[bluebronco]

Hello,

I have a K20D with a Promaster 7500EDF flash. I want to step up and buy a "wireless" system and add a flash.

Doing research, I am getting a little confused with the terms being used, i.e. slave, wireless trigger, camera trigger, pop-up trigger etc?

Looking at some recommendations from here, I have looked at some wireless systems. Why are there cables included in the kits? Isn't wireless, wireless? What is a solid flash gun to compliment the Promaster? Do I need another PTTL flash? Can I go to the local camera store and find a used flash for $20? If not, what kind of flash do I need to look for?

I know this has been beat to death in the forum, but looking at different threads gets confusing even if there are about the same topic. Please bear with me and respond with any questions you have for me?

Thanks for all the great info as always!

[hoanpham]

Hi.

Wireless system can be done easily, and for relatively cheap as well. I have approx 10 flashes, all use with radio trigger/receiver from ebay (pt04, dual hotshoe). The cables came with trigger/receiver are used to connect to flash units/strobes that do not have hotshoe.

The flash units can be expensive if you need p-ttp and build-in wireless. They are from 200usd and up. I have 2 sigma 530 super that can function with native pentax wireless protocol and more. 3 of mine are canon-ttl but also full manual, all others are manual, and they can buy used for 10usd each. Buy 3-4 for this price.

You need at least power vary (full, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 etc). Tilt, swivel and flash zoom (motorized or pull/push head) are very good to have. If not, you need other means to adjust them.

Since it will be wireless, you may need flash gel, for color correction, blend-in, colored background, special effects. I use gel 90% of my cases.

Synch voltage: you have the receiver connected to the flash, not your camera body. It should not be an issue, just remember do NOT connect flashes that have danger trigger voltage to your camera.

Now you can play with flash ratio, distance, balanced with ambient, bouncing. Use manual for consistency. The website strobist.com is a good ressource, but also videos. Books are too slow for me, but some of them are very good, more as a requirement if one becomes serious.

Next is to get flash stands, clamps, flash mount, and other light modifiers like umbrellas, softbox etc. Start slowly by get one by one and use them throughly. A flash stand, mount and a translucent umbrella is a good start. They use to sell as a kit of two.

Regarding p-ttl: I found p-ttl useful sometime, but also some inconsistency, so whenever possible, I use manual settings.

Synch speed is 1/180 for pentax, but I found 1/160 and 1/125 more consistent, especially when I have a set up with 4-5 flashes. The flash pulse will practically freeze the subject for you in most cases. For brighter ambient, use ND8 filter to balance for/with the synch speed. You may need to bundle multiple flashes if overrun the sun is the purpose.

There is always a work-around for pentax specific and flash photography general.

Just ask.

Hope this helps.

[bluebronco]

Wow! Thanks for the info. That is what I was looking for. I will post if I have any questions.

Thanks!

[GerryL]

To clear up some confusion is first to separate this into 2 categories:
You have the (1) flash trigger and (2) camera trigger.
These wireless triggers can function as, just triggering the flash wirelessly (not connected to the camera) or triggering the camera (with wires connected to the camera).

Wireless triggers on the other hand usually falls into 3 categories (I hope I'm right):
(1) "Optical" Slave flash..putting more emphasis on the "optical". The flash would have this built-in (usually the older flash) or can be attached to it. It uses a light sensor that is sensitive to the "strobe" of the flash and could not distinguish between other strobes from other flashes.
(2) Wireless "Radio" triggers which uses radio waves/signals to trigger the flash..or camera. Usually has selective frequencies to distinguish your unit from other units that might be near you, so other photogs can't trigger your flash accidentally.
(3) Wireless (usually in HSS orr High Speed Sync) that are built-into the camera itself and the flash (usually the OEM flashes). These use a different frequency (light, I think) to control and trigger these flash with this feature.

I hope I didn't make it more confusing for you.

[bluebronco]

Ok, so what is a camera trigger as opposed to the shutter button or remote control shutter button?
I think this is where I get confused on terminology?

[GerryL]

"Wireless" camera trigger, emphasis on the wireless are those devices that can trigger the camera shutter button remotely.
The camera shutter button is just what it is..a physical shutter button on the camera itself.
As with regards to the remote control for the shutter button, you have the standard IR (Infra-red) one which can trigger the camera remotely if it supports this feature (IR remote). This is usually sold as Pentax OEM remotes or Third party IR remotes.
The Pentax IR shutter remote is the "remote F".
Another one is the wired shutter remotes. These plug into the camera wired remote port. The Kx DSLR doesn't have this port.
Some wireless flash triggers also support remote camera shutter triggering with those remotes providing a cord that goes to the camera "wired remote shutter port".

[bluebronco]

As with regards to the remote control for the shutter button, you have the standard IR (Infra-red) one which can trigger the camera remotely if it supports this feature (IR remote). This is usually sold as Pentax OEM remotes or Third party IR remotes.
The Pentax IR shutter remote is the "remote F".

That is kind of what I thought. I have the OEM remote shutter release.

Thanks