Settings for travel photos

Vilkvaale · 02-07-2011, 12:04 AM

Dear Pentaxians!

I`m still new in dslr. I`ll go to Portugal/Spain after a week (lucky me, huh?!).
My last travel pictures had some issues I still can`t find what I`m doing wrong.

If I shoot photos in good daylight, sunny weather, what settings would you suggest for nature photos including people (my friends) in it? How to get sharp persons in picture and also hills behind them?
Do I need change any setting if I shoot only landscape?

P.S. I have Pentax K-x and kit lense 18-55.
Thank you all

sterretje · 02-07-2011, 02:55 AM

What you're looking for is deep depth of field. This is achieved with narrower apertures (higher numbers) like f/11 or f/16. And focus on the people, not on the moutains.

I guess Av is the mode to go for. Further a low ISO during the day (200 is the lowest on a K-x?) and higher during dusk/dawn/evening. Pay attention to the shutter speed that the camera selects and adjust ISO if shutter speeds get too low or too high.

For landscape I usually use a higher f-number as well for the same reason unless I want to achieve a specific effect (foreground not sharp, background sharp).

PS if you post some examples with the exif intact (or add the basic info about shutter speed, aperure, iso and focal length), we might be able to determine what went wrong with your shots.

Jasvox · 02-07-2011, 03:39 AM

Sounds like a shallow depth of field. I would suggest shooting in F/8 or higher as long as in good lighting, otherwise the shutter speeds may be long if in less than ideal lighting. Sterretje is right, focus on your subjects and compose the shots so they are in focus most importantly and the stopped down aperture settings should also keep the background clear as well.

Jason

Vilkvaale · 02-07-2011, 06:03 AM

Hi, Sterretje,

thank you very much for your reply.

So you suggest f/11 or more for landscapes with people. I`ll try this.
You are right, K-x has ISO 200 as lowest. I always try to use it, if light is good.

For lanscapes without any people it would be f/5.6 or f/7 then?

Regarding my previous saying about going wrong, actually I have problems with correct focussing. I try to focus on person, but person`s face is not in focus and I can`t get why (but not always).

I try to focus on necessary point (face, for example) then half press shutter button, then I do recompositon, then shoot. But somehow I do this wrong anyway....

May be there is something wrong with settings, I use one center point focus (may be I should choose 5 or 11 points?) and there is AF focusing AF-C; AF-A; AF-S I think... I have set AF-A or AF-S I guess.

Which one should work for me? Or may be there is some other things..?

Thank you for your great help.

Vilkvaale · 02-07-2011, 06:06 AM

Jason, thanks!

Seems so that my problem is too small f numbers. I`ll try yours and Sterretje suggestion to use higher f/ numbers. Regarding shutter speed, I try to shoot not slower that 1/40. I don`t know if this is right, but I have heard that is slower than 1/40, my hands can`t keep it wihout shaking.

eddie1960 · 02-07-2011, 06:11 AM

Originally posted by Vilkvaale

Jason, thanks!

Seems so that my problem is too small f numbers. I`ll try yours and Sterretje suggestion to use higher f/ numbers. Regarding shutter speed, I try to shoot not slower that 1/40. I don`t know if this is right, but I have heard that is slower than 1/40, my hands can`t keep it wihout shaking.

true slower than 1/40 will show as softer images but SR should allow you to go much lower than 1/40 (subject motion will become an issue though)

cats_five · 02-07-2011, 06:16 AM

Shutter speed: the rule of thumb in 35mm days was that the slowest most people could hand-hold at was the recipricol of the focal length e.g. 1/50th for a 50mm lens. Wiht a digital lens I believe you use the 35mm equivalent, so for a 35mm lens on a Pentax, again 1/50th would be the slowest speed you are likely to be able to handhold at. The Shake Reduction helps a bit, but personally I don't rely on it.

So, that bounds your slowest acceptable shutter speed unless you start using a tripod, putting the camera on something, propping your elbows on something or some other tactic to reduce camera shake.

Aperture: You need to both understand depth of field and hyperfocal distance to get that one right, and also appreciate that most lenses have a 'sweet spot' where they are sharpest, usually at f8 or thereabouts. Rather than try to explain it myself, there is a really good website that does:

Online Depth of Field Calculator

ISO: Use the slowest one you can get an acceptable shutter speed and f-stop with. That gives you the least digital noise, and the best dynamic range.

sterretje · 02-07-2011, 06:34 AM

If you're having problems with focus, there can be several reasons.

