[slip]

could someone please help or direct me in how to meter multiple flash setup in a studio?
I have a shepard-polaris flash meter which is very accurate but doesn't have all the bells and whistles of other models.I know how to adjust ISO, shutter, etc. I will have a main light, a fill light and eventually a hair light. I know how to meter one flash, but not sure how to meter so other lights are a partial f-stop under/over,.
It has ambient mode, wireless flash mode, wired flash mode, EV mode, and multi flash mode (no idea what use multi flash is for)
It is shutter priority only. can measure 1/10 of a stop.
also have reflective metering that I don't use much


any help much much appreciated!!

randy

[JeffJS]

I wouldn't call myself an expert but metering for one flash shouldn't be any different than metering for ten. As long as you can fire them all at once, you should be good to go. Yes? Or am I missing the point of your question?

[atupdate]

I would think it would be possible by triggering the flashes one at a time and taking the readings. Then you could change the strength of the fill flashes or the distance away from the subject to get under/over your main light.

Once you know the settings/distance, you can replicate the set-up as needed. I use a rope with 1 ft markings to help me set up my umbrellas at the same distance each time I use them.

Tim

[slip]

thanks so far. If I were to meter one at a time, then when they all fire, won't that change the exposure as one flash will "overlap" the other increasing the exposure?
for example, if I took a reading of f8 1/60 for the main flash, and then measured the fill for a stop under, when I fire both at the same time, won't the parts of the portrait that receives both lights measure brighter, and not be one stop difference anymore?
yup, I know I sound confusing but this subject is confusing to understand for me

both answers are on the right path....

thanks again

randy

[slip]

I wouldn't call myself an expert but metering for one flash shouldn't be any different than metering for ten. As long as you can fire them all at once, you should be good to go. Yes? Or am I missing the point of your question?

so you are saying as long as I point my incident light meter at the source of the light instead of the camera that will work for me?
I can't try anything out until my second light source comes back from sigma with the new firmware update to fire wireless from the k10

thanks again

randy

[JeffJS]

I don't do a lot of this but I have a Sekonic L-358 meter. With it, I can meter at the subject location (incedent) or from the camera location (reflective). I can use the Meter to fire the flashes with a PC cable or do so wirelessly with the pocket wizard type device (Mine isn't set up for that though). If you can fire your flashes all at once, and you have a flash meter (you say you do) you should be able to measure the exposure.

Sekonic Classroom: Metering Techniques

[atupdate]

thanks so far. If I were to meter one at a time, then when they all fire, won't that change the exposure as one flash will "overlap" the other increasing the exposure?
for example, if I took a reading of f8 1/60 for the main flash, and then measured the fill for a stop under, when I fire both at the same time, won't the parts of the portrait that receives both lights measure brighter, and not be one stop difference anymore?
yup, I know I sound confusing but this subject is confusing to understand for me

both answers are on the right path....

thanks again

randy

Yes the spill from one flash will increase the light covered by the other flashes. I assumed that you have non-identical flash units (different makes/strengths) and that you wanted to determine where to set them in relationship to each other. If this is the case, once you know the setting ratios between your main and fills, you can adjust them all the same amount until the final meter is where you want it.

If all of your units are the same and are placed at equal distance, setting the fills at one or two stops difference is easy, then you just need to adjust until you get the final exposure you want.

Tim

[Gashog]

Just hold the meter right against your subject, muslin....whatever you wish to meter. Fire all the flashes. You want to measure Key, spill, rim all at once. Point the meter at the light.

Show us pics!

[slip]

they will be all different outputs in manual mode (will need to either put the distance further away or use some sheets for diffusers)
this is where accurate light metering will save me setup time and be able to tweek the lighting for different effects... so far I have a 46 inch shoot through unbrella mounted on a tripod with a 40 watt slave optical triggered bulb, will have a sigma 500 super, and want to get an optical slave for my old vivitar flash for hair lighting. any other thoughts much appreciated

thanks so far

randy

[noblepa]

If you haven't already found it, there is a website called "The Strobist", that is dedicated to off-camera, multiple flash techniques.

Strobist

It is very popular and an excellent learning resource.

[slip]

If you haven't already found it, there is a website called "The Strobist", that is dedicated to off-camera, multiple flash techniques.

Strobist

It is very popular and an excellent learning resource.

this is a great source do you have any article that I can read that will get me closer to my goal?
so much to read so little time

cheers

randy

[Gashog]

I'm confused as to what the question is. Can you be specific for me? Like what you will be shooting and what you want it to look like? I just don't see what the problem is.
The only thing I would use a light meter for is the key light anyway. You are shooting digital right? Not film?
You said fractions of a stop. And using gobos and stuff. I don't have a clear visual of what you're doing, I guess.
You want to do a standard 3 point lighting...I got that.

I really am dyslexic so I'm sorry if I'm just not reading you.

[slip]

I'm confused as to what the question is. Can you be specific for me? Like what you will be shooting and what you want it to look like? I just don't see what the problem is.
The only thing I would use a light meter for is the key light anyway. You are shooting digital right? Not film?
You said fractions of a stop. And using gobos and stuff. I don't have a clear visual of what you're doing, I guess.
You want to do a standard 3 point lighting...I got that.

I really am dyslexic so I'm sorry if I'm just not reading you.

something like this but without back drop light as I don't own a back drop yet.

hope this help, should I shoot all light and just measure the light next to the face/person pointing at the light? or towards the camera and the light?

thanks

randy

[Gashog]

should I shoot all light and just measure the light next to the face/person pointing at the light?

Yes. This.

So you want a 3 light setup with a soft skim on one side and a hard skim on the other? What are you going to do with the light reading? Do you have a formula that you're trying to follow?

[slip]

Yes. This.

So you want a 3 light setup with a soft skim on one side and a hard skim on the other? What are you going to do with the light reading? Do you have a formula that you're trying to follow?

I would like window like lighting as a main with 3/4 stop fill in with rim hair lighting.
no real forumula, just want to know how to measure differences of the light from the different sources that fall on the head and shoulder (mostly as I don't have enough room for full body shots)

thanks for your patients

randy