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09-22-2011, 01:04 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by New Englander Quote
Went and took pics using AF Fine adjustment all the way from -10 to +10.
All the pics looked the same regardless of where I set the auto focus adjustment.
QuoteOriginally posted by New Englander Quote
Took the AF lens off and put on my old Tokina 35-200 that was on my ME Super (manual focus).
Same results.
Double and triple check your diopter adjustment on the viewfinder. In fact, note where it is now, and then start all the way to the left, taking a shot, incrementing, until hopefully you find where it should be for your eye. I'm thinking that if your diopter is off, you may be using the AF adjustment to push it farther out of focus. If the diopter does turn out to be an issue, perhaps it's more of one outside due to the longer distances involved.

I'm really just guessing though, based on the things that your problem can't/shouldn't be.

09-22-2011, 02:06 AM   #17
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Have you calibrated your view finder, something that needs to be done on any DSLR?

Place your camera, preferably on a tripod , square onto any flat surface with detail, a well lit brick wall is perfect.

Half press the shutter or press the AF button and the camera will auto focus.

Without moving anything look through the viewfinder, is that sharp?

If not adjust the dioptre slider on the top of the viewfinder till it it is.

Doing this will mean that when your camera is in focus, you see a sharp image too.

Take any 'protection filters' off, never used them in 50 years since one shattered and scratched the lens coating of my new 50mm back in the 1960's. Flare, front/rear focus issues, a filter will exacerbate them all. The best mechanical protection is to use the lens hood.

Chris
09-22-2011, 06:06 AM   #18
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I'm not an expert, but i think F25 and F11 shows diffraction, and makes a little "defocused"
I mean...its usually not a good idea to use F25 and 1/50 shutter...
09-22-2011, 06:13 AM   #19
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Most of these were done on "auto" I think.

09-22-2011, 10:26 AM   #20
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Is this what the photos look like straight out of the camera ?

The examples are scaled and quite compressed by some software - probably by Picasa, judging from the compression signatures. I suspect that you'd get more help from here if you could post some 'as taken' shots with the EXIFs intact.
09-22-2011, 11:11 AM   #21
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Dunno how to do that.
Yes, downloaded these into Picasa.
Is is how they looked straight out of the camera?
???
I download them to my computer directly from the camera into Picasa / My pictures...
and also using the sd card directly to the iPad.
This is the blurriness I am noticing.
Took the sd card directly to camera store and had some pics printed out to see if there
was a difference and no, a slight out of focus on them too.
Shooting in jpeg *** (3 star) format.
09-22-2011, 11:41 AM   #22
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Plug your camera or SD card reader into your pc. Your file manager/explorer should open - if not, open it and go to the photos on your card/camera. Then copy/paste the photos into a new folder on your pc - call it "photos from camera" or something. Don't edit or resize the photos, and upload them here to the forums, then we can evaluate them better.

09-22-2011, 12:29 PM   #23
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These all look over exposed and therefore lacking in contrast to me. Since you say you have an ME Super, I'll assume you know How to focus a lens and that you know a few things about exposure. If you don't, study up on that and your results will improve dramatically. Do note though that if that Tokina is a M type lens (no A setting), it will only work in M mode on your camera. Everywhere else it will shoot wide open regardless of where you set the aperture ring (except A).

09-22-2011, 12:32 PM   #24
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Does it mean that if the diopter is out of focus the AF lens will not focus correctly or just will 'appear' out of focus to
eye thru the viewfinder...
09-22-2011, 12:32 PM   #25
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As everyone keeps saying, you need topost pictures to get help. But I'll guess you simply aren't familiar with DOF (depth of field - Google it) and are expecting the entire picture picture to be in focus, rather thn just the specific plane where the camera focused.
09-22-2011, 12:35 PM   #26
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uploading pics now. I have an OLD desktop and is wicked slow...
09-22-2011, 12:37 PM   #27
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Tokina lens is an "A" lens. Always used auto function on it (the camera) and it worked great and had great results.
09-22-2011, 12:37 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by paulh Quote
Don't edit or resize the photos, and upload them here to the forums, then we can evaluate them better.
New Englander will hit the file size limit if he/she uploads the originals here
09-22-2011, 12:42 PM   #29
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that's what i am thinking. says size limit 1024x700 and mine are 4288x2848
09-22-2011, 12:47 PM   #30
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Paul, will give that a go. Thanks for your persistance and patience...
had to delete the past posting with the pics as it wouldn't allow me to repost same pics.
Says max size is 1024x700. Mine show (having directly downloaded in a Kr file in 'my pics') a size of 4288x2848
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