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12-20-2011, 05:49 AM   #61
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nuff Quote
I would say, before you add any meters or filters. Learn how to use the camera, learn it's quirks and get comfortable with it and photography. Next step would be to get a software package to develop RAW files. Do 1 step at a time and don't get overwhelmed with everything. Like it has been mentioned, most software packages come with 30 day evaluation copy. Download 1 at a time, experiment with it for 30 days and see if you like it.

I've chose Lightroom since it was the most intuitive to me, it had the features that I wanted and there's large support group. My Dad who's 67 picked up and learned lightroom in minutes. All I had to do was show him more advance features.
QuoteOriginally posted by SpecialK Quote
The Pentax software has a pretty well-deserved reputation as being buggy, user-unfriendly, and having a bad interface. Some people like the newer (4.30+ version).

I used the early version for 18 months, and still do for file handling duties. For converting raw files, I went to Elements 6 (and now 9) some time ago for the ease of use, and some tools (easier horizon-leveling tool, spot-healing brush) that were missing in the Pentax package.
Excuse me for beeing repetitious (I made the same question a couple of posts ago), but it is extremely important to me. Does anybody knows if Lightroom 3 has any kind of software protection that prevents its use on other country then the one it was bought? (A sort of region restriction, like DVDs or Blurays). I explain: LR3 price in adobe´s store here in brazil: US$ 582(!!!!!!). LR3 price at BH US$ 180. I have relatives living in the USA that could bring or send it to me and better: I have a close friend that is going to NY for christmas! She already said she can bring it for me. From what all you guys says, this would the perfect program to me: only 1 program to learn, raw processing capability (more than enough for my current skills!), user friendly, etc, but there is a HUGE difference between 180 to 582 US$!!! Furher if one takes into account that we are not paid in dollars here... Our money (real) has half the value of a dolar!).
Please, any opinion about this, will be hugely helpfull, so that I can ask my friend to bring the LR3 to me.

12-20-2011, 06:12 AM   #62
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AFAIK there are no country restrictions on software like this, like DVDs have (which incidentally, is easily circumvented anyway). You will not receive official support from Adobe though, or you'll have to lie to get it at least (if you ever need it, which is unlikely). Worst case scenario, if something unforeseen should happen, is you apply a crack to your legally purchased software to prevent the company from scamming you and to make it work as intended. Not a big deal.
12-20-2011, 12:33 PM   #63
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I doubt the B&H version will be the exactly same one that's $600. There is Photoshop and Photoshop Extended, and also upgrade and initial purchase versions. If you can quality as a student that's the way to buy it - the Adobe student licences are a real steal.
12-20-2011, 07:08 PM   #64
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rogertmac Quote
Jatrax,
Does Lightroom (or Picasa 3) have an option that automatically separates the jpegs from the raw photos in any given folder?
Yes it does, you can limit your view to a given file type. It has all sorts of nifty database management tools, you can select all the raw photos in a folder that were taken at iso 200 with flash if you wanted.

In my opinion there's really no reason to bother transferring the jpegs to the computer if you're going to use lightroom to process the raw files, unless you really like the k5's jpeg processing or you are in a real rush to have the jpegs (like need them immediately).

QuoteOriginally posted by Rogertmac Quote
Do you delete the raw file after creating the final JPEG image? I mean, it is advisable to make backups of the original raw arquive, the post processed JPEG photo or both?
Don't delete the raw. With lightroom I just keep a whack of raw files around. When I need a jpeg or tiff for something (to send to a print lab, or email) I use lightroom to export what I need. Raw files and the lightroom catalogue are included in my backups. You may want to go back and reprocess the raw file in a few years, raw developing tools (and hopefully our skill at using them) are constantly evolving so even a program update might make you want to revisit an old raw file.

