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09-18-2011, 01:07 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by ripit Quote
I think there must be lots of food for them to steal. I have tried leaving food and all it attracted was ants
I haven't met a squirrel or chipmunk yet that could resist a small pile of sunflower seeds, and they definitely won't attract ants. Unsalted is best of course.

09-18-2011, 04:14 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Philoslothical Quote
I haven't met a squirrel or chipmunk yet that could resist a small pile of sunflower seeds, and they definitely won't attract ants. Unsalted is best of course.
I would tend to agree, my biggest problem at the feeder is keeping the squirrels away. They literally ate my last feeder
09-18-2011, 06:26 AM   #18
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Maybe I'll try a feeder with some seeds rather than just putting out something.
09-18-2011, 09:17 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wheatfield Quote
I go out and take pictures.
Most of the time, this proves the equipment is good enough.
I needed some experience with the technical type of testing, more experience looking for details in a shot, and probably just more photography experience, before I got that to work at all. I guess my technical tests took some time to be usable as well, but it seemed easier to address problems, like "don't trip over the tripod next time".

It's also very easy to collect say a dozen old 28mm lenses that no one knows a lot about. Technical testing can more quickly identify two or three lenses you'd want to take time to shoot with. Keeping a dozen lenses straight in normal shooting is difficult. Of course, one solution is to not buy a dozen lenses to start with.

09-18-2011, 09:30 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
It's also very easy to collect say a dozen old 28mm lenses that no one knows a lot about. ... Of course, one solution is to not buy a dozen lenses to start with.
It's also easy to collect a couple dozen 28's, and then sell a quarter of them for various reasons, and still have an abundance of optical confusion. I still have a problem sorting-through the shorter lenses. Teles are easy for me to screen-out the dogs. Wides... well, they're an ongoing project. Shots of test charts just aren't indicative enough, IMHO.

I have a conceptual test target in mind that I haven't constructed yet. Think of a wide frame like the edges of a conventional test chart, the rest cut away. In the middle, a rounded object, maybe a mannikin's head. In the background, a patterned surface. A test shot would show edge sharpness, center pop, and bokeh, all at once.
09-18-2011, 09:38 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
I have a conceptual test target in mind that I haven't constructed yet. Think of a wide frame like the edges of a conventional test chart, the rest cut away. In the middle, a rounded object, maybe a mannikin's head. In the background, a patterned surface. A test shot would show edge sharpness, center pop, and bokeh, all at once.
That actually sounds like a pretty good idea.
QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
Of course, one solution is to not buy a dozen lenses to start with.
Better be careful, you are angering the LBA gods with such blasphemous suggestions!!!! Last person I heard talk like that came home and his wife had ebayed all his lenses (with the excuse "well you said you had to many"). He who dies with the most toys wins, so it has been written, and so it shall be done.....
09-19-2011, 05:06 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
------
I have a conceptual test target in mind that I haven't constructed yet. Think of a wide frame like the edges of a conventional test chart, the rest cut away. In the middle, a rounded object, maybe a mannikin's head. In the background, a patterned surface. A test shot would show edge sharpness, center pop, and bokeh, all at once.
I know, this isn't exactly what you have in mind, but here's what I have done: I took the test chart that I have shown in my previous post and which has been designed for a 4 x 6 inch print; with that I made an A3 size poster for edge-to-edge comparisons of lenses of equal focal lengths:
Attached Images
 

Last edited by Stone G.; 09-19-2011 at 05:08 AM. Reason: misspelling
09-19-2011, 05:39 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Stone G. Quote
.. with that I made an A3 size poster for edge-to-edge comparisons of lenses of equal focal lengths:
And I'll repeat that while this may show how a lens performs with a flat subject field, most of us (hopefully) don't spend our time shooting walls and bookcases. Unless we're paid to.

Where such a test is very useful is for a QC check, to see if the lens is off-center. If one edge or corner is sharp and the rest are soft, or vice-versa, THAT is indicative of a bad copy. Time to return it for a refund.

If all margins are equivalent, we're back to square one: Do we like the lens? Does it do what we want? Do we need edge-to-edge sharpness, and can we live with a flatter image? Do we want a dimensional center, and fock the margins? Is vignetting hip?

09-19-2011, 08:57 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
If all margins are equivalent, we're back to square one: Do we like the lens? Does it do what we want? Do we need edge-to-edge sharpness, and can we live with a flatter image? Do we want a dimensional center, and fock the margins? Is vignetting hip?
While I'm curious about which lenses will perform better, it more about priority of real testing to me. I didn't own any manual focus lenses until maybe 5 months ago. I now have probably 3 dozen and the LBA continues (I have another on the way though it it auto focus). Plenty have never been shot with. The lenses that perform better just get first shot at real field use (and the dogs won't get field testing when it is important to get good shots). Eventually they will all get used and tried out but with the limited time I have, it will take a while.

Of course it can expose issues too like you said. One of the vivitars that has high potential for real use because it is the fastest wide zoom I have, seems to be out of focus when the camera indicates it is in focus. I'll have to test a little more, see if I can figure out what is happening (is it at all distances and ranges or just close up). Maybe it's something I can work around. I really need to get a diopter adjuster for my viewfinder though so I can more accurately manual focus with out having to rely on the camera to indicate focus.

Last edited by ripit; 09-19-2011 at 09:03 AM.
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