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07-13-2011, 07:08 PM   #16
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Alright - the FOIL HACK works to enable CIF if your body is having issues.

Here is the thing though, you want to make sure your lens has the MF switch on the lens or you will be manual focusing with the AF motor engaged and you may wear some of the AF gears out in the lens and (or) the body...



I DO NOT RECOMMEND DOING THIS IF YOUR LENS DOES NOT HAVE THE SWITCH TO DISENGAGE THE AF DRIVE!!!


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07-13-2011, 07:08 PM   #17
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Its not so much a switch, the collar (focus ring) slides back and forth. Back being mf forward being af. This only serves to "turn off" the focus ring spin. When the camera is in af, slide the ring forward and it wont spin, when the camera is in mf, slide it back to engage the focus ring
07-13-2011, 07:17 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by SlickYamaha Quote
Its not so much a switch, the collar (focus ring) slides back and forth. Back being mf forward being af. This only serves to "turn off" the focus ring spin. When the camera is in af, slide the ring forward and it wont spin, when the camera is in mf, slide it back to engage the focus ring
Ok, still the same concept

Anyways, put the foil over the contacts, attach the lens - the body will think you have a full manual lens and will ask for focal input. Here is the thing though, you will need to have an "Aperture Ring" on the lens to control the aperture, "OR", you will have to get fancy with the foil. The aperture contact is (if I am not mistaken) the "Second" contact "Down" when looking at the lens mount side with the aperture lever at top - foil the other contacts and leave that one open (FYI: I have not tried this before, the aperture contact thing that is)...



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07-13-2011, 07:27 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by SlickYamaha Quote
Its not so much a switch, the collar (focus ring) slides back and forth. Back being mf forward being af. This only serves to "turn off" the focus ring spin. When the camera is in af, slide the ring forward and it wont spin, when the camera is in mf, slide it back to engage the focus ring
Then I misunderstood what moving the focus ring back and fourth on the tamron does. I found a YT video reviewing the lens and I thought you could completely turn off AF on the lens. If you cannot keep the lens from auto focusing then you cannot easily use catch in focus with it. With my FA* lenses, moving the focus ring backward or forward, simply disengages the AF mechanism in the lens (when on MF). Seems like kind of a half assed feature on the Tamron if it doesn't work the same way.

Though there is a way but it's a bit of a pain. If you hold the lens release button (I use the Johnny Cash finger, google it) while pressing the shutter release, you can turn the focus ring as a manual focus. The obvious problem and annoyance with that, the AF motor still spins like crazy and it's more of a balancing act than you want to play with.



07-13-2011, 07:35 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
The obvious problem and annoyance with that, the AF motor still spins like crazy and it's more of a balancing act than you want to play with.
The "FOIL HACK" stop this as it tricks the body into thinking the lens is a manual lens and thus does not spin the AF linkage...



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07-13-2011, 07:50 PM   #21
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NOTE: This was done with a Sigma lens, should be the same for the Tammy.

See the image below - foil those three contacts, the body will be tricked into thinking you have a Manual Focus lens with Aperture Control (A series) attached to the body - this will give you CIF on the problem lens (remember to disengage the lens AF)...
Attached Images
 
07-13-2011, 08:36 PM   #22
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while all this C.I.F. talk is interesting, I suggest you use the lens as it was intended and see how you go.... it just may work!
07-14-2011, 12:49 AM   #23
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Kiss

QuoteOriginally posted by HGMonaro Quote
while all this C.I.F. talk is interesting, I suggest you use the lens as it was intended and see how you go.... it just may work!
I agree, thread seems to have been diverted from OP's original request. I suggest you use AFC, centre weighted metering, AV exposure mode, and set auto ISO to suit the conditions on the day. This will give you a good baseline to work from. Focussing and composing Birds-in-Flight is a skill to be learned, but OP needs reliable results first time out. Keep it Simple.

07-14-2011, 03:14 AM   #24
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Thanks for all the suggestions, So, should I even bother with a flash, or just skip it for this trip?
07-14-2011, 05:01 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by SlickYamaha Quote
Thanks for all the suggestions, So, should I even bother with a flash, or just skip it for this trip?
It cant hurt to take one with you, but have a practice before you go. Set up some dummy situations and see what you can achieve. If your confidence wont stretch that far, forget it. There's another day tomorrow.
07-14-2011, 09:36 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by HGMonaro Quote
while all this C.I.F. talk is interesting, I suggest you use the lens as it was intended and see how you go
Yes, and take a bullhorn to tell the birds to stay still while you shoot them, that way they won't fly off when they here the autofocus sound of the lens 75 yards away.

That is why CIF was suggested in the first place (by Jeff I believe). With a 200mm lens, you will have to get pretty close to get some good shots....




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07-14-2011, 10:36 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by joe.penn Quote
Yes, and take a bullhorn to tell the birds to stay still while you shoot them, that way they won't fly off when they here the autofocus sound of the lens 75 yards away.

That is why CIF was suggested in the first place (by Jeff I believe). With a 200mm lens, you will have to get pretty close to get some good shots....




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That's part of it.. When I even bring the camera up to look through the viewfinder, I'm as quiet as I can be to try and Sneak a photo. I don't usually even get the chance to see the animal/insect through the viewfinder because he's left the scene. Noise doesn't help either. If my idea for the AF/MF of the tamron isn't going to work, I would still suggest AF-S and continuous shooting (probably low so shots aren't lost to writing times). The camera will still only take a photo if focus is detected.

07-14-2011, 12:12 PM   #28
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I dont think noise/proximity will be a huge issue. These birds are being tagged, so im thinking we are going to be rather close. (No idea how he is going to do it,) but im thinking these birds are almost "trained" as in they are use to humans, and probably eat out of his hand (literally)
07-14-2011, 12:15 PM   #29
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One other thought that crossed my mind is potentially using a decent manual focus TC along with the Tamron 70-200/2.8. You'd get the benefit of getting a bit closer and also being able to use CIF as the AF link would be decoupled from the body.
07-14-2011, 03:26 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by dgaies Quote
One other thought that crossed my mind is potentially using a decent manual focus TC along with the Tamron 70-200/2.8. You'd get the benefit of getting a bit closer and also being able to use CIF as the AF link would be decoupled from the body.
I do have a TC, but it is AF as well. DOH.
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