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03-07-2011, 12:29 AM   #1
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How tight can you tighten a quick-release plate?

I don't want to rip the thread out of the bottom of the camera (obviously ), but I don't want the QR plate to rotate when the camera is on the tripod. I'm using an Arca-Swiss type plate with non-slip rubber/plastic patches in the contact area. It also came with an Allen key to tighten the plate. I haven't been able to find any camera-specific plates (K5 and K200D) which would hold themselves in place without muscle-man tension.

Richard.

03-07-2011, 01:17 AM   #2
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Hi Rich,getting info from PentaxUSA has been frustrating for me in regards
to 1/4-20 "grade"
Will not recommend to you,what I have done is assume that insert is grade 5
carbon(SAE 300 series) which shows proper torque for them as follows.
8 ft-lbs(foot-pounds), 96 in-lbs(inch-pounds)
have to reduce torque for stainless hardware(305 series).

There are ohm meters available that can determine torque applied by resistance
of material,use them quite often at work.In the event of warranty issue related
to torque value,have no doubt 'company' would use against anyone.Why you see
numbers related.Strongly feel ALL camera makers should be more forth-right
in information available to consumers.

Im fortunate in that heaviest lens I have has both 1/4-20 and 3/8-16 tapped
holes,dont worry about it with 3/8-16 hardware.
03-07-2011, 01:58 AM   #3
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I simply tighten mine tight. I didn't bother investigating at all, but I've not had any problems with the previous camera (Olympus E510) and I don't expect any with this one, though I had to tighten further in the very cold weather we had in the winter. I never have to remove the plate as I can open the battery compartment with the plate on the camera.
03-07-2011, 02:29 AM   #4
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I use the RC4 platform from manfrotto and I often just use a coin from my wallet to tighten it until it will no longer move without applying significant force, the manfrotto plates have a rubber grip on them so they don't slip easily. I do the same with the L brackets I use from RRS, though I have applied some rubber compound to them to prevent any slipping.

03-07-2011, 03:22 AM   #5
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If it's a hand tightening:


Crank that thing with your hands.




If it's coin tightening:

Crank that thing with a coin (sometimes the coin bends!)



If you use tools or other torque enhancing devices to make the fit tighter you can expect the fitting to fail (ie: break off inside your camera).

I have a K-5 myself with a manfrotto q-r camera plate. Hand tight is all it takes for a secure fit.

Last edited by RXrenesis8; 03-07-2011 at 03:35 AM.
03-07-2011, 04:32 AM   #6
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I use arca-swiss quick release plates that screw in with a small allen wrench. With a 3 inch arm, and just tightened to being snug, I have never had the camera move a bit never a problem. That is using both a K20 and K100. I also have a manaffro RC plate that is finger tightened - like in the image from RX and that works well too. I really do not think that this is an issue to worry about.

03-07-2011, 06:30 AM   #7
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The Feisol plates have a very "sticky" rubber surface on them that grabs the bottom of the camera very snugly. I just tighten them on with a quarter.
03-07-2011, 11:57 AM   #8
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Thanks, guys. So I guess the 1/2" drive torque wrench dialed up to max is a bit of overkill

Richard.

03-07-2011, 04:09 PM   #9
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No! No! No!

QuoteOriginally posted by RichardS Quote
Thanks, guys. So I guess the 1/2" drive torque wrench dialed up to max is a bit of overkill

Richard.
You guys are using a sledghammer to kill a mosquito.

This is how you do it.

1) Go to hardware store, buy a small roll of teflon tape. Also known as plumber's tape. Will cost you about $1.

What Is Plumber's Tape?

2) Cut off about a 2-3cm strip and loosely wrap it around the screw of your Arca-Swiss plate.

3) Gently but firmly use your allen wrench to tighten the plate to the bottom of the camera. (Or use a quarter in Wheatfield's case).

4) If the plate still slips or rotates, cut a longer strip of plumber's tape and wrap it a couple extra times around the screw and repeat step 3.

You will find your plate will sit firmly and solidly against your camera. I always have a small roll of plumber's tape on hand when connecting things to my tripods, cameras, lenses, etc. I always use this when connecting lens plates to my heavier lenses (like 300/2.8 or 600/5.6).

You all owe me for this now.
03-08-2011, 02:30 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by tranq78 Quote
You guys are using a sledghammer to kill a mosquito.

This is how you do it.

1) Go to hardware store, buy a small roll of teflon tape. Also known as plumber's tape. Will cost you about $1.
Does that actually work? My experience with plumber's tape is that it helps the thread to bind and closes gaps in irregular thread. It stops threaded joints from leaking, but it does nothing for what the thread is trying to hold. The issue is how to stop the plate slipping. You can do that by having a barrier that stops the plate turning. A lip on the plate that wraps round the edge of the body would do that. The alternative is friction between the plate and the bottom of the camera body. Roughly speaking, the force that you need to apply to overcome friction depends on how tightly you can hold the plate to the camera body. The coefficient of friction comes in here, and it's going to vary with squishy contact surfaces like rubber. If you're relying on friction, then infinite tension of the attaching bolt would do it. You might have problems with stripped threads, attachment points pulling away from their bases, broken tools, pulled muscles, etc. I don't think it'll work.

Richard.
03-08-2011, 02:49 PM   #11
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If you are using AS style head, you own yourself an anti-twist plate which was invented by RRS. They were created just to solve this problem. With flat plates, it won't matter what materials and how hard you tighten, THEY WILL SLIP with heavy enough lens. I even broke the 1/4 screw by tightening it so hard and the damp thing won't stop slipping. Just get the RRS plates (or any same design plates) and never look back.
03-08-2011, 08:42 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by wlachan Quote
If you are using AS style head, you own yourself an anti-twist plate which was invented by RRS. They were created just to solve this problem. With flat plates, it won't matter what materials and how hard you tighten, THEY WILL SLIP with heavy enough lens. I even broke the 1/4 screw by tightening it so hard and the damp thing won't stop slipping. Just get the RRS plates (or any same design plates) and never look back.
Makes sense. Thanks.

Richard.
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