Kx and going to a Formula 1 race - which lens?

Run_Lola · 06-07-2011, 12:19 PM

Originally posted by Bill_R

This is the way to go except the shutter could have been slower with more of a pan. Slower would blur the wheels and give that impression of motion.
If you can get out of the stand and close to the fence then do it. Don't think you need a fast shutter speed because the cars are going fast. If you use a fast shutter speed you might end up with shots that look like the cars are parked on the track. You either need to find a spot where something is happening (your corner from the stand might be ok) like cars jumping over the kerb or wheels locking and bursts of tyre smoke and freeze that action with a fast shutter speed or use a slower shutter speed and pan. Panning blurs the background and gives the impression of motion. You don't need a fast lens.
That panning action might be something to practice first. You'll get lots of throwaways.
The support races might be the time when you can get out and get the best shots. Maybe save the main race to watch and enjoy and take a few from the stand just to show "that's Seb in the lead" and "there he is again, in the lead", "look, red bull first and then daylight" ...

I'd go for the 55-300 DA-L. 300 is a bit short for from the stand but the flexibility is there. There might be more going on around the track than on it and times and the flexibility of a zoom would be handy.

Great tips, thanks. I was aware when I went to the rugby a few weeks ago that I was spending a lot of time shooting and missing the experience of the action so I definitely think I will take only a few during the actual race.

Run_Lola · 06-07-2011, 12:20 PM

Originally posted by wizofoz

Slightly off topic,as you have plenty of good suggestions about lenses, I thouight I'd suggest you have a look here Racing Photography

Awesome, thank you for this

Run_Lola · 06-07-2011, 12:23 PM

Originally posted by Just1MoreDave

It can be very helpful to research other people's photos in advance. I found some photos from the Club Corner here. You might find some photos on Flickr or elsewhere that have focal length information included. If they used a DSLR with an APS-C sensor, that's the same framing and image size you'll get.

You can get some practice before the race starts with preliminary events and parade laps. That should help you set exposures in advance and practice panning.

One frequent issue with locations like this is the fence. The autofocus will see the nice steady fence instead of the fast-moving race car, and lock on to the wrong thing. Since the fence is extensive, you can't avoid it by selecting another AF point. Some sort of manual focus is the best option. The racing line won't move a lot so you can pick the best point in advance, focus, turn off AF, then fire when the car gets to the right spot.

If I switch my camera to manual focus mode, will the autofocus lens allow me to work manually? Or do I need a manual focus lens? Thanks for the link, very helpful.

Run_Lola · 06-07-2011, 12:25 PM

Originally posted by DaveHolmes

SRSmicrosystems here in the UK have a really good reputation as pentax dealers and offer a lens rental service... I believe that delivery and collection are included in the package offered...

I will definitely be checking them out as you're the second person to have recommended them. Thank you.

**Just1MoreDave** · 06-07-2011, 09:21 PM

Originally posted by Run_Lola

If I switch my camera to manual focus mode, will the autofocus lens allow me to work manually? Or do I need a manual focus lens? Thanks for the link, very helpful.

First, you could try some practice shots and see what your camera does. I might be wrong about the fence.

There's a couple of ways to adjust if AF has a problem. You can choose the one that works best for you.

One is a switch on the front of the camera, on the side opposite the shutter button, on the side of the lens mount. You can slide that to MF, and focus the lens manually by turning its focus ring.

Another way is to use a button on the camera to turn AF on and off. On the K-x, you'll have to change a Custom Setting on page 2, item 10. You can choose the normal way your camera works, Enable AF1, or have your camera only auto-focus when you press the AF button, or have the AF button cancel AF when you're holding the button.

In either case, the viewfinder will display MF to tell you that you have to focus manually. You should wait for that indication before turning the focus ring on the lens. Because the cars are going to be zipping by, probably too fast to focus on the fly, focus on a spot before the cars get there, then hit the shutter when the car arrives. This technique might make the Cancel AF option a little trickier, as you will have to be sure you are always holding the right buttons to keep the camera from refocusing away from your chosen point.

