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01-21-2012, 06:42 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alliecat Quote
Try long exposures of running water, or if you have a dark sky, get yourself a locking cable release & try an hour's exposure for star trails.
Congrats on your awesome new camera (yes, I'm biased!) & have fun!
I will try these as soon as I work out if my camera is ok, hopefully there is no light leak.

01-21-2012, 07:19 PM   #17
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Wow, look at all those K1000 gadgets!!
01-21-2012, 09:18 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tom.Hawthorne Quote
For long exposures with my K1000 would i set it on B and hold it down for the desired time? (e.g 30 seconds or 1 minute and so on)
If and so on means hours long such as star trails then below is my first attempt and what I learned to improve on it. The K1000 would be perfect for this type of use. I am thinking a cool silhouette in the scene would add to the effect.
  1. Get out of the city to avoid stray lights. Backyard lights lighting up the trees.
  2. The big fat line is the moon coming into view hours later. This exposure was between 9pm to 5:30am.
  3. This was shot at f2.8 with ISO 50 Velvia. I figure to try f5.6 next.
  4. Of course a clear night and ultra sturdy tripod is a must.
Link to larger version -> http://www.fototime.com/220ADF4AF742E57/orig.jpg
01-22-2012, 12:08 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
If and so on means hours long such as star trails then below is my first attempt and what I learned to improve on it. The K1000 would be perfect for this type of use. I am thinking a cool silhouette in the scene would add to the effect.
  1. Get out of the city to avoid stray lights. Backyard lights lighting up the trees.
  2. The big fat line is the moon coming into view hours later. This exposure was between 9pm to 5:30am.
  3. This was shot at f2.8 with ISO 50 Velvia. I figure to try f5.6 next.
  4. Of course a clear night and ultra sturdy tripod is a must.
Link to larger version -> http://www.fototime.com/220ADF4AF742E57/orig.jpg
Thats really cool, I don't have a tripod but I'll borrow someones If and when I try this.

What method do you use to get your photos onto your computer??

01-22-2012, 07:18 AM   #20
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For the longish exposures you are planning for a very good tripod is most definitely required.

I use a Coolscan to scan all my film.
01-22-2012, 08:54 AM   #21
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I'm really surprised that it took until the second page for anyone to mention the need for a tripod. Any long exposure will need a good tripod.
01-22-2012, 10:18 AM   #22
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Crap. now I have even more things I NEED to get. Thanks
I already have two tripods , but look at all those gadgets
01-22-2012, 03:19 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
  1. This was shot at f2.8 with ISO 50 Velvia. I figure to try f5.6 next.
Yep, maybe a wee bit light...
What I did when I took my first one, was to start at the widest aperture & leave that for 10 or 15 min., then stop down one, leave that 15 min., then stop down again, & so on, up to f22. That way you get a test shot which shows you which aperture was best. Use a bright star or planet for reference, & you can then decide which of the lines you best like the effect of. I think I put the lens cap on for a few min. in between apertures, just to differentiate them. You get a dotted line of various thicknesses. Haven't got a scan of it handy but hope that makes sense.

01-22-2012, 07:30 PM   #24
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That's a good idea Alliecat. I might try that next time.

Speaking of accessories, since you're already getting a sturdy tripod then maybe a dual cable might be useful so that you'll be ready when you get a bellows kit later . . .



You can actually just get two separate cables but these duals will first stop the lens down and actuate the shutter after.
Also if you don't intend to copy slides but want to do much greater then 1:1 magnification then all you need is the bellows and not the slide copier at the end.
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