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02-14-2011, 12:54 PM   #31
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So are you now sure your M lenses are stopping down for your exposures?
You can still shoot if your lens is set at f/8 (let's say) but you don't press the green button to stop down meter... and it will continue to shoot at f/1.4

You should expect the green button to reduce the brightness of the scene you're capturing momentarily when you look through the viewfinder, coinciding with a mechanical sound that operates the lens diaphragm. If this is not happening, you are not stopping down and still shooting at f/1.4 despite your settings.

02-14-2011, 01:25 PM   #32
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Has nothing to do with the fact that you are stopping it down to f16/22 and maybe using handheld while the shutter speed it quite slow? What are the shutter speeds?
02-20-2011, 06:36 AM   #33
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Hi all,

I think now I definitely see what happend.
As it was suggested, it seems to be just my fault.
I wasn't totally aware of the fact that the correct aperture is kept only in manual mode so I realize just now that the blurred shots were those made in different modes (Auto Av..); this means that for those shots I was shooting at 1.4 in sunlight (consistent with the fact that the camera tried to shoot as fast as 1/6000 s) totally disintegrating the exposure (btw did anyone of you experienced the same thing shooting in this conditions? just for testing I mean...)

you can see an example of wrong and correct exposure
Against the sun ISO 200

first case AUTO 1/6000 s (and then 1.4 I suppose)
second case Mmode 1/800 f11

The preevaluation of exposure time with the green button is a rather slow process though. If you want to catch something quickly it gets annoying.
How do you manage that? At some stage you just rely on experience setting the correct exposure for each scene?
Moreover I don't know whether some setting has to be made, but in M mode there is no EV display in the viewfinder, am I right?
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02-20-2011, 07:08 AM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by chutonio Quote
Hi all,

I think now I definitely see what happend.
As it was suggested, it seems to be just my fault.
I wasn't totally aware of the fact that the correct aperture is kept only in manual mode so I realize just now that the blurred shots were those made in different modes (Auto Av..); this means that for those shots I was shooting at 1.4 in sunlight (consistent with the fact that the camera tried to shoot as fast as 1/6000 s) totally disintegrating the exposure (btw did anyone of you experienced the same thing shooting in this conditions? just for testing I mean...)

you can see an example of wrong and correct exposure
Against the sun ISO 200

first case AUTO 1/6000 s (and then 1.4 I suppose)
second case Mmode 1/800 f11

The preevaluation of exposure time with the green button is a rather slow process though. If you want to catch something quickly it gets annoying.
How do you manage that? At some stage you just rely on experience setting the correct exposure for each scene?
Moreover I don't know whether some setting has to be made, but in M mode there is no EV display in the viewfinder, am I right?
Typically if shooting in the same setting, say your market scene in the first post, the exposure requirement isn't going to change that fast. Just set it, focus, and shoot. Focus again, shoot again. Minor adjustments can be made later if you want to make them. There are a lot of reasons to shoot RAW, This is one of them.

With respect to your EV in the viewfinder. Set your camera for Optical Preview (pg 124). When activated, you should be able to see the EV in the viewfinder as well as be able to evaluate your DOF. This only works that way in M mode to the best of my knowledge.

EDIT: Note that your Optical Preview is activated with the Green Button. This may negate using the green button to center the exposure meter and force you into true full manual shooting.



02-20-2011, 01:08 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
Typically if shooting in the same setting, say your market scene in the first post, the exposure requirement isn't going to change that fast. Just set it, focus, and shoot. Focus again, shoot again. Minor adjustments can be made later if you want to make them. There are a lot of reasons to shoot RAW, This is one of them.

With respect to your EV in the viewfinder. Set your camera for Optical Preview (pg 124). When activated, you should be able to see the EV in the viewfinder as well as be able to evaluate your DOF. This only works that way in M mode to the best of my knowledge.

EDIT: Note that your Optical Preview is activated with the Green Button. This may negate using the green button to center the exposure meter and force you into true full manual shooting.

Actually I'm totally ignorant in RAW editing, something I should definitely learn.
I found in most of the cases very difficult to set just one exposure for all pictures even for one room scenario. I will try to set the optical preview and check how fast I can work.

Thank you for the suggestions !
02-20-2011, 02:27 PM   #36
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As long as you have the software to do so, there's nothing to RAW editing. It is better (IMO) because it gives you greater control over things like exposure correction, lighting, sharpening, noise reductions, etc. If you can do all these things with a regular JPG, you can do them with RAW. Of course, you have to Have the RAW file.

Good luck with all of it..

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