Pentax has a lens feature called Quick-shift Focus that allows you to turn the focus ring at any time to adjust focus, without a lot of button-pressing. They left it off all of the DA-L lenses, which is a little annoying. I think all the DA lenses have it except the DA 18-250, which is discontinued.

rfg · 06-08-2011, 12:10 AM

Before you get too carried away with a long lens, check that the Silverstone event doesn't have stupid restrictions like are common here in Australia, eg no telephoto lens over 200 or 300mm. You can read some examples here: http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1405055

justinr · 06-08-2011, 12:46 AM

Originally posted by rfg

Before you get too carried away with a long lens, check that the Silverstone event doesn't have stupid restrictions like are common here in Australia, eg no telephoto lens over 200 or 300mm. You can read some examples here: http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1405055

Or any cameras at all, heck you might be one of those terrorist thingies bent on world domination! :-)

Last edited by justinr; 06-08-2011 at 01:03 AM.

**Bill_R** · 06-08-2011, 01:59 AM

Originally posted by rfg

Before you get too carried away with a long lens, check that the Silverstone event doesn't have stupid restrictions like are common here in Australia, eg no telephoto lens over 200 or 300mm. You can read some examples here: http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1405055

Silverstone is fine. Commercial use not allowed. http://www.silverstone.co.uk/Global/pdf/terms-and-conditions/SILVERSTONE%202...CONDITIONS.pdf

twitch · 06-08-2011, 02:24 AM

Originally posted by rfg

Before you get too carried away with a long lens, check that the Silverstone event doesn't have stupid restrictions like are common here in Australia, eg no telephoto lens over 200 or 300mm. You can read some examples here: http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1405055

The rules have since changed for Australia, now you can bring in whatever lens you like so long as the images are not for commercial use.

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06-07-2011, 12:19 PM	#31
Run_Lola New Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Bristol Posts: 16 Original Poster	Originally posted by Bill_R This is the way to go except the shutter could have been slower with more of a pan. Slower would blur the wheels and give that impression of motion. If you can get out of the stand and close to the fence then do it. Don't think you need a fast shutter speed because the cars are going fast. If you use a fast shutter speed you might end up with shots that look like the cars are parked on the track. You either need to find a spot where something is happening (your corner from the stand might be ok) like cars jumping over the kerb or wheels locking and bursts of tyre smoke and freeze that action with a fast shutter speed or use a slower shutter speed and pan. Panning blurs the background and gives the impression of motion. You don't need a fast lens. That panning action might be something to practice first. You'll get lots of throwaways. The support races might be the time when you can get out and get the best shots. Maybe save the main race to watch and enjoy and take a few from the stand just to show "that's Seb in the lead" and "there he is again, in the lead", "look, red bull first and then daylight" ... I'd go for the 55-300 DA-L. 300 is a bit short for from the stand but the flexibility is there. There might be more going on around the track than on it and times and the flexibility of a zoom would be handy. Great tips, thanks. I was aware when I went to the rugby a few weeks ago that I was spending a lot of time shooting and missing the experience of the action so I definitely think I will take only a few during the actual race.

06-07-2011, 12:20 PM	#32
Run_Lola New Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Bristol Posts: 16 Original Poster	Originally posted by wizofoz Slightly off topic,as you have plenty of good suggestions about lenses, I thouight I'd suggest you have a look here Racing Photography Awesome, thank you for this

06-07-2011, 12:23 PM	#33
Run_Lola New Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Bristol Posts: 16 Original Poster	Originally posted by Just1MoreDave It can be very helpful to research other people's photos in advance. I found some photos from the Club Corner here. You might find some photos on Flickr or elsewhere that have focal length information included. If they used a DSLR with an APS-C sensor, that's the same framing and image size you'll get. You can get some practice before the race starts with preliminary events and parade laps. That should help you set exposures in advance and practice panning. One frequent issue with locations like this is the fence. The autofocus will see the nice steady fence instead of the fast-moving race car, and lock on to the wrong thing. Since the fence is extensive, you can't avoid it by selecting another AF point. Some sort of manual focus is the best option. The racing line won't move a lot so you can pick the best point in advance, focus, turn off AF, then fire when the car gets to the right spot. If I switch my camera to manual focus mode, will the autofocus lens allow me to work manually? Or do I need a manual focus lens? Thanks for the link, very helpful.

