[psychdoc]

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Money is an issue. I could spend maybe $30-$50 more than what I sell the kit lens for.

With what you noted above, there is no reason to replace the kit lens. Take as many pictures as you can and once you are comfortable with spending more, only then upgrade based on the style of shooting that you find yourself mostly wanting to do.

[sterretje]

Go out and buy a lens hood for that lens and start shooting.

[cats_five]

Go out and buy a lens hood for that lens and start shooting.

Ah yes - was forgetting the kit lenses often come without hoods. Somewhere in this site I believe there are links to the Ebay sites where you can get a good cheap replica. Can anyone provide a URL for the OP?

[jolepp]

These would look like the bayonet fixed ones with a filter door?

Amazon.com: Fotodiox Lens Hood for Pentax Ph-Rba SMC DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AL II Zoom Lens as 38741: Camera & Photo

PH-RBA 52mm Lens Hood for Pentax DA 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL - eBay (item 200559016296 end time Jan-26-11 12:50:25 PST)

[Kitty]

Thanks for all the help! I'm glad Pentax has such a good kit lens. Ok, won't spend on another lens for a while. I can spend my money on a hood and remote and polarizing filter

I see the B&W circular polarizing filter has the best reviews and is around $80 new.
This Nikon has great reviews for around $70. Amazon.com: NIKON CP/52 52MM Circular Polarizing Filter: Camera & Photo
The Hoya HMC is around $60. Amazon.com: Hoya HMC - Filter - circular polarizer - 52 mm: Camera & Photo
I was only browing Amazon to start. I guess I would try to something gently used to save money and afford a better quality filter. On Amazon the quality looks much worse if you spend less than $60.

Do I also want a warming filter, or just the polarizer? I read some review (I believe it's the first one on the K-r on Amazon) saying how outdoor pics had a horrible yellowish tint and made the pretty sunset look ugly. If it only happens with certain outdoor pics, I could be okay with that (rely on PP). It sounds like it may happen a lot outdoors. UV filter for certain situations? It would be nice if I waited and only got the polarizer.

I feel better with keeping a filter on the front to protect it, but I understand that may be unwise. I read that your filter can shatter more easily and scratch up the lens. And no good if you are degrading image quality. But is there an option for protecting it? Probably not anything cheap and good? I could keep the polarizer on a lot, except in lower light?

[jolepp]

Lenstip has been kind enough to test filters (with lab measurements):

UV filters test - Introduction - Lenstip.com

Polarizing filters test - supplement - Introduction - Lenstip.com

With UV-filters there seem to be two schools of thought: 1) don't use them, they degrade IQ, 2) Use them for protection, the degrading effect is minuscule.

If you want to use one for protection, be sure to get a quality piece to keep IQ loss to a minimum, the cheapos may pretty bad in this respect (otoh, by the above test the basic Hoya HMC UV(C) would seem to be on par with the much more expensive B+W offerings). Actually, there should be no need for a UV filter as such since the sensor filter(s) should block it; UV-filters just happen to be the cheapest multicoated filters (probably because most glass tends to block UV) and so they are good for protection.

You probably don't want a CPL for protection as it cuts about two stops, also one might do just fine without a multicoated one assuming the filter is used only occasionally (for enchaning sky/clouds and to eliminate reflections (water, snow, shooting thorugh a window) then again the multicoated Marumi that did well in the above test seems to be reasonably priced so it might be worth getting that anyway, instead of, say the slightly cheaper uncoated Hoya.

As for color tint, this is probably best handled by manual white balance settings (or PP) when/if AWB makes a mess of it. AWB is usually does a fine job, though. The worst and most common enemy of it would seem to artifical light but even there the manual WB setting seems to do it (once you figure out the setting to use).

[eddie1960]

nothing wrong with the kit lens at all, and it will make it easier to resell your body when you upgrade in a few years if you can offer the kit with it.
Really as you just got your first slr, it's a great place to start, get out and shoot a lot, learn the camera and what focal length you really shoot at most. then you can invest in some better lenses that are suited to your style. All Kit lenses suffer some faults, the Pentax though is likely the best out there.
When I first got my *ist ds I gave up a lot of my old gear to fund it, keeping only a long zoom. I bought a Da14 at the same time to get ultra wide, but lived with the kit for quite a while
Now that I have a lot of lenses I still have the WR kit for my K7 and will use it when the weather would stop me from taking out some of the other lenses

[Kitty]

Well, now I want to keep the kit lens BUT...
I think the one I got is not version II

Is it worth the trouble to sell this one and buy one that's version II? I'm guessing it would take me an hour of time and cost me a loss of $15-$25 (to pay eBay fees and shipping of both lenses).

How do I know if it's version II or not?
It was bought brand new from Amazon last week.
However, I don't see "II" anywhere on the lens or manual or serial number card. I don't think they promised a II lens.
The serial card says "DA L 18-55 F3.5-5.6 AL".
The lens says "PENTAX 18-55" on the top and "Pentax smc DA L" on the sides.
The manual is just generic for smc PENTAX-DA interchangeable lens.

[DaveHolmes]

Well, now I want to keep the kit lens BUT... I think the one I got is not version II

Don't worry about it...

[jolepp]

...
The serial card says "DA L 18-55 F3.5-5.6 AL".
The lens says "PENTAX 18-55" on the top and "Pentax smc DA L" on the sides.
The manual is just generic for smc PENTAX-DA interchangeable lens.

The DA L is the improved version so no worries :-)

[Kitty]

Great

Uh, also what about neutral density filters? To protect the front, instead of a UV filter.

[eddie1960]

Great

Uh, also what about neutral density filters? To protect the front, instead of a UV filter.

the problem here is nd cuts light and they cost more
useful to have as are nd grads particularly for slide shooters

[Kitty]

Ok, thanks

[cats_five]

Uh, also what about neutral density filters? To protect the front, instead of a UV filter.

Think of a UV as an ND 0 filter and you will be home and dry.

BTW I'm glad my NDs are Cokin-style as the filter ring on my kit lens is 52mm and on the 55-300 (and the Olympus lenses I've sold on) are 58mm - all I needed was a new adapter ring and I can keep using the same filters.

[eddie1960]

Think of a UV as an ND 0 filter and you will be home and dry.

BTW I'm glad my NDs are Cokin-style as the filter ring on my kit lens is 52mm and on the 55-300 (and the Olympus lenses I've sold on) are 58mm - all I needed was a new adapter ring and I can keep using the same filters.

I have numerous Cokin Filters from the film days
All Cokin P

Now I have a couple of lenses that really need the Cokin X

The Polarizer on the Cokin is only So So but given it covers all my lenses for a low average cost I'll live with it