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03-09-2011, 09:18 AM   #1
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best mode setting for A series or M series?

i have been shooting in Av mode for A series lenses as well as for the one M lens i have, the exposure seems to always be a little off, either brighter or darker, is there a better setting for the manual focus lenses (w/ k5 and k20 ) that you use?
thanks

03-09-2011, 09:35 AM   #2
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Exposures will always be a "little off", at least until you get really familiar with your specific equipment. The problem is you and your camera meter have different ideas on what the correct exposure should be. Large dark or light areas in the scene can fool the meter. This is where your experience will be needed to know when to + or - exposure compensation. Plus, some lenses just over- or under-expose somewhat.
03-09-2011, 09:43 AM   #3
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Cant say regarding K5,use manual mode on K20 almost to exclussion of other modes.
Though will use Av with "A" series lens rarely.Not uncommon for metering errors
to manifest with manual apeture lens such as "M" series.K20 manual states that
meter when used in this manner is just a realtive reference point and indicates
experience with particular rig is needed to achieve desired results.
03-09-2011, 10:08 AM   #4
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M mode only for the M type lens. Av will always shoot wide open regardless of where you set the aperture ring with an M lens. I prefer M for A type lenses too but you can use any mode you wish with them.



03-09-2011, 10:20 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
M mode only for the M type lens. Av will always shoot wide open regardless of where you set the aperture ring with an M lens. I prefer M for A type lenses too but you can use any mode you wish with them.

Quoted that for emphasis. There's not really a choice of modes for K or M lenses.

The camera will also switch metering modes to center-weighted if you were using matrix metering with other lenses. If I'm carrying a wide variety of lens types, I'll choose CW metering so I don't have to worry about this switch. Spot metering works with all types but is unreliable with a split-prism screen, so if you've swapped focus screens you probably want to avoid spot too.
03-09-2011, 02:49 PM   #6
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ok, thanks, how about , should the focus mode lever be in the AF.S, AF.C or M position with an A lens? does it matter?
03-09-2011, 03:22 PM   #7
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Focus lever setting should not affect exposure regardless.For manual focus len's
"A","M" series and others,would want to be in manual focus setting(M) so you can
use icon&beep as confirmation of 'good' focus.

Keep in mind if you decide to use 'catch in focus' function with manual lens
(gets confusing) lever has to be in AF-S position and that function enabled in custom menu setting.
Didnt mean to complicate,CIF is great way to get "a handle" on a manual lens
and eye-hand co-ordination required for good focus on static(still) subjects.
Gives an ideal what you should see in viewfinder.
03-09-2011, 03:23 PM   #8
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It doesn't matter. As shipped, the K5 will only fire in AF-S if you have focus confirmation. This is most useful for using Catch In Focus. You Can set it so that it will fire regardless of focus just as it will in M (focus). With AF-C, it will fire regardless. With the K5, you Can change the focus confirmation requirements. The K20d, AF-C and M will fire without focus confirmation, with AF-S, you must have confirmed focus (again, useful for catch in focus).

So all that Really matters, is what You want to do.



03-10-2011, 10:24 PM   #9
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Regardless of which mode you use, your meter will want to set your camera to take a mid tone image. That will often over or under expose the photo. For example the camera will want to make snow or sand a mid tone and under expose the image up to two stops. A person at night standing under a streetlight will get over exposed when the camera tries to make the dark background a mid tone.

Start paying attention to how your subject fits into the overall scene and adjust either the exposure in M mode or the exposure compensation in Av. With a little practice you can quickly judge within a 1/3 stop, which is generally good enough.
03-11-2011, 01:52 AM   #10
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thanks, catch in focus- i tend to use the center focus point and re-align the shot a little, do i need to change from center focus to select a focus point for catch in focus, or the multi focus point setting, i'm not sure what the catch in focus is. does it shoot as soon as the focus point confirms focus?
03-11-2011, 02:18 AM   #11
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It triggers the shutter as soon as correct focus is found. Keeping your finger on the shutter button all the while. of course.
03-11-2011, 06:00 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by mysticcowboy Quote
Regardless of which mode you use, your meter will want to set your camera to take a mid tone image. That will often over or under expose the photo. For example the camera will want to make snow or sand a mid tone and under expose the image up to two stops. A person at night standing under a streetlight will get over exposed when the camera tries to make the dark background a mid tone.

Start paying attention to how your subject fits into the overall scene and adjust either the exposure in M mode or the exposure compensation in Av. With a little practice you can quickly judge within a 1/3 stop, which is generally good enough.
Quite right. And here's an old trick from the days of (at best) center-weighted metering on rangefinder & viewfinder film cameras: DON'T METER THE SUBJECT! METER SOMETHING NEARBY THAT'S THE SAME BRIGHTNESS! If a subject has similar skin tone to yours, take the reading off your hand. If their clothes are about the same brightness as yours, meter off your sleeve. It's easy: Switch to M-mode, aim at yourself, press the green button, then frame-compose-focus the subject, and shoot.

Similarly with back- or side-lit scenes and 'scapes -- meter off the ground around you. Or if you want to be picky, carry a small 18% gray (midtone) card with you, and meter off it. Or use a simplified zone system: meter off the brightest and darkest parts of a scene, and set the exposure midway between them. Or [gasp!] buy a handheld reflected-and-incident light meter and learn how to read ambient light.

The point of the above is that in many situation, you can take a reading of a scene / subject, set the camera for that exposure, then shoot away, disregarding fluctuations in light because of varying light-and-dark areas in your compositions. For instance, I'm in the Red Rock country around Sedona Arizona on a bright but partly cloudy day. I'm shooting 'scapes of the dramatic geology. Were I or the camera's metering robot to try to meter each shot as I aim in various directions, it would get messy. Instead, I meter for the midtone, and know that shots with varying amounts of mountains, blue sky, clouds, ground cover etc won't bias my consistent exposure.
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