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02-12-2011, 12:01 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
That is not correct. In Av mode the lens would meter wide open. It will shoot at whatever aperture is set on the lens.
Tested it in Av mode but it shoots wide open. AE-L at fixed SS and ISO, and then took a pic at f/1.7 and one at f/22. Same exposure. Then M mode and previous Av pics both same as f/1.7

02-12-2011, 12:08 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
You can do both. What the Green button does in M mode, is Center the meter. It will stop down your lens to whatever aperture you have set on the aperture ring, take the reading, and set your shutter speed accordingly. To my knowledge, there is no Auto ISO in M mode so whatever you have it set at is what it will use.

The Other way, is the way I use (may work differently on the K200d). Use the Optical preview (that lever that is the on switch). This will activate the meter but will NOT set the exposure. You can use your meter view in the viewfinder at that point to dial the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO around until you have the exposure you want.
Interesting. Not used second method before, but it works fine in adjusting the shutter speed while you have to watch the Ev level indicator. No easy method to adjust ISO in M mode on K200 other than menu it seems. Thanks for tip. But Green button is easier in most cases, and probably advisable as a pre-cursor with the second method just to preset the correct ball-park.
02-12-2011, 12:11 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by KevinR Quote
Interesting. Not used second method before, but it works fine in adjusting the shutter speed while you have to watch the Ev level indicator. No easy method to adjust ISO in M mode on K200 other than menu it seems. Thanks for tip. But Green button is easier in most cases, and probably advisable as a pre-cursor with the second method just to preset the correct ball-park.
I'll give that it works better with a dual dial camera having an ISO button as the K7/5 do. Unless there is some special need to change it, mine is usually pegged at minimum ISO. Yes, until one is comfortable, the green button will get you there. Do note that the green button is also settable to take aperture or shutter speed into account.

02-12-2011, 12:31 PM   #34
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02-12-2011, 02:02 PM   #35
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Pred nedávnom som kúpil Pentax smc A 50/1,7 a som veľmi spokojný a priznávam, že 18-55 už ani nepoužívam. Za pár eur som dokúpil Pentax AF 1,7 adapter a dostal som veľmi dobrú kombináciu na portrét : A 85/2,8. V auguste som tu k smc A 50/1,7kúpil Vivitar 2x macro teleconverter a spolu dávajú tiež veľmi dobré výsledky, ale len v plnom manuálnom režime.
02-12-2011, 05:58 PM   #36
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Gentlemen, I stand corrected on what I mistakenly said about Av mode and M lenses and thank you for the information. Just do me a favor and don't ever mention this incident where my family might hear of it. I've been telling them for years that I am always right and I think they're starting to get suspicious.

OP, I notice in another thread in the General Photography section that you already have several flashes from your film days. You would need to check to be sure first, but it is entirely possible that one or more of them will take care of your current needs just fine, with no need to buy a new(er) one. (All the flashes I use are from the 1980s).

It sounds very much as though the bulk of your problem at the gym is fixable by something that can be had free of charge on the internet......an understanding of exposure (shutter speed, aperture, ISO). Awareness of what was going on with aperture and ISO probably would have saved the day for you. The problem certainly wasn't one of not having the right lens. For practical purposes, there is no difference whatsoever between a 50/1.7 and a 50/1.8. So if you had been aware of your exposure settings and how best to adjust them for the situation, then there is no shot the Pentax 50/1.7 could take that your Kalimar 50/1.8 couldn't also take.

I don't keep a list handy, but I know several of our friends here on Pentax Forums can provide you with links to some very good resources for learning about exposure. The basic principles are not difficult and getting thoroughly familiar with them is the single best thing anyone can do to improve their photos. And if you want to use off-camera flash as indicated in the other thread, then learning this stuff (and a bit more) is not optional. For that you will need a good understanding of it or you'll do nothing but drive yourself nuts trying to figure out why your photos are either always solid black, solid white, or have a dark stripe across the frame.
02-12-2011, 06:12 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
Gentlemen, I stand corrected on what I mistakenly said about Av mode and M lenses and thank you for the information. Just do me a favor and don't ever mention this incident where my family might hear of it. I've been telling them for years that I am always right and I think they're starting to get suspicious.

OP, I notice in another thread in the General Photography section that you already have several flashes from your film days. You would need to check to be sure first, but it is entirely possible that one or more of them will take care of your current needs just fine, with no need to buy a new(er) one. (All the flashes I use are from the 1980s).

