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05-14-2011, 12:43 PM   #1
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Questions about K-x focus screen

Hi all,

Coming from older pentax models (k1000 and ME Super) I have a range of manual lens that I use on my K-x. But since the viewing screen isn't as large or bright I'm having trouble getting spot-on focus.

So now I want to change to a split-image focus screen like on the ME Super, since I'm in the UK and poor (student) I found a few from ebay. So few questions:

1. I heard you can use the same screens as K2000, K200D and some others, is this true?
2. Is changing the k-x screen as easy as the k10D (as in the yt vid)?


05-14-2011, 12:53 PM   #2
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1. Yes
2. No

PENTAX K100D / K200D / K2000D / K-m / K-x / K-r Focusing Screen Installation Instruction

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05-15-2011, 02:34 AM   #3
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Have you (or anyone else) had any experience with the ebay sellers? I know there a companies in the us that sell them for ridiculously high prices but how comparable are the screens?
05-15-2011, 03:38 AM   #4
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Check out liveview focusing on your kx before deciding to change focus screens.

05-15-2011, 06:02 AM   #5
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I go by perfectly fine with the beep.But if it's not enough for you you can always use catch in focusing...
05-15-2011, 06:25 AM   #6
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Thanks for those, but I've tried them before - I tend to do mainly street shooting so sometimes the LV is a bit too slow. I've never really given CIF much thought, I'll try it next time.
05-15-2011, 06:39 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by CloseToEureka Quote

Have you (or anyone else) had any experience with the ebay sellers? I know there a companies in the us that sell them for ridiculously high prices but how comparable are the screens?
Check out this:

I had one of these with the K-x and was a happy camper . The "TREVOR" screen I tried first was not as good, it came with a stain and the split-prism was not at the center in the up-down direction. These might need a thinner/thicker shim to be absolutely accurate (mine was pretty good with the stock shim, though). Changing the screen is not too bad (see e.g. or katzeye web site for instructions); the things to keep in mind are that these are prone to smudges, scratches and dust as these show with annoying clarity with the screen filling your view.

Handling and especially inserting/removing the screen with care goes a long way to avoiding scratches (*). For evicting dust a thorough blast from a canned air canister would seem to be the thing. One needs to guard against drops of propellant instantly drying to smudges with this though. With this a test blow against the back of your hand and keeping the can upright (and steady) after a "dry" test blow would seem to work good: you can actually feel the drops hitting your skin if they are there which would be the case e.g. after shaking the can.

(*) By pincers, by the tab while keeping the frame with the latch open with the tip of a small screwdriver, camera resting on its top side. The small screwdriver tip was also useful for opening the latch by, essentially, pulling the edge of the latch (which you cannot see properly but can "feel" with the tip) towards the front of the camera; this does not require much force but rather the correct spot and direction of applying it.

Two (three) more practicalities: the shim goes in between the screen and the body (take note which general way the shim is the first time you see it ), the ground (milky) surface of the screen should face the shim (the tab of the TRAVOR and jinfinance screens went on the other side than the original I would recalll).

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