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01-09-2011, 05:08 PM   #1
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dslr noob kx ghosting images (example shot)

look at the hand especially. why is it doing this?
related to shake reduction?

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01-09-2011, 05:16 PM   #2
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Slow shutter speed + motion = that effect.

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01-09-2011, 05:41 PM   #3
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Hi bob13bob,

As Adam said, it's combination of slow shutter speed and motion. The sharp part of the image is from when the flash fired, all the ghosting around it is from the ambient light affecting the exposure after the flash has fired but while the shutter is still open.

To remove the ghosting just shorten the shutter speed so there will be less ambient light affecting the shot (or use a tripod if you really want to shoot at 1/8s).

Cheers,
Stiv
01-09-2011, 05:47 PM   #4
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I agree with Adam. the flash froze the movement but, with the slow shutter, the sensor caught the rest of the movement. the max flash sync speed for the kx is 1/180th of a second, for general picture taking use the maximum.

01-09-2011, 05:58 PM   #5
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it's on "auto pict". this is normal for that? I can accept I need to tweak it like an instrument. Thanks for suggestions on how to do that. 50%+ of shots are ruined due to this problem, is that really the norm? I will post some more examples. I'm concerned my brand new dslr is broken.

my compact digital does better auto-flash.
01-09-2011, 06:28 PM   #6
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Now Bob your DSLR is only doing what you tell it to. Be patient keep trying
01-09-2011, 07:43 PM   #7
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No - your new DSLR is not broken. Pentax programmed the K-X and the K-R to work this way. I don't like it. My older K200D did not act this way. I can no longer set the K-R to autopict and give it to my wife to use like I did with the K200D. The flash pics from the K-R will come out like yours, I've tried already. I think Pentax set this up to meter for the whole picture and then add the flash, so that the background will be close to being properly exposed. Older cam - dark background, subject properly exposed by flash -no motion blur. Newer cam - background properly exposed, subject shows sharp flash exposure and motion blur. I agree it's awful, like an automatic fill flash with a slow shutter speed and high ISO. I'm still exploring the K-R. You could try some scene modes, maybe portrait. I haven't tried everything yet. I'm busy trying to repair my K200D and only shooting macros of the K200D as I go. That's why I bought the K-R, because the K200D broke.
01-09-2011, 07:59 PM   #8
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I read through the manual (tons over my head). so I set it on TV, and set it to 1/180. This the best way to do it at my level of skill?

01-09-2011, 08:21 PM   #9
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With a flash, you should be able to get much better results. I don't know what Auto mode you used but it looks like it selected a high ISO (from your Exif) and 'dragged the shutter' with a low shutter speed. Why it would do that, I have no idea. Perhaps Trailing Curtain Sync? I hate to say this to the new people but you'll get better results once you learn to use the camera. It just takes practice and some fiddling around to discover what works and doesn't work. If you want to use an auto mode, use either Tv or Av and with a flash, keep your ISO low. Unless you're trying to light up a cathedral, there is no real good reason to use High ISO, at that range, with a flash.

01-09-2011, 10:45 PM   #10
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For some reason Japanese mode programmers like ambient light to have more effect than we find good. I've seen it in other brands of SLR's as well.
01-12-2011, 11:14 AM   #11
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Did you have UV filter on the lens ? I experienced that even with a Hoya filter .
01-12-2011, 11:28 AM   #12
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The issue here is a function of letting the camera do too much.

Pentax DSLR cameras (to my knowledge all of them) are programmed to attempt to adjust the image settings automatically first in order to get correct exposure without flash, before adding flash. This is done to retain the natural ambient lighting in the environment and add flash only to the subject without turning the remainder of the frame black.

As a result, you have flash added to the natural light of the exposure, and they appear to be close to equal. therefore any subject motion at all will leave a trail or ghost, which is frozen in place only for the duration of the flash which is less than 1 mS.

In order to eliminate these blurrs, you need to increase shutter speed, and limit the auto functions set on the camera.

My approach when using flash, is to set the camera to manual, and then set the shutter speed to 1/180 (or what ever the maximum for the camera is), I set the aperture to get the depth of field I want, and I let the flash provide the necessary light to illuminate the subject. This can , depending upon the distance between subject and background, leave the subject correctly exposed and the background rfading to black.

Indoors I use a bounce flash to provide general illumination to the entire room.

You will need to experiment yourself on how much flash vs room ambient light you want in your shots, but you can expect that any shot with movement will be blurred unless the flash is providing almost all (more than 3 stops) of the light to the subject relitive to ambient, because even at maximum sync speed, things can move.
01-12-2011, 03:27 PM   #13
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Thanks for this, I'm a recent K-X owner and have also been disappointed with the quality of 'auto' shots. Encourages me to explore the manual settings.
01-12-2011, 04:19 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Joval Quote
Thanks for this, I'm a recent K-X owner and have also been disappointed with the quality of 'auto' shots. Encourages me to explore the manual settings.
Make sure you select the focus point and by doing that you tell the camera to use which focus sensor to focus on what you want to be in focus .
01-12-2011, 08:21 PM   #15
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ok here's what you can do.
1) set your shutter according to your FL, say if you have 50mm on, put it at 1/50 or 1/60

if you camera Aperture display is blinking that means it's not getting enough light... pop on the flash and see what sup.

All that stuff is while your ISO is in auto ISO.

The extra step is (and i'm not sure if this will apply to pentax), my sony auto ISO cap it off at 400, not sure if it's the same for pentax (some sort of cap).

if there is, just bump the ISO up 1 or 2 steps, and that's pretty much all you can do...

basically just control the shutter speed and ISO, keep raising it up till you can get a picture without blur.
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