06-07-2011, 12:25 PM	#34
Run_Lola New Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Bristol Posts: 16 Original Poster	Originally posted by DaveHolmes SRSmicrosystems here in the UK have a really good reputation as pentax dealers and offer a lens rental service... I believe that delivery and collection are included in the package offered... I will definitely be checking them out as you're the second person to have recommended them. Thank you.

06-07-2011, 09:21 PM	#35
Just1MoreDave Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Aurora, CO Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,340	Originally posted by Run_Lola If I switch my camera to manual focus mode, will the autofocus lens allow me to work manually? Or do I need a manual focus lens? Thanks for the link, very helpful. First, you could try some practice shots and see what your camera does. I might be wrong about the fence. There's a couple of ways to adjust if AF has a problem. You can choose the one that works best for you. One is a switch on the front of the camera, on the side opposite the shutter button, on the side of the lens mount. You can slide that to MF, and focus the lens manually by turning its focus ring. Another way is to use a button on the camera to turn AF on and off. On the K-x, you'll have to change a Custom Setting on page 2, item 10. You can choose the normal way your camera works, Enable AF1, or have your camera only auto-focus when you press the AF button, or have the AF button cancel AF when you're holding the button. In either case, the viewfinder will display MF to tell you that you have to focus manually. You should wait for that indication before turning the focus ring on the lens. Because the cars are going to be zipping by, probably too fast to focus on the fly, focus on a spot before the cars get there, then hit the shutter when the car arrives. This technique might make the Cancel AF option a little trickier, as you will have to be sure you are always holding the right buttons to keep the camera from refocusing away from your chosen point. Pentax has a lens feature called Quick-shift Focus that allows you to turn the focus ring at any time to adjust focus, without a lot of button-pressing. They left it off all of the DA-L lenses, which is a little annoying. I think all the DA lenses have it except the DA 18-250, which is discontinued.

06-08-2011, 12:10 AM	#36
rfg Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Sydney Posts: 139	Before you get too carried away with a long lens, check that the Silverstone event doesn't have stupid restrictions like are common here in Australia, eg no telephoto lens over 200 or 300mm. You can read some examples here: http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1405055

06-08-2011, 12:46 AM	#37
justinr Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tipperary Photos: Gallery Posts: 394	Originally posted by rfg Before you get too carried away with a long lens, check that the Silverstone event doesn't have stupid restrictions like are common here in Australia, eg no telephoto lens over 200 or 300mm. You can read some examples here: http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1405055 Or any cameras at all, heck you might be one of those terrorist thingies bent on world domination! :-) Last edited by justinr; 06-08-2011 at 01:03 AM.

06-08-2011, 01:59 AM	#38
Bill_R Site Supporter Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 262	Originally posted by rfg Before you get too carried away with a long lens, check that the Silverstone event doesn't have stupid restrictions like are common here in Australia, eg no telephoto lens over 200 or 300mm. You can read some examples here: http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1405055 Silverstone is fine. Commercial use not allowed. http://www.silverstone.co.uk/Global/pdf/terms-and-conditions/SILVERSTONE%202...CONDITIONS.pdf

06-08-2011, 02:24 AM	#39
twitch Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 4,571	Originally posted by rfg Before you get too carried away with a long lens, check that the Silverstone event doesn't have stupid restrictions like are common here in Australia, eg no telephoto lens over 200 or 300mm. You can read some examples here: http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1405055 The rules have since changed for Australia, now you can bring in whatever lens you like so long as the images are not for commercial use.