The first one to check with a K-x is if you use center focus or that you let the camera decide (not quite sure what it's called, auto?). With the latter the camera might very well decide on the tree at the right/left and behind the people instead of the people themselves.

The other problem might be that your camera/lens combination suffers from front/back focusing. You can do some controlled tests (static subject, camera on tripod, daylight) to see if it can achieve correct focus. If it can, you indeed do something wrong. Else calibration is required.

Vilkvaale · 02-08-2011, 01:44 AM

Thanks cats_five

I know about slower speed and tripod, I have it, but of course it will be hard to use during trip, so I`ll try to use settings with shutter speed not slower that 1/50 or will put camera on something on low light conditions.

Vilkvaale · 02-08-2011, 01:50 AM

Originally posted by sterretje

If you're having problems with focus, there can be several reasons.

The first one to check with a K-x is if you use center focus or that you let the camera decide (not quite sure what it's called, auto?). With the latter the camera might very well decide on the tree at the right/left and behind the people instead of the people themselves.

The other problem might be that your camera/lens combination suffers from front/back focusing. You can do some controlled tests (static subject, camera on tripod, daylight) to see if it can achieve correct focus. If it can, you indeed do something wrong. Else calibration is required.

You mean metering method? There is multisegment; center-weighted or spot. I think I use Spot one.

It actually came in my mind may be that there is front/back focus problem. I have to check that one day.

Thank you for great help. Your good advices is really needed and helpful!

DaveHolmes · 02-08-2011, 02:36 AM

Originally posted by Vilkvaale

It actually came in my mind may be that there is front/back focus problem. I have to check that one day.

I've not heard this to be much of an issue with the kit-18-55mm... Others may well have more comment on this...

Originally posted by Vilkvaale

You mean metering method? There is multisegment; center-weighted or spot. I think I use Spot one.

I tend to use multi-segment for general 'snapping'... Spot for low-light and night shooting and sometimes centre-weighted for well lit indoor people shots (I use centre-weighted rarely)

Although I don't think this is what Sterretje meant... I believe he was talking about making sure you are aware of which focus point the K-x is using...

Press the 'OK' button in any shooting mode and you can set which of the 11 focus points is active OR you can set to the 2 'auto' modes (5 or 11)... This give the camera control of 'where in the frame' focus will be set... NOT RECOMENDED...
It doesn't help that the K-x's viewfinder has no visible (red square type things) focus points...
Most people tend to use centre focus point... lock focus and re-compose...

Originally posted by Vilkvaale

Seems so that my problem is too small f numbers. I`ll try yours and Sterretje suggestion to use higher f/ numbers. Regarding shutter speed, I try to shoot not slower that 1/40. I don`t know if this is right, but I have heard that is slower than 1/40, my hands can`t keep it wihout shaking.

Be aware that using a smaller aperture (higher f-number) will force slower shhutter speeds... You may have to compensate by bumping up the ISO... Although luckily with the K-x this isn't to much of a problem

Vilkvaale · 02-08-2011, 03:11 AM

Originally posted by DaveHolmes

I've not heard this to be much of an issue with the kit-18-55mm... Others may well have more comment on this...

OK, this would be issue for hihger level lense or if I would shoot something like macro, right?

Originally posted by DaveHolmes

I tend to use multi-segment for general 'snapping'... Spot for low-light and night shooting and sometimes centre-weighted for well lit indoor people shots (I use centre-weighted rarely)

Although I don't think this is what Sterretje meant... I believe he was talking about making sure you are aware of which focus point the K-x is using...

Is this the same 5 or 11 or select one point focusing mode? I`m little confused here

Originally posted by DaveHolmes

Press the 'OK' button in any shooting mode and you can set which of the 11 focus points is active OR you can set to the 2 'auto' modes (5 or 11)... This give the camera control of 'where in the frame' focus will be set... NOT RECOMENDED...
It doesn't help that the K-x's viewfinder has no visible (red square type things) focus points...
Most people tend to use centre focus point... lock focus and re-compose...

I always use one centered spot focus point (I select it in center). I lock focus with half pressed shutter speed, then recompose and shoot. Hmm, may be there is something with half pressed shutter speed? May be it`s not working on my K-x? Is there any settings which I may be on or of?

