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04-09-2011, 08:08 AM   #1
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Shake Reduction won't turn on..

My SR will not turn on, using K10D flip the switch, using telephoto lens 70-200mm you van tell there is a bit of camera shake in the image. Even using a tripod or a monopod.

Anyway I go to the setting and to the SR mode and it's highlighted in grey and my selector passes over it like it does not exist. Why would this be?

Andrew.

04-09-2011, 08:26 AM   #2
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Check to see if you have one of the drive modes turned on, like IR remote or timer delay or any other setting that assumes you are on a tripod. These turn off SR by default.
04-09-2011, 09:50 AM   #3
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In addition to what crewl1 says, there are a lot of things that will turn off SR, regardless of the switch (which may be one of the reasons, they've done away with the switch). Most likely, it's the drive mode. Wireless flash, will also turn it off, for instance.

04-09-2011, 12:35 PM   #4
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Drive mode is continuous, when I press info button it displays the green hand and in the viewfinder the hand is green. Under the rec. Mode menu SR is not selectable. Had difficult shooting conditions last night maybe that was the problem. I was shooting baseball in an overcast park, cold, and slightly foggy. My lines are not crisp the bats and balls are not "frozen" image wise. And some shots the lines on player uniforms are blurred. Never really had this with baseball. Most were shot at 145mm f3.5 in tav at 1/500. Ideally I wanted 1/2000 or even 1/4000 with f2.8 but EVERY shot was way underexposed. And when boosted iso to 1600 way too noisy. So if you can offer tips on that ad well however I still think SR should be selectable under Rec. Mode in menu screen. The above scenario led me to believe SR was not functioning.

Andrew

04-09-2011, 04:56 PM   #5
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Hi Andrew, and welcome. It sounds like you didn't have enough light for the lens. Can you post some of the offending shots with the exif intact so we can see exactly what happened? Without the exif data we're kinda guessing in the dark (pun intended )

NaCl(once we see the 'real stuff' we can give you real answers)H2O
04-09-2011, 04:59 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by NaClH2O Quote
Hi Andrew, and welcome. It sounds like you didn't have enough light for the lens. Can you post some of the offending shots with the exif intact so we can see exactly what happened? Without the exif data we're kinda guessing in the dark (pun intended )

NaCl(once we see the 'real stuff' we can give you real answers)H2O
I think I trashed most of them I will have a look in a few.

I will post the examples tomorrow.

Last edited by ChallengedOne; 04-09-2011 at 06:07 PM. Reason: Extra info
04-10-2011, 08:57 AM   #7
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Samples before PP

First image Test1 was a test shot pre game from photo pit next to the dugout on firstbase side. I am not sure why it is so underexposed. Image specs. Manual mode, 1/4000 F2.8 @200mm ISO 1600 AWB Cloudy sRGB.

Second image QCHit, Obviously i want the bat frozen and the ball frozen on the bat, pretty bumed i missed this shot. Image specs. Av Mode, f3.5 1/180 +/- -1.0 AFC ISO 800 AWB cloudy.

Third Image QCswing TAv Mode +/- -1.0 AFC f3.5 1/500 ISO 1600 AWB CLoudy, Pretty happy with this shot but I was still working with overcast daylight.

Fourth Image, QCopenk, TAv Mode +/- -1.0 AFC 1/350 ISO 1600 AWB CLoudy.

just a small sample of the images I took, they have not been post processed.

image 1 test1 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

image 2 QChit | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

image 3 QCSWINGJPG | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

image 4 QCSWINGJPG | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

i am not sure the links will work.
04-10-2011, 09:46 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChallengedOne Quote
I am not sure why it is so underexposed. Image specs. Manual mode, 1/4000 F2.8 @200mm ISO 1600 AWB Cloudy sRGB.
1/4000th might be your answer for that one.

QuoteQuote:
Second image QCHit, Obviously i want the bat frozen and the ball frozen on the bat, pretty bumed i missed this shot. Image specs. Av Mode, f3.5 1/180 +/- -1.0 AFC ISO 800 AWB cloudy.
Not going to freeze movement at 1/180th.

Why -1 exposure compensation on them all?

04-10-2011, 10:16 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by SpecialK Quote
1/4000th might be your answer for that one.


Not going to freeze movement at 1/180th.

Why -1 exposure compensation on them all?
Ok so I know I won't freeze movement at 1/180 but it was the only way my camera was not under exposing my shots at that time of night with those conditions. I ideally want 1/2000 or 1/4000 but as you see way underexposed. The -1 exposure comp I didn't realize it was set that way that was my bad. How can I freeze the movement under these conditions and not be underexposed.

Also the SR examples were trashed sorry.
04-11-2011, 11:00 AM   #10
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Is what I am attempting even possible?
04-11-2011, 11:29 AM   #11
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it's possible. the k10 isn't a low light monster though and at 1600 you are at it's max

you will likely have to shoot at 1600 so get a good noise removal program like topaz, it can work wonders. Second set ev compensation to 0 not -1
i would shoot 1600 shutter priority at 1/500 which should stop most baseball action (a little blur from a swinging bat actually is not always a bad thing). a faster lens (2.8 ) won't help a lot and faster than 2.8 in the big lenses is pretty much non existent. the other solution is of course a better high ISO camera. A kx may well be more capable in this situation (or a k20 or k7 or kr) at the extreme a k5 can shoot at such high iso you could be at 5.6 on the aperture and still get enough speed (i saw an ISO 20000 shot the other day that blew away my k7 at 3200 )
04-11-2011, 12:57 PM   #12
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Thanks, I agree it's not always a bad thing would just like it a little sharper. Thanks for the tips and I may just try the k7 next time.
04-11-2011, 01:18 PM   #13
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i would recommend a k7 (or k20 for that matter) for a lot of reasons. high iso would not be the top of the list on either. the kx and kr both do better there (but sacrifice a number of other features/benefits)
for what it's worth i tried a kx and returned it, didn't like the feel, and missed selective focus among other things. I still have my k10 (and ds) but now use the k7 99.9% of the time
if you wait long enough of course the k5 used will be reasonable (about 16 more months is my guess as the k3 or whatever will be out) that's my plan
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