QuoteOriginally posted by Rogertmac Quote
Another doubt: when one makes any modification or delete a photo using Lightroom (or Picasa),it will be modified or deleted at the original folder, or it will be preserved "at the origin" and be altered/deleted only at the "catalog" created by the program?
The original raw or jpeg or whatever type of image file you are working with in lightroom isn't altered.


Lightroom has a free trial, you should give it a whirl and see if it is right for you. It goes on sale for $150 at bandh a few times per year if you are patient. I don't see any reason why the US version wouldn't work for you. You can always contact Adobe if you are concerned. AFAIK you only need the licence key from the box, so your friend wouldn't even have to physically get it to you if you've already downloaded and installed the trial version (it's identical to the retail version, you'd just be upgrading your licence).


QuoteOriginally posted by cats_five:
I doubt the B&H version will be the exactly same one that's $600. There is Photoshop and Photoshop Extended, and also upgrade and initial purchase versions. If you can quality as a student that's the way to buy it - the Adobe student licences are a real steal.
I would expect it to be the same, there's only one version of lightroom that I'm away of (I may have missed something though). Apparently pricing in Brazil is even worse than in Canada, so I now feel less sorry for myself.

12-23-2011, 01:52 AM   #65
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rogertmac Quote
Excuse me Cid, but wouldn´t be the opposite? If this red channel was overexposed, I shouldn´t expect the photos to be more red than normal? I got the opposite: the beautiful red skies I tried to register, simply disapeared. BTW what is "DR"?
I only skimmed the thread, but I don't think this was answered. It's not the opposite, here's how it works:

When a colour channel is blown, it has reached it maximum possible value. No matter how much more where was of that colour, it will be the same maximum value. The other colour channels, which are not blown, will however increase their values when you expose more. The result is that relative to the other channels, the blown channel will have less in it than it should, and even less as you expose more (until the other channels are also blown and the area is simply white and stays that way).

So something red will be orange of you blow the red channel. This is only partially recoverable after taking the picture. Expose for the highlights and this doesn't happen. (The image may look dark, but that can be fixed.)
12-27-2011, 02:01 PM   #66
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To touch on a few things... Given the Original Poster's familiarity with photography but lack of familiarity with digital aspects, Lightroom really is probably the best solution. The thing that makes Lightroom so great is that it is designed for the photographer. It is meant to be your digital darkroom... the name Lightroom is a play on that concept.

As others have commented, keeping the raw files is important. Raw files give you the most ability to fix the white balance, exposure, etc with your files. Raw files are essentially your negatives. Think of JPGs as your prints.

Last, software like Lightroom will make it unnecessary to use color filters. As long as you know what color filters do, you can implement that with the color sliders in your photo editor. Just as shooting in black and white is almost pointless as you can take a color image into photo software and making black and whites later with more precision than what the K5 might do internally.