Originally posted by DaveHolmes

Be aware that using a smaller aperture (higher f-number) will force slower shhutter speeds... You may have to compensate by bumping up the ISO... Although luckily with the K-x this isn't to much of a problem

Yes, this I know, if I change aperture by one stop, speed will change 4 times or something... This one is something I can compensate with ISO. Let`s see how it will go for me.... The worst thing is that when you travel, you don`t have lot`s of time to change settings, make control shoots, etc.
My idea (after your advices of course) is to use Av mode, to set lowest ISO which is 200, to set f/8 (or something) and then keep an eye on shutter speed. If it will go slower that 1/50, I`ll change ISO to higher number.

DaveHolmes · 02-08-2011, 03:27 AM

Focusing and metering are not the same thing... You need to separate them in your mind right now mate!!!

Selecting focus points determines what what will be sharp.

Metering is about exposure... focusing isn't... You can have a perectly exposed shot thats sharp or blurry...

Spot metering takes a reading of the light from the same position as the centre-focus point...

Centre weighted takes a reading of the light from the middle area of the frame and averages that...

Multi segmented takes a reading of the whole frame and averages that...

BTW... The K-x's ISO range can be expanded giving you ISO 100

Vilkvaale · 02-08-2011, 05:12 AM

DaveHolmes

thank you for clarifying this! I really appreciate it.
So the last point for me today is to understand about AF-C; AF-S and AF-A.

sterretje · 02-08-2011, 05:35 AM

Originally posted by Vilkvaale

You mean metering method? There is multisegment; center-weighted or spot. I think I use Spot one.

No, I'm referring to the AF setup (page 117 of the K-x manual); spot, select or auto (5 point or 11 point)

Originally posted by DaveHolmes

Although I don't think this is what Sterretje meant... I believe he was talking about making sure you are aware of which focus point the K-x is using...

Indeed

02-07-2011, 12:04 AM	#1
Vilkvaale Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: RIX Posts: 38	Settings for travel photos Dear Pentaxians! I`m still new in dslr. I`ll go to Portugal/Spain after a week (lucky me, huh?!). My last travel pictures had some issues I still can`t find what I`m doing wrong. If I shoot photos in good daylight, sunny weather, what settings would you suggest for nature photos including people (my friends) in it? How to get sharp persons in picture and also hills behind them? Do I need change any setting if I shoot only landscape? P.S. I have Pentax K-x and kit lense 18-55. Thank you all

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02-07-2011, 02:55 AM	#2
sterretje Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Roodepoort, South Africa Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,561	What you're looking for is deep depth of field. This is achieved with narrower apertures (higher numbers) like f/11 or f/16. And focus on the people, not on the moutains. I guess Av is the mode to go for. Further a low ISO during the day (200 is the lowest on a K-x?) and higher during dusk/dawn/evening. Pay attention to the shutter speed that the camera selects and adjust ISO if shutter speeds get too low or too high. For landscape I usually use a higher f-number as well for the same reason unless I want to achieve a specific effect (foreground not sharp, background sharp). PS if you post some examples with the exif intact (or add the basic info about shutter speed, aperure, iso and focal length), we might be able to determine what went wrong with your shots.

02-07-2011, 03:39 AM	#3
Jasvox Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 3,107	Sounds like a shallow depth of field. I would suggest shooting in F/8 or higher as long as in good lighting, otherwise the shutter speeds may be long if in less than ideal lighting. Sterretje is right, focus on your subjects and compose the shots so they are in focus most importantly and the stopped down aperture settings should also keep the background clear as well. Jason

02-07-2011, 06:03 AM	#4
Vilkvaale Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: RIX Posts: 38 Original Poster	Hi, Sterretje, thank you very much for your reply. So you suggest f/11 or more for landscapes with people. I`ll try this. You are right, K-x has ISO 200 as lowest. I always try to use it, if light is good. For lanscapes without any people it would be f/5.6 or f/7 then? Regarding my previous saying about going wrong, actually I have problems with correct focussing. I try to focus on person, but person`s face is not in focus and I can`t get why (but not always). I try to focus on necessary point (face, for example) then half press shutter button, then I do recompositon, then shoot. But somehow I do this wrong anyway.... May be there is something wrong with settings, I use one center point focus (may be I should choose 5 or 11 points?) and there is AF focusing AF-C; AF-A; AF-S I think... I have set AF-A or AF-S I guess. Which one should work for me? Or may be there is some other things..? Thank you for your great help.