It sounds very much as though the bulk of your problem at the gym is fixable by something that can be had free of charge on the internet......an understanding of exposure (shutter speed, aperture, ISO). Awareness of what was going on with aperture and ISO probably would have saved the day for you. The problem certainly wasn't one of not having the right lens. For practical purposes, there is no difference whatsoever between a 50/1.7 and a 50/1.8. So if you had been aware of your exposure settings and how best to adjust them for the situation, then there is no shot the Pentax 50/1.7 could take that your Kalimar 50/1.8 couldn't also take.

I don't keep a list handy, but I know several of our friends here on Pentax Forums can provide you with links to some very good resources for learning about exposure. The basic principles are not difficult and getting thoroughly familiar with them is the single best thing anyone can do to improve their photos. And if you want to use off-camera flash as indicated in the other thread, then learning this stuff (and a bit more) is not optional. For that you will need a good understanding of it or you'll do nothing but drive yourself nuts trying to figure out why your photos are either always solid black, solid white, or have a dark stripe across the frame.
Your secret is safe. Re exposure.. I thought your three legged teeter tauter explanation was pretty good. Why don't you link him to that?

02-12-2011, 07:09 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
Your secret is safe. Re exposure.. I thought your three legged teeter tauter explanation was pretty good. Why don't you link him to that?
Because I am naturally bashful. (And it took me just short of forever to find the darned thing again).

One Such Link

And Another Such Link

02-13-2011, 10:41 AM   #39
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I thought my explanation of the bank robbery was better.
02-13-2011, 02:06 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ira Quote
I thought my explanation of the bank robbery was better.
It did nothing to explain the relation between the three factors, but I'm still glad you posted it. I had to hunt for your bank robbery in order to find my post. Without it, I don't think I ever would have found it again.
02-13-2011, 03:41 PM   #41
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Thanks for the help I always left ISO at 100 to have lesser noise photos.
02-13-2011, 05:04 PM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by oldmower Quote
Thanks for the help I always left ISO at 100 to have lesser noise photos.
There's a price to pay for everything. ISO doesn't affect only noise...since all the three factors are interlnked what you do by choosing ISO100 is to tell the camera "I don't care what happens to the shutter speed, just make sure there is no noise!" The camera does as ordered and you end up trying to take action photos with shutter speeds of 1/45. Low noise is nice, but not at the price of ending up with shots ruined by motion blur anyway. Boosting your ISO to 400 or 800 would have resulted in fast enough shutter speeds to catch the action and the noise from 400 never killed anybody. Even 800 is not that bad. And there is denoise software available to help clean up the noise afterwards if you like. Some of it is even free.
02-15-2011, 11:19 AM   #43
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I got my wife a Sigma 28-105 F2.8-4 lens for $105 on ebay. I think that would be an excellent compromise.
02-15-2011, 02:51 PM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
It did nothing to explain the relation between the three factors, but I'm still glad you posted it. I had to hunt for your bank robbery in order to find my post. Without it, I don't think I ever would have found it again.
That's because you're not a newbie, since mine explained EVERYTHING in newbie language!!!

Bank robberies are exciting. Explanations about triangles and seesaws aren't.
02-20-2011, 11:44 AM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
Low noise is nice, but not at the price of ending up with shots ruined by motion blur anyway.
Exactly. Any shot you get is better than any shot you don't get. If ultimate detail and sharpness are necessary, stop-down and use a tripod. If *content* is primary, especially in action and drama and evocative shots, noise is likely the least of one's problems. HCB: Sharpness is a bourgeois conceit. If the noise in a shot is objectionable, print on textured paper and mount under matte acrylic, and don't let viewers get too close.

And read some McLuhan on 'cool' vs 'hot' media, and some cognitive research on how our visual systems synthesize what we see. But I digress.

QuoteOriginally posted by Ira Quote
Bank robberies are exciting. Explanations about triangles and seesaws aren't.
Ever seen a bank robbery? In Guatemala, the national sports are baseball and bank heists. Every bank has a few mean-looking guys with flak jackets and sawed-off shotguns standing around inside and out. Oh yeah, it's exciting. Excuse me while I use the ATM down the street. There's an armed guard there, too.

Hey, shotguns make a good metaphor for exposures too! The length of the barrel is like the length of the lens. The shot gauge is like the aperture. The powder load is like the ISO. Distance to subject is just the same. Et focking cetera. And when you SHOOT, you get results! You can even spray-and-pray.
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