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05-23-2011, 07:15 AM   #16
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I think center focus (unless you are using Manual focus) and recompose is faster and less fiddly than screwing around moving focus points. The only time I would change that (for me) is if the subject(s) was standing or sitting still. That applies to focus/recompose too I suppose but, I think you have a better chance of getting a shot if you're not adding the extra setting step of changing the focus point.



05-23-2011, 08:08 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by sany Quote
Can the seniors suggest what I am doing wrong here. My second day playing with the K-r. If you see this picture, the face is focussed in the centre but on the sides it looks blurred - can you advice what I should do to get the full face in focus.

Second Question: say I have selected the right side focusing points on the side then does this mean the right edge of the picture will get focus?
I think the 1st thing you must realize, the 35mm lens you are using is not the best to take closeup photos. Also, like others pointed out, some movement occurred that caused what should have been sharp to blur slightly.

Depth Of Field is a direct relationship with the camera distance to your subject. If your photo (attached) is an uncropped image, then I would think, with a 35mm lens, you were very close to your daughter. Even if you used f5.6 or 8, being that close to your subject will still get you a lot of Out Of Focus area; and using f2.4 at that distance can only guaranty maybe a couple of inches of DOF but if you were to step back a few feet and use the same settings, more of your daughters face and head would come into focus. (and you can always crop for the final image)

I see you also have a Tamron zoom, that lens set at @ 50-100mm wide open will probably offer you better results, with most if not all of your image nicely focused... assuming the light is just right
05-23-2011, 11:36 AM   #18
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Can somebody also explain to me whether the subject (or that which has to get the focus) needs to be exactly behind those focus points that blink in the center or those points are actually relative to the overall frame of viewfinder (please see my question above).

Thanks JeffJS, about focusing and recomposing but my question itself is on focusing and the focus points.

theunartist, thanks I will have to start using my tamron soon as i just got it last weekend. Actually the original thread was posted long back, my new question today was a different question on focussing the eye - i posted it in the old thread because there are some diagrams i posted here earlier which will also help somebody in explaining the process.
05-23-2011, 01:12 PM   #19
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The focus point tells you that THAT part of the frame is in focus. SO, If you're focusing on a person (or trying to) and there is an object next to the person (extreme example), and the focus point for that part of the screen confirms focus, the object is in focus rather than your person. Once the camera locks focus (AF-S), it will remain there until you release the shutter button to refocus if desired.

It is for this reason, I prefer to not let the camera choose the point and just keep it on center AF. My solutions don't suit everybody and this may not even answer your question.



05-23-2011, 02:02 PM   #20
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the red square says "focus is somewhere near here". Not necessarily directly under the square, but somewhere "near" there. You can experiment for yourself by trying to focus on a black dot o a white piece of paper to see how near the red square the dot has to be in order for focus to actually be achieved.
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