02-07-2011, 06:06 AM	#5
Vilkvaale Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: RIX Posts: 38 Original Poster	Jason, thanks! Seems so that my problem is too small f numbers. I`ll try yours and Sterretje suggestion to use higher f/ numbers. Regarding shutter speed, I try to shoot not slower that 1/40. I don`t know if this is right, but I have heard that is slower than 1/40, my hands can`t keep it wihout shaking.

02-07-2011, 06:11 AM	#6
eddie1960 Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 13,667	Originally posted by Vilkvaale Jason, thanks! Seems so that my problem is too small f numbers. I`ll try yours and Sterretje suggestion to use higher f/ numbers. Regarding shutter speed, I try to shoot not slower that 1/40. I don`t know if this is right, but I have heard that is slower than 1/40, my hands can`t keep it wihout shaking. true slower than 1/40 will show as softer images but SR should allow you to go much lower than 1/40 (subject motion will become an issue though)

02-07-2011, 06:16 AM	#7
cats_five Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Fife, Scotland Posts: 835	Shutter speed: the rule of thumb in 35mm days was that the slowest most people could hand-hold at was the recipricol of the focal length e.g. 1/50th for a 50mm lens. Wiht a digital lens I believe you use the 35mm equivalent, so for a 35mm lens on a Pentax, again 1/50th would be the slowest speed you are likely to be able to handhold at. The Shake Reduction helps a bit, but personally I don't rely on it. So, that bounds your slowest acceptable shutter speed unless you start using a tripod, putting the camera on something, propping your elbows on something or some other tactic to reduce camera shake. Aperture: You need to both understand depth of field and hyperfocal distance to get that one right, and also appreciate that most lenses have a 'sweet spot' where they are sharpest, usually at f8 or thereabouts. Rather than try to explain it myself, there is a really good website that does: Online Depth of Field Calculator ISO: Use the slowest one you can get an acceptable shutter speed and f-stop with. That gives you the least digital noise, and the best dynamic range.

02-07-2011, 06:34 AM	#8
sterretje Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Roodepoort, South Africa Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,561	If you're having problems with focus, there can be several reasons. The first one to check with a K-x is if you use center focus or that you let the camera decide (not quite sure what it's called, auto?). With the latter the camera might very well decide on the tree at the right/left and behind the people instead of the people themselves. The other problem might be that your camera/lens combination suffers from front/back focusing. You can do some controlled tests (static subject, camera on tripod, daylight) to see if it can achieve correct focus. If it can, you indeed do something wrong. Else calibration is required.

02-08-2011, 01:44 AM	#9
Vilkvaale Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: RIX Posts: 38 Original Poster	Thanks cats_five I know about slower speed and tripod, I have it, but of course it will be hard to use during trip, so I`ll try to use settings with shutter speed not slower that 1/50 or will put camera on something on low light conditions.

02-08-2011, 01:50 AM	#10
Vilkvaale Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: RIX Posts: 38 Original Poster	Originally posted by sterretje If you're having problems with focus, there can be several reasons. The first one to check with a K-x is if you use center focus or that you let the camera decide (not quite sure what it's called, auto?). With the latter the camera might very well decide on the tree at the right/left and behind the people instead of the people themselves. The other problem might be that your camera/lens combination suffers from front/back focusing. You can do some controlled tests (static subject, camera on tripod, daylight) to see if it can achieve correct focus. If it can, you indeed do something wrong. Else calibration is required. You mean metering method? There is multisegment; center-weighted or spot. I think I use Spot one. It actually came in my mind may be that there is front/back focus problem. I have to check that one day. Thank you for great help. Your good advices is really needed and helpful!

