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07-21-2011, 02:03 PM   #16
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Replacing the shims is not too difficult. If you replace your focus screen, you're all the way there so it's just one more step further.

Be sure to work on a clean surface (I use a fresh sheet of wax paper to keep dust and grit from getting into the parts).

Be sure to have bright lighting so that you can see what you're doing. I'll use an LED flashlight to view inside the camera.

I use a decent pair of tweezers to grab the focus screen. I'll also use a jeweler's screwdriver which I have on hand for adjusting the screws on my eyeglasses. You could even use a toothpick if you were worried about scratches. All you need is a long, thin device to reach into the body to move the shims.

This is also a good time to use your blower bulb to get rid of extra dust inside the camera. Do this before you take anything else apart.

FWIW, I also have a slight tilt on my K10D bodies. It's only enough to bother me when I'm trying to be exact. I can correct baseline changes in post process if necessary.

07-21-2011, 07:21 PM   #17
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Tilt images & AF errors on many K10Ds imply that something is wrong with mirror's squareness relative to focus screen & AF sensor. This makes the three critical distances not the same. The three distances are: 1) from object to focus screen, 2) from object to CCD sensor, 3) from object to AF sensor. Ideally, they should be equal. A slight shift of mirror angle can ruin this condition.

Aparently, Pentax has fixed the problem since K20D.

Last edited by hyyz; 07-21-2011 at 07:26 PM.

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