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01-20-2012, 09:52 PM   #16
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I'll take photos of my negs with a digital camera so you guys can tell what happened

01-20-2012, 11:01 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tom.Hawthorne Quote
well i took the first photo then i pressed the film rewind release button on the bottom of the camera and then i cocked the rapid-wind lever and then i took the other photo if that helps??
"Three-finger method" which I always think sounds pleasantly naughty...
Press in the release button on the bottom, clamp another finger over the rewind lever on the left side so it can't move, & use the 3rd finger to cock the shutter. Take picture #2.
After you take your 2nd picture, cock the shutter again, normally. Put the lens cap on & click the shutter again. That next shutter-cocking re-engages the sprockets & pops the release button back out. You'll have half a blank frame between this shot & the next one.
If you don't do that, when you take the next picture it will overlap half of the previous one.
Also when doing double exposures make sure you have allowed for extra light hitting the film -- you need to give each shot half the exposure. So for example if you're doing 2 shots, on 200 ISO film, an easy way to do it is to set your ISO dial to 400 & follow the light meter. Don't forget to change it back when you're done! Or, you can just underexpose each by one stop. If you're putting 3 exposures on the frame, (I think) you give each 1/3 of the light.
Sorry if you know that already... I just wonder if you maybe changed that ISO dial & then forgot to change it back when you shot the rest of the roll?
None of this helps if you really have a light leak, but I wanted to post the double-exposure thing because they can be fun & I hope you won't be put off trying more.
I use the "3 finger method" all the time to put moons in my night shots. I do multiples less often, so I tend to forget, do I multiply the ISO by 3, for example, or do I double it 3 times...?
Anyway, hope that helps a little.
And yes, I use a K1000

P.S. If you have a bunch of multiple exposures on a roll, don't forget to tell the film lab that the frames will be irregularly spaced, & to cut them carefully. Otherwise, they may blindly chop away at 4 frames' worth of space & cut your pix in half.
01-21-2012, 06:15 PM   #18
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The photos of some of the negs

The negs after the double exposure

My photos don't work for some reason so you need to right click and open in new window/tab.
01-21-2012, 06:21 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alliecat Quote
"Three-finger method" which I always think sounds pleasantly naughty...
Press in the release button on the bottom, clamp another finger over the rewind lever on the left side so it can't move, & use the 3rd finger to cock the shutter. Take picture #2.
After you take your 2nd picture, cock the shutter again, normally. Put the lens cap on & click the shutter again. That next shutter-cocking re-engages the sprockets & pops the release button back out. You'll have half a blank frame between this shot & the next one.
If you don't do that, when you take the next picture it will overlap half of the previous one.
Also when doing double exposures make sure you have allowed for extra light hitting the film -- you need to give each shot half the exposure. So for example if you're doing 2 shots, on 200 ISO film, an easy way to do it is to set your ISO dial to 400 & follow the light meter. Don't forget to change it back when you're done! Or, you can just underexpose each by one stop. If you're putting 3 exposures on the frame, (I think) you give each 1/3 of the light.
Sorry if you know that already... I just wonder if you maybe changed that ISO dial & then forgot to change it back when you shot the rest of the roll?
None of this helps if you really have a light leak, but I wanted to post the double-exposure thing because they can be fun & I hope you won't be put off trying more.
I use the "3 finger method" all the time to put moons in my night shots. I do multiples less often, so I tend to forget, do I multiply the ISO by 3, for example, or do I double it 3 times...?
Anyway, hope that helps a little.
And yes, I use a K1000

P.S. If you have a bunch of multiple exposures on a roll, don't forget to tell the film lab that the frames will be irregularly spaced, & to cut them carefully. Otherwise, they may blindly chop away at 4 frames' worth of space & cut your pix in half.
Thanks for the help I'll need to practice it. I'm going to need someone to show me how to do it well because i'm very new to photography and of course film. I think I understand most of what your saying though.

01-22-2012, 12:03 AM   #20
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Thanks for the help everyone
I got my second and third rolls of film back from where they were getting developed and they were fine no light leaking in or anything. I actually got some good shots.
I assume something went wrong when I tried the double exposure because I don't remember opening the back of the camera. I'll just have to practice doing them.
01-22-2012, 02:54 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tom.Hawthorne Quote
The photos of some of the negs
Looks like the back was opened. The film on the outside gets more affected than film on the inside of the take up spool. There should be no 'black' (exposed) outside the image area so even if the back hasn't been opened (the double exposures sort of confuse the issue) the earlier exposure show definite light leaks. Check your seals around the film door as they may be deteriorating. Fairly simple fix and I think you can buy 'kits' of the foam to do the job yourself. I've got an old Mamiya 645 that had me baffled in that I used to get lines across the negs occasionally. Turned out that the film door was leaking ever so slightly and only affected the film if it was left at that frame for a significant amount of time and had been left out in the sunshine. I took it to get fixed and the camera tech told me that if there was extra density outside the image frame, it was 99.9% likely a film back leak.
01-22-2012, 03:04 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by HGMonaro Quote
Looks like the back was opened. The film on the outside gets more affected than film on the inside of the take up spool. There should be no 'black' (exposed) outside the image area so even if the back hasn't been opened (the double exposures sort of confuse the issue) the earlier exposure show definite light leaks. Check your seals around the film door as they may be deteriorating. Fairly simple fix and I think you can buy 'kits' of the foam to do the job yourself. I've got an old Mamiya 645 that had me baffled in that I used to get lines across the negs occasionally. Turned out that the film door was leaking ever so slightly and only affected the film if it was left at that frame for a significant amount of time and had been left out in the sunshine. I took it to get fixed and the camera tech told me that if there was extra density outside the image frame, it was 99.9% likely a film back leak.
I looked at the negs from my second and third rolls and there are no signs of light leaking in which is good although those kits sound like a good idea.
01-22-2012, 03:12 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tom.Hawthorne Quote
I'm going to need someone to show me how to do it well because i'm very new to photography and of course film. I think I understand most of what your saying though.

Goodness... I googled it thinking there might be an instructional photography video somewhere. Looks like there is everything BUT photography, called that. Oh well...! That's what I first heard it called!
It's pretty straightforward. Good luck.

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