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05-27-2011, 09:04 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
The nice thing about converted calipers is the arms are short. The commercial versions have long arms, then two cross bars to keep them from twisting, so lots of weight and bulk that your hand has to control, well away from the contact points. OK, they might fit everything but when the calipers fit, they are way easier to control.
Thanks Dave. I'm not sure why you said this.

abwb, I'm not sure what you are getting at either. Here we call them "wire ties", but what are you saying and how would I use one for removing a filter glass. I can see using one to remove a filter but not the glass inside it.

05-27-2011, 09:18 AM   #17
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sorry did not read the first post correctly howver it will allow a non destructive or non damaging gip to a fliter or simlar object. I used a wide one to hold a 2 x muliplier still while I unscrewed the first ring to strip the guts out to use as a extension tube!
05-27-2011, 09:44 AM   #18
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Actually, using a wire tie may help you grip a filter better so you can spin the retaining ring off. I've found, even when removing them from lenses, if they flex even just a little bit, it's like they are welded on.

05-27-2011, 09:46 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by photolady Quote
Thanks Dave. I'm not sure why you said this.
It was my (possibly sexist) assumption that you don't have the same hand strength as me.

On lenses, it is all about getting that ring to turn the first millimeter. The ring is usually aluminum (soft), the slots are tiny, and the tool usually doesn't fit perfectly. When the tool's center of gravity is way out there, far from where you want the force to be applied, it just makes things worse. I think the spanners that look like a big

H

with an extra crossbar are tougher to use. More hand strength is devoted to keeping the tool from skittering across the lens's front element than turning.

05-27-2011, 12:03 PM   #20
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Jeff, I hope it is not welded on.

Dave, thanks for explanation but if I can't turn it, my brother can.
05-27-2011, 05:54 PM   #21
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With the big double crossbar H tools put the lens on a cloth on the desk, hold the tool steadily in place in the slots and lean on it with steady pressure and rotate the lens clockwise with the other hand - more torque can be applied when moving the lens barrel and you can over come ring tightness even when the ring is lacqured or glued in place. Tool is much less likely to skitter.

Another tip - as you remove the glass elements place little arrows on the edge of each lens with a graphite pencil indicating direction toward the front of the lens. Memory can be dodgy once you get to the third or fourth element and to a non optometrist the curvature orientation can be non intuitive.
05-27-2011, 10:32 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Arjay Bee Quote
Another tip - as you remove the glass elements place little arrows on the edge of each lens with a graphite pencil indicating direction toward the front of the lens. Memory can be dodgy once you get to the third or fourth element and to a non optometrist the curvature orientation can be non intuitive.
Definitely useful. I actually use a fingerprint.
05-27-2011, 11:00 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Arjay Bee Quote
as you remove the glass elements place little arrows on the edge of each lens with a graphite pencil indicating direction toward the front of the lens.
How would I know which is the front of the lens if they're round?

05-28-2011, 06:08 PM   #24
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By front I mean the end that you point at your subject

Unlike eye glasses the lenses are in fact rotationally symmetrical so the orientation within the mount inside the lens is irrelevant. Just make sure the concavity or convexity is pointed in the correct direction... Would be annoying to re-assemble and not have lens focus at infinity or any other distance.
05-28-2011, 06:50 PM   #25
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Oh, I see. Thanks Arjay.
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