not necessarily in that order) and then push the green button to let the camera change to proper exposure settings.

I then take that as a starting point and decide if they will work for what I want, if not I adjust accordingly (ie stop motion, DOF, etc).

So my question, is it something that I should be doing myself (figure out proper settings) or is that how most do it?

11-11-2010, 09:20 AM   #2
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What kind of lens, and what mode are you shooting in?
11-11-2010, 09:25 AM   #3
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I always shoot in Manual and I have a couple diff lens, they are in my sig. I mostly use the 2 da*'s
11-11-2010, 09:36 AM   #4
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That's about what I do most of the time using manual.

The only thing I will add is to thoroughly eyeball the subject before even looking through the v/finder (if there's time to do this, of course). It will help to show best angles, foreground/background features or clutter, etc.

11-11-2010, 10:08 AM   #5
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I basically first decide if aperture or shutter decision is more important for the particular shot, and work from there.

I always shoot ISO 100 in decent sun, so if I'm not getting an acceptable speed for handheld, or a moving subject, I'll up the ISO.

I pretty much know what F stop I want for certain things, so that's my starting point.
11-11-2010, 10:34 AM   #6
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Guess I can add, I am getting good exposures and taking good pics. I was just curious if I was going about it the right way or doing it another way was better, faster more accurate etc.
11-11-2010, 01:29 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by patriotap Quote
Guess I can add, I am getting good exposures and taking good pics. I was just curious if I was going about it the right way or doing it another way was better, faster more accurate etc.
To me, TAv is accurate and the fastest way when using Pentax body with 2 e-dial wheels, especially for the first shot .
11-11-2010, 02:17 PM   #8
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You need to answer ira's question

The proper settings are the function of what lens, what subject and what you want to achieve

Normally I will pick a shutter speed I want to stop action and let the camera pick the aperture

If you want certain characteristics such as shallow depth of field or really good depth of field the set the aperture and let the camera set shutter

If you simply push the green button and the camera is programmer to follow the lens ideal curve you are not in control of anything

While exposure will be ok you may have motion blurr or shallow DPF because the camera is thinking for you

11-11-2010, 02:28 PM   #9
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Actually it seems like you are doing things fine. Using the Green Go button gets you the starting point and then you adjust as necessary for speed aperture, etc., to get the best image for the situation. The suggestion to always start at a lower ISO is valid, but also be reasonable. If you are shooting under candlelight, ISO 100 will need to be changed!

Using Av or TV mode might speed things up a bit for some specific situations, but working in manual you seem to have a good handle on a useful workflow.

Regards,
11-11-2010, 02:43 PM   #10
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In M-mode using AE-lock is sometimes convenient: first press green button to get to the "Program Line" , then press AE-lock and use the (single k-x) wheel to scroll trough the time & aperture combinations for the metered exposure (like with "P-SHIFT"), and finally press the AE-lock again to adjust time / aperture in the usual way for exposure tuning.

Av, Tv and P (with +/- / P-SHIFT) might be more convenient than M especially if light varies. OTOH I like M, probably because getting introduced to SLRs in the film days, when an integrated light meter was high tech.
11-12-2010, 09:13 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by jolepp Quote
In M-mode using AE-lock is sometimes convenient: first press green button to get to the "Program Line" , then press AE-lock and use the (single k-x) wheel to scroll trough the time & aperture combinations for the metered exposure (like with "P-SHIFT"), and finally press the AE-lock again to adjust time / aperture in the usual way for exposure tuning.

Av, Tv and P (with +/- / P-SHIFT) might be more convenient than M especially if light varies. OTOH I like M, probably because getting introduced to SLRs in the film days, when an integrated light meter was high tech.
You lost me here:

Why would you need AE-lock in M mode?

If I want to shoot a flower at 1.4, ISO 100, and hit the green button, that sets my shutter speed. (On my K-x though you don't use the green button; the Av+- button does this in M mode.) And if I don't like the shutter speed it's giving me, I change one of the other two parameters.

Now, I can point the lens into the sun and the meter setting isn't changing. Where does AE lock come into this? It's ALREADY locked.

Also, I use center-weighted metering (sometimes spot), which allows me to meter on the most important part of the scene, and then reframe to my desired composition. For example, a red flower framed way to the left against a dark green wall, and I want the flower perfectly exposed.

I put the flower in the center of my viewfinder, meter on that, then reframe where 90% of the picture is dark green wall, but I'm still properly metered for the flower.

And again, no AE lock.

I'm not saying you're wrong, but I don't understand. It just sounds like a lot of steps and your steps are confusing me!
11-12-2010, 09:20 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ira Quote
If I want to shoot a flower at 1.4, ISO 100, and hit the green button, that sets my shutter speed. (On my K-x though you don't use the green button; the Av+- button does this in M mode.) And if I don't like the shutter speed it's giving me, I change one of the other two parameters.

Also, I use center-weighted metering (sometimes spot), which allows me to meter on the most important part of the scene, and then reframe to my desired composition. For example, a red flower framed way to the left against a dark green wall, and I want the flower perfectly exposed.
This is what I do and was my question about using the green button, so then I guess this IS how its done and I seem to be doing the right thing, yes?
11-12-2010, 01:56 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ira Quote
I basically first decide if aperture or shutter decision is more important for the particular shot, and work from there.

I always shoot ISO 100 in decent sun, so if I'm not getting an acceptable speed for handheld, or a moving subject, I'll up the ISO.

I pretty much know what F stop I want for certain things, so that's my starting point.
Same here. I think it's the best way to go about it.
11-12-2010, 02:44 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ira Quote
You lost me here:

Why would you need AE-lock in M mode?
...
I should have added that this is useful only when the body controls the aperture.

Say, I press the green button in M-mode with a Cosina 100mm 1:3.5 macro with the aperture ring in the A-position and get f=5.6 t=1/160, when I'd really like to use f=16 then simply dialing that in with +/- pressed would keep t=1/160, but with AE-lock I can dial trough the aperture/time combinations that result in the same exposure and stop at f=16 t=1/20, undo AE lock, take a picture, check that out and then continue with tuning the time if need be.
11-12-2010, 03:28 PM   #15
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My bad. Now I understand. Apologies.

I've been stuck in Super- Takumar mode for a long time and can't seem to get my brain out of it.
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