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12-31-2010, 08:18 AM   #16
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Download the file to your computer.

Connect your computer to the camera via the USB cable and the camera should become a removable drive.

Clear everything on your card. You can format it in camera (before connecting it to the computer).

Run the executable file that you download and that will extract the Readme.Txt and the BIN file that is your firmware.

Copy the file to your card (make sure it is in the root directory of the card, if you see the file AND a DCIM directory, you're good to go).

Disconnect the camera from your computer.

Press the menu button while turning on the camera. If you did everything right, it will ask if you want to update the firmware.

Make sure your batteries are fully charged as once you say Yes, you are at the point of No Return.

If all above is good, say yes, and do not Touch the camera until the screen says Completed and the card access light is flashing (I think the K-x flashes the light).

You will see a bar on the screen. Phase 1 followed by Phase 2. This entire update will take about 90-120 seconds.

At this point you can turn off the camera. Turn it on again and reformat the card.

Before doing anything read the readme.txt file in cases there's something I missed.



12-31-2010, 09:30 AM   #17
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Thank you!

Thank you SO much to everybody! I now have the current version of the firmware on my camera...and it still works!! Yay!
Now, if I still have battery issues, I'm going to know it's the batteries! I'm ordering some Eneloops today from Amazon, just in case.

-- Special thanks to JeffJS for taking the time for that specific instruction
-- Also, to Ira, for your Bar Mitzvah prayer...I think it helped!
12-31-2010, 09:35 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by LIGirl Quote

-- Also, to Ira, for your Bar Mitzvah prayer...I think it helped!
Oops! I guess you did it all on your own:

I didn't know when you were starting, so I didn't do it.
12-31-2010, 09:46 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by LIGirl Quote
Thank you SO much to everybody! I now have the current version of the firmware on my camera...and it still works!! Yay!
Now, if I still have battery issues, I'm going to know it's the batteries! I'm ordering some Eneloops today from Amazon, just in case.

-- Special thanks to JeffJS for taking the time for that specific instruction
:
Great! You're welcome. Now show us some pictures



12-31-2010, 09:58 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ira Quote
Oops! I guess you did it all on your own:

I didn't know when you were starting, so I didn't do it.
Lol! It's the thought that counts!

QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
Great! You're welcome. Now show us some pictures

I have to take pictures with it now?! JK...pics to follow!
12-31-2010, 10:25 AM   #21
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I have a Kx
I had the same problem. I upgraded to the latest firmware and I use Eneloops (from Sanyo). It is a big improvement. But I still can't take more than 300 pictures with one set.

Greetings from Bruges (Belgium)
12-31-2010, 02:28 PM   #22
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Chris: the number of pictures you get will depend on how much you use e.g. live view or the built in flash so 300/charge might be normal for in your kind of use. Also, even one defective cell would result in much reduced capacity for the whole set so trying another set or using a multimeter to check the battery voltages individually right after they have ran out of juice might be a good idea: if they don't all have about the same voltage at this point, then the lowest voltage ones are probably bad. Another thing is that these usually reach their full nominal capacity only after a couple of charges (or at least this is a common enough theory about them :-)
12-31-2010, 08:59 PM   #23
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Bonjour,
C'est un probleme connu.
1) Comme il a ete dit ci dessus, mettre effectivement le Firmware a JOUR.
2) Placer le REGLAGE des ACCUS en mode NI-MH (et surtout PAS auto)
3) Acheter un Vrai chargeur (tres important), genre le RS 700 (a 25 30 Euros)
qui a l'avantage en plus d'etre un exellent chargeur tout petit (evitez le RS 900)
4) Pour les Enellops c'est de tres bons accus, comme les Hybrio, etcetcet.
Il existe depuis qq temps des accus meilleurs que les Eneloop (2100mA/h) Chez Sanyo,
ceux cis c'appellent desormais "XX" et font 2500mA/h au lieu des 2100.
5) Eteignez l'ecran arrierre (LCD) qui s'allume a chaque photo (Grosse economie aussi)

Et par la suite vous pourrez comme moi, et SANS problemes depasser allegrement les 1000 cliches avec un SEUL jeu d'accus.

