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01-21-2011, 04:42 AM   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by flyer Quote
Use 100 ISO with an aperture of 8 or 11 with a shutter speed of 1/180, and the bar lighting will become irrelevant. That will make it about 8 stops above your set up, so the background will be almost black and anything and everything will fade into darkness.
This sounds like the best way to me.

01-21-2011, 05:24 AM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ira Quote
The flash is going to affect their play more than the tequila?
Actually yes. It will blind them and produce residual spots which will take many minutes to fade

It also may make the photographer the target
01-21-2011, 05:33 AM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
Forget the dart. It would be a waste of time trying to freeze it in flight. You want faces and expressions of the players. .....
I believe you might WANT the dart to show motion blur. That would add a dynamic feeling to the photo and help the viewer understand what's going on.

A motion frozen flash photo conveys little dynamic information and will just look like a dart magically suspended in space in front of a white faced mannequin. I'd much rather see/feel the motion of the thrower's wrist at the moment of release in the dimness of the pub. It will take many tries to get this photo, but the results could be worth the effort.

However, if your purpose is simply to document that a couple people played darts, flash once & be done with it!
01-21-2011, 08:05 AM   #49
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I can't help with the theory or with the practice, but I suggest you and a helper do some experiments at home in similar light conditions for an hour or so before you attempt this during a match. You don't need darts, just something throwable.

Any flash that lights up a player's face is going to affect their game - and, even worse, it'll be really really easy to release the shutter too early and blind them as they're throwing. Then the next one might be aimed at you!

If you find the light is just too low and the flash makes playing difficult you could consider bringing a constant light source (halogen lamp or similar) and positioning it to the side so at least everyone is disadvantaged equally - seems fairer.

(Can you buy a dart with an LED on the back..? That would look cool...)

01-21-2011, 10:55 AM   #50
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
Actually yes. It will blind them and produce residual spots which will take many minutes to fade

It also may make the photographer the target
I'm sure the people playing dart will be aware of what he is trying to do and will likely do everything they can to accommodate the OP, as past experience has shown.

That said, if you want to have the last word, go for it. I'm done discussing this subject.
01-21-2011, 11:01 AM   #51
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
The above pictures are still life and not as demanding on shutter speed as the you may need for those darts shots. You can always try both methods and find out.

One possible scenario you could encounter using a flash is crazy mixed light color temperatures that is hard to adjust in post. By that I mean the person throwing the dart will be daylight balanced by the flash and any people or things in the background not covered by the flash will have a different balance from the ambient light in the pub. Might not look so natural but its hard to say if that would be your case. But if your subject and surrounding all have same ambient light, you can more uniformly correct color temperature. With nothing in the background (black), the flash is the way to go. Set the power down to decrease flash duration and no problem freezing that dart. Just some rambling thoughts.

I will add if you are going to use the flash pick up some flash gels (likely the pub is tungsten so a 3/4 to full cto gel will correct your flash to the environment making post easier

otherwise i think Tuco has nailed it and Jeff picked up on the High iso alternate (bloody k5 goes so high I would think you could go flash-less unless it's a really dim bar. with my cameras i would be obliged to use flash

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