02-08-2011, 02:36 AM	#11
DaveHolmes Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 1,501	Originally posted by Vilkvaale It actually came in my mind may be that there is front/back focus problem. I have to check that one day. I've not heard this to be much of an issue with the kit-18-55mm... Others may well have more comment on this... Originally posted by Vilkvaale You mean metering method? There is multisegment; center-weighted or spot. I think I use Spot one. I tend to use multi-segment for general 'snapping'... Spot for low-light and night shooting and sometimes centre-weighted for well lit indoor people shots (I use centre-weighted rarely) Although I don't think this is what Sterretje meant... I believe he was talking about making sure you are aware of which focus point the K-x is using... Press the 'OK' button in any shooting mode and you can set which of the 11 focus points is active OR you can set to the 2 'auto' modes (5 or 11)... This give the camera control of 'where in the frame' focus will be set... NOT RECOMENDED... It doesn't help that the K-x's viewfinder has no visible (red square type things) focus points... Most people tend to use centre focus point... lock focus and re-compose... Originally posted by Vilkvaale Seems so that my problem is too small f numbers. I`ll try yours and Sterretje suggestion to use higher f/ numbers. Regarding shutter speed, I try to shoot not slower that 1/40. I don`t know if this is right, but I have heard that is slower than 1/40, my hands can`t keep it wihout shaking. Be aware that using a smaller aperture (higher f-number) will force slower shhutter speeds... You may have to compensate by bumping up the ISO... Although luckily with the K-x this isn't to much of a problem

02-08-2011, 03:11 AM	#12
Vilkvaale Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: RIX Posts: 38 Original Poster	Originally posted by DaveHolmes I've not heard this to be much of an issue with the kit-18-55mm... Others may well have more comment on this... OK, this would be issue for hihger level lense or if I would shoot something like macro, right? Originally posted by DaveHolmes I tend to use multi-segment for general 'snapping'... Spot for low-light and night shooting and sometimes centre-weighted for well lit indoor people shots (I use centre-weighted rarely) Although I don't think this is what Sterretje meant... I believe he was talking about making sure you are aware of which focus point the K-x is using... Is this the same 5 or 11 or select one point focusing mode? I`m little confused here Originally posted by DaveHolmes Press the 'OK' button in any shooting mode and you can set which of the 11 focus points is active OR you can set to the 2 'auto' modes (5 or 11)... This give the camera control of 'where in the frame' focus will be set... NOT RECOMENDED... It doesn't help that the K-x's viewfinder has no visible (red square type things) focus points... Most people tend to use centre focus point... lock focus and re-compose... I always use one centered spot focus point (I select it in center). I lock focus with half pressed shutter speed, then recompose and shoot. Hmm, may be there is something with half pressed shutter speed? May be it`s not working on my K-x? Is there any settings which I may be on or of? Originally posted by DaveHolmes Be aware that using a smaller aperture (higher f-number) will force slower shhutter speeds... You may have to compensate by bumping up the ISO... Although luckily with the K-x this isn't to much of a problem Yes, this I know, if I change aperture by one stop, speed will change 4 times or something... This one is something I can compensate with ISO. Let`s see how it will go for me.... The worst thing is that when you travel, you don`t have lot`s of time to change settings, make control shoots, etc. My idea (after your advices of course) is to use Av mode, to set lowest ISO which is 200, to set f/8 (or something) and then keep an eye on shutter speed. If it will go slower that 1/50, I`ll change ISO to higher number.

02-08-2011, 03:27 AM	#13
DaveHolmes Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 1,501	Focusing and metering are not the same thing... You need to separate them in your mind right now mate!!! Selecting focus points determines what what will be sharp. Metering is about exposure... focusing isn't... You can have a perectly exposed shot thats sharp or blurry... Spot metering takes a reading of the light from the same position as the centre-focus point... Centre weighted takes a reading of the light from the middle area of the frame and averages that... Multi segmented takes a reading of the whole frame and averages that... BTW... The K-x's ISO range can be expanded giving you ISO 100

02-08-2011, 05:12 AM	#14
Vilkvaale Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: RIX Posts: 38 Original Poster	DaveHolmes thank you for clarifying this! I really appreciate it. So the last point for me today is to understand about AF-C; AF-S and AF-A.

02-08-2011, 05:35 AM	#15
sterretje Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Roodepoort, South Africa Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,561	Originally posted by Vilkvaale You mean metering method? There is multisegment; center-weighted or spot. I think I use Spot one. No, I'm referring to the AF setup (page 117 of the K-x manual); spot, select or auto (5 point or 11 point) Originally posted by DaveHolmes Although I don't think this is what Sterretje meant... I believe he was talking about making sure you are aware of which focus point the K-x is using... Indeed