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08-16-2011, 10:19 PM   #16
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unless you have a lens that's designed to do so, you should avoid manually focusing while in AF mode. Lenses such as pentax lenses with Quick-Shift and various sigma HSM lenses are capable of manual focus while in AF mode.

08-16-2011, 10:27 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by adpo Quote
unless you have a lens that's designed to do so, you should avoid manually focusing while in AF mode. Lenses such as pentax lenses with Quick-Shift and various sigma HSM lenses are capable of manual focus while in AF mode.
I'm talking about the stock lens from the kit. plus I got some old fashioned lens that only manual focus, is it okay to manually focus them if I'm in AF mode?
08-16-2011, 11:15 PM   #18
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If it makes a grinding noise, or you feel any resistance when trying to turn the focusing ring, you need to switch to MF. You will break your lens, it will stop auto focusing properly at all if you keep grinding it.

The kit lens(es) Must be manually focused in MF mode, always.

Manual focus lenses don't have the AF mechanism, so it doesn't matter where the switch is. You'll notice that old MF lenses don't grind, regardless of the setting. That said, you should get in the habit of using MF for them too, else you'll make mistakes when you switch back to an AF lens.
08-17-2011, 12:03 AM   #19
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There are a few versions of the 18-55: The cheapest one comes as a kit with the K-r and K-x: it has no clutch focus (quick shift) and no lens hood and a plastic mount. The one that comes with the K-5 and K-7, or bought separately, has full time manual focus.

As pointed out before...You can only manual focus the cheaper kit lens by actually selecting the MF setting. If the focus doesn't want to turn freely, then stop turning or you'll break the camera.

All of this is covered in the manual....
http://www.pentax.jp/english/support/man-pdf/k-x.pdf
see page 112 for focusing options and 150 for recording movies.

08-17-2011, 06:35 AM   #20
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The kit 18-55 that came with my now old K100 (version I ), does have the clutch (its called "Quick Shift"). For such an inexpensive lens, this feature is wonderful to have. With the camera body set to auto focus - the lens auto focuses and then you can manually turn the focus ring on the lens and refocus at will. Now with a lens with out the auto focus clutch, this is impossible with out breaking the lens or first switch to manual focus.

These early kit lenses (version I) are reasonably inexpensive at $40 to $50 (and I have read places where they can go for less). The AL version of the lens is missing the clutch. I have no idea about the WR version. The II version I believe has the clutch, but not positive either (the ver II link below indicates it does have the Quick Shift feature). Here are some links from the Pentax lens database (apparently there is no review of the version I lens in the database)....YMMV

08-17-2011, 06:54 AM   #21
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I got one of these lens hoods and it works fine, price is great too.
PH-RBA 52mm Lens Hood for Pentax 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL BF - eBay (item 260776557551 end time Aug-27-11 00:19:38 PDT)
08-17-2011, 08:35 AM   #22
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My tip for producing better photos is to get some critique on what you are producing. It's easy to focus on Image Quality in various ways, but if the Image Content isn't good you still don't have a good photo.

One place on the Internet is at Flickr:
Flickr: Photography Critique

Unlike most Flickr groups there is serious critiquing there, rather than just 'great capture' and similar meaningless phrases.

You could also look for a camera club - you say nothing about where you live so I have no idea if you might find one.

I agree with sticking with the kit lens for the time being, and suggest you investigate Av and Tv modes.

However you need to understand the relationship between ISO, aperture and shutter speed to use either effectively. It is also very helpful to understand how to use the histogram on the back of the camera when trying to get the right exposure for a tricky subject. This might help, but Google will turn up lots of other sites that might also:
A Beginner's Guide to Simple Photography Concepts: ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed - Tutorials


You also need to understand the relationship between aperture, focal length and depth of focus. For this there is a great website:
Hyperfocal Distance and Depth of Field Calculator - DOFMaster

But, and I stress but, technique isn't the be-all and end-all. Lots of people here advocate manual exposure control by which I presume they mean completely manual. There is no need to do that to get wonderful photos, nor (usually) is there any need for manual focusing or all the other geeky things you can do. The difficulty is it's easier to explain geeky technical things than arty compositional things.
08-17-2011, 11:31 AM   #23
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When I manually focus in AF mode, it doesn't grind, it's just a bit louder then focusing in MF mode.


What about lens that only manually focus, can I manually focus them in auto focus mode?

08-17-2011, 12:08 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by pentaxian44 Quote
When I manually focus in AF mode, it doesn't grind, it's just a bit louder then focusing in MF mode.
You've probably already done damage to it. Unless you buy a lens that specifically supports this, it's something you never ever do.

QuoteOriginally posted by pentaxian44 Quote
What about lens that only manually focus, can I manually focus them in auto focus mode?
I answered this above. There is no advantage to doing this, at all. It will make you more prone to mistakes with your AF lenses, but it won't hurt the manual lens.
08-17-2011, 12:52 PM   #25
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Alright, well everything is working fine so no damage has been done. I guess I'll only manually focus in MF now.
08-17-2011, 07:09 PM   #26
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No one (that I saw) explained why a lens hood is a good idea. I thought for years they were just for showing off, and I never had one anyway. But they do have a purpose: to control stray light from getting into the lens and ruining your photos. Lenses have many individual elements of glass. Each piece is coated to control stray light (called flare), but coatings aren't perfect. When you have a strong light source like the sun, it can overwhelm the coatings.

All these examples include the light source in the frame, so a hood would not help. But you will see the same effect with the source out of the frame too, though it's not as dramatic.

Sometimes you'll get spots like this:



The worst is called veiling flare, which spreads across the frame and reduces contrast over a wide area. The left side of this image should be mostly black.



Sometimes the flare makes a photo interesting:



Hoods never hurt and can often help. I've seen side-by-side tests that show better contrast and sharpness, even in ordinary light. They also provide some protection against bumps and possibly dog noses.
08-18-2011, 01:30 PM   #27
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Awesome, I'll pick one up. No more AF for me now, it's all manual.
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