@Joelepp:
Je suis d'accord avec TOUS vos propos SAUF pour ceci
"un multimètre pour vérifier la batterie tensions individuellement juste après qu'ils ont manqué de jus peut-être une bonne idée"
Non ce n'est PAS la bonne methode, ici avec un multimetre vous exprimez une notion de tension (enfin je le suppose), et un accus peut etre parfaitement correct en TENSION et archi defectueux en R.I.

Si cet accus a ete maltraite avec un mauvais chargeur par exemple cas le plus frequent, la resistance interne (Abbreviation R.I) est haute.
c'est a dire, l'accus une fois qu'il est sollicite en AMPERAGE, sa tension s'ecroule, et l'accus ne debite plus ASSEZ et le KX ne s'affiche pas OU affiche Orange...bref ce n'est PAS bon.

Le seul Vrai Moyen pour connaitre le reel etat d'un accus et de le passer a l'analyseur.
Mais ca coute cher un bon analyseur d'accus (ce n'est pas a la portee des KXiens ICI).

Une tres bonne astuce consite pour tester la bonne validite d'un accus AAA/AA/C/D (et de sa R.I) est de trouver une lampe halogene H4 (celle avec le fil et la cosse) et en 6 volts 55Watts

Avec 6V 55Watts, vous etes sur de demander un DEBIT important a votre ACCUS et de tester la fiabilite de sa R.I (Cqfd ?)
Et cela coute contrairement a l'analyseur une misere.

Donc si votre ampoule 55w / 6Volts eclaire Orange Vif, votre accus est correct
Si elle Eclaire A Peine rouge...la RI de votre accus a Agmente ..et ca sent la fin de vie pour lui
Si ca Eclaire plus...accus bon pour un poste de Radio, Lampe Led, etc....

Vu ?

Bien cordialement, Jpette


Last edited by jpette; 12-31-2010 at 09:15 PM.
01-01-2011, 05:21 AM   #24
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@jpette: Sure, testing under load would be better than merely measuring the voltage. For that a suitable bulb would seem like a cheap and useful tool. A charger that handles the cells individually and reports the charge time or mAh would be another.
01-01-2011, 12:44 PM   #25
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@jolepp
Oui completement d'accord sur le BON chargeur par elements Individuel, etc.
D'ou mon conseil de hier no 3 "3)" du Lacrosse RS 700

1) Charge et Delta Peak Sur Chaque Element Separe
2) Suivi en Temperature par CTN (securite emballement temperaure)
3) Securite par Timer ou Overflow (Charge a 3700mA MAX)

Dans les Options:
Charge au choix:
200, 500 ou 700mA PAR elemernt et AU CHOIX
Mode Charge (Normal)
Decharge a 100, 250, 350 Ma (au Choix ET par Elements)
Test Pour connaitre la capacite REELLE de chaque ELEMENT (En mA/h)
Refresh (pour Restaurer un accus Inuilise depuis longtemps)

Affichage (AU CHOIX et PAR ELEMENTS) des 4 Accus en Cours en:
Mode En Cours (Charge, decharge, etc...)

Courant de Charge ou de Decharge si en mode decharge (ex: 200mA)
Tension de l'element (ex: 1.45v)
Capacite de l'element (en Charge ou en Decharge ex 1970mA/h
Temps Ecoule (ex 17:20)


Tout Petit et Pas Cher (entre 25 et 30 Euros), nomme BC 700 (je crois?) aux U.S.

Cordialement, Jpette
01-01-2011, 01:08 PM   #26
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@jpette: I think I have the same thing (highly recommended :-) (This, right?).

01-02-2011, 12:08 PM   #27
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@jolepp
Oui c'est celui ci , je ne savait pas qu'en allemagne ils s'appellait aussi BC 700 Normalement c'est une reference US le "BC" Europe c'est RS 700 Pourquoi ?, ce n'est pas grave c'est le MEME, ainsi que l'IPC-1L chez www.conrad.Fr (encore le meme), exite peut etre encore sous d'autres references ?.
Bien Cordialement, Jpette
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