As others mentioned, trials of software are great. If you are really concerned with price, look around for free alternatives. Picasa is ok, but it is limited as an editor. I think it is meant more for cataloging and sharing photos. Gimp is a good editor, but it needs add ons to work with RAW. Rawtherapee used to be a good, free, RAW image processor. It isn't as user friendly as Lightroom (although it may have changed), but for the money, free, it couldn't be beat.
01-22-2012, 11:56 AM   #67
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rogertmac Quote
Greetings,
First of all, I must say that I´m new to digital photography. I used analog SLRs (Olympus>Canon) and all the best fillms (Ilford, Velvia, Provia, Ektachrome, etc) for years and then stopped taking photos about 10 years ago when I was fed up of seeing everybody around me taking photos w/ those crappy little cameras (at the time), checking the poor photos they took, deleting the poorest ones and taking again and again, while me, w/ my "powerful" Canon Elan II, would only be able to check my photos weeks later after a lot of work and waisted time.
Nowadays, when a camera hundreds of times more featured than my old Canons is affordable, I bought a K5 after a LOT of research.
Now, after my first trip w/ the new gear, I don´t know if get happy or if I regret enterering the DSLR world...
Doubts, doubts, doubs... and more doubts! But lets go back to the title complain:
>Why, it is impossible to take red skies w/ the K5??? I took several shoots of wonderful sunsets in Paris but the camera NEVER showed anything even near the real colors of the scenes!
I tried all the WB settings: worthless! The wondefull sunset colors where always turned into casts of blue. And no, I never shoot in the green or even P mode. Always on Av, or M modes, most of the times w/ my trusty Manfrotto ball-head tripod, and playing w/ the metering modes, ISO, exposure compenstion, etc. Useless! My K5 seems to dislike reds... Another example: tried to take photos of the red trails left by cars at Champs Elisees (from the top of Triumph Arch) w/ long expositions: reds turned to orange...
I have so many other complains and doubts that it is impossible to put here.
Oh, btw, I shoot most of the photos in raw+, so maybe I have some hope, this, obviously, if one day I can learn how to start the Pentax Utilities 4... I installed it, opened it and don´t have any tiny clue how to start w/ it... Rsrsrs! Is there any online manual for it?
Thanks in advance
Any tip will be helpfull.
I know this may sound silly but it worked for me to get a good rendition of a red sunset with my K10D. Use the on board flash when shooting a sunset. It does nothing for the lighting, but it does affect the way the camera sees the scene and exposes the scene as if you were using fill flash for a scene much closer to the camera. Just for giggles, give it a try.
01-31-2012, 08:54 AM - 1 Like   #68
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(I don't know if this has already been suggested, if it was - I am sorry for wasting time).

Before you shell out on Lightroom, try its free alternative: Raw Therapee, RawTherapee Downloads .

If this is a bit overwhelming, try a no-frills approach: UFRaw - Download & Install - super fast, super easy, super quick-to-load, more than enough for simple tasks.

09-09-2013, 09:43 PM   #69
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It has been my experience that the K5 if left at it's normal settings always wants to overexpose sunsets. This is especially true if the foreground is quite a bit darker than the sky. If you aim the camera completely above the horizon then it will meter better or you can set the exposure to minus whatever it takes. I think that what happens is that when the sky is overexposed the sensor of the K5 gets overwhelmed with light and doesn't show any red color. You can't fix this with post processing because there is no red there to fix. It is better to underexpose sunsets rather than to overexpose them. You can lighten them a bit in post processing and you still have the red in the sky to work with. If you set the white balance to daylight and reduce the exposure sufficiently the reds will show up in your sunset photos. I used to have an older Nikon (D 70) and if left at the default setting it didn't overexpose sunsets but the K 5 does.
09-10-2013, 10:34 AM   #70
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QuoteOriginally posted by drougge Quote
I only skimmed the thread, but I don't think this was answered. It's not the opposite, here's how it works:

When a colour channel is blown, it has reached it maximum possible value. No matter how much more where was of that colour, it will be the same maximum value. The other colour channels, which are not blown, will however increase their values when you expose more. The result is that relative to the other channels, the blown channel will have less in it than it should, and even less as you expose more (until the other channels are also blown and the area is simply white and stays that way).

So something red will be orange of you blow the red channel. This is only partially recoverable after taking the picture. Expose for the highlights and this doesn't happen. (The image may look dark, but that can be fixed.)
In fact, when I shoot sunsets, I take the brightest part of the sky, other than directly into the sun (although when it is low I. The sky I do point at the sun) and meter off that using spot metering. The result is typical sunsets, deep red-orange sky's, with foreground detail in silhouette
09-10-2013, 10:54 AM   #71
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When I shoot sunsets I just chimp then bracket... the final exposure ends up being between -3 and +3 EV depending on the angle of the lens to the sun.. I guess I could find a way to figure this out... but honestly, sometimes trial and error is just faster.
09-10-2013, 01:19 PM   #72
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You are right, red colours are very hard to get right on digital cameras.
White balance should be set to CTE or adjusted manually, to increase redness.
And the next thing is camera calibration in the post processing software.
But yes, red is hard.
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