K10D Repair and Teardown

Dave · 02-02-2012, 08:45 AM - **1 Like**

So I broke what I thought was either the prism or the viewfinder on my K10D a while ago. I've been living with cause it didn't bother me too much.

But the front adjustment dial started acting up on me and the faux leather on the left peeled off, so I figured it was time to repair the camera.

I bought a broken one off the Forum here and after an hour or so, repaired and working!

Taken with an old M Sigma 28-70mm that is actually 2.8 - 4 and does a decent job for a lens I picked up for $20.

Now here is where it got interesting. The Forum Member asked me to figure out what was wrong with his camera while I was at it. There are very striking difference between my camera which is date stamped October and his which is stamped April. The October camera is on the right in this image.

I narrowed down the list of possible problems to an issue with the main board, having tested voltage off the back, voltage through the SD card door sensor and voltage off the battery. One of the most obvious things is the extra shielding and different color wires on my camera. On his Pentax chip there was some very clear goo that I was unable to locate the source of.

In addition in lower left corner of the picture you can see two power connectors, the black wire was attached first and there are solder trace and melted insulation from where they attached the red wire. I found this to be the case across the entire April camera with poor solder control and weak welds.

In conclusion it appears that this earlier K10D body had some quality control issues. I'm wondering if anyone else has had issues or had issued with earlier K10's that were repaired or replaced, and if so what was repaired? I've had my SD card lock go on my K10, and it was replaced under warranty.

Dave

gabro822 · 02-02-2012, 09:34 AM

When i saw those images, a tear drop off my eye... but if "she" is better now, you are the best

Dave · 02-02-2012, 10:22 AM

Yup. Good as new

**Lowell Goudge** · 02-02-2012, 10:59 AM

Interesting

How easy was it to get at the lens locking lever, and the linkage that goes from this lever to the locking pin and screw drive, mine has either broken or separated,

any shots of the donor body from the mount side?

Dave · 02-02-2012, 12:33 PM

Getting at the Kaf2 mount is really easy. Bottom comes off first, then front plastic... undo the 5 or 6 screws from the lens mount and carefully remove it... the FA/DA pins are spring mounted to the underside along with the screw drive lever and the release mounts... I think I have some of the front at home, but if not google Pentax Service Manual, there is a site that has it on the net and it shows the mount and associated hardware very clearly.

**Lowell Goudge** · 02-02-2012, 12:48 PM

Originally posted by Dave

Getting at the Kaf2 mount is really easy. Bottom comes off first, then front plastic... undo the 5 or 6 screws from the lens mount and carefully remove it... the FA/DA pins are spring mounted to the underside along with the screw drive lever and the release mounts... I think I have some of the front at home, but if not google Pentax Service Manual, there is a site that has it on the net and it shows the mount and associated hardware very clearly.

Thanks

It is just a curious question, mine has failed but since I use the K10D mostly with legacy lenses, I have somewhat decided to just leave my M42 adaptor in place,

everything else works, except with the locking pin recessed the screw drive is also disengaged so AF also does not function,.

Dave · 02-02-2012, 01:13 PM

Ok... I'll for those images when I get home.

JACOBY · 02-02-2012, 02:18 PM

you are brave

stevebrot · 02-02-2012, 02:56 PM

Originally posted by Dave

In conclusion it appears that this earlier K10D body had some quality control issues. I'm wondering if anyone else has had issues or had issued with earlier K10's that were repaired or replaced, and if so what was repaired?

I bought mine in April 2007 and have had zero issues.

Steve

**Cee Cee** · 02-02-2012, 07:42 PM

Hi, well done on repairing your camera, a couple of points, the gunk on the chip is most likely where the screening foil was secured, the fact that the foil is missing means that someone has been inside - probably trying to fix the camera and has not refitted the foil when the camera was reassembled, this would also explain the soldering issues you raise as connections to wires & chip components can be "re-flowed" or re-soldered as part of service in the hope of finding a poor connection which is causing the problem, you'd be surprised how often this is the case. Also certain wires have to be desoldered as part of the disassembly procedure as outlined in the service manual, then reconnected during assembly. To suggest that the factory soldering was dodgy or thay they had quality control issues based on this one camera is unjustfied. Its more than likely that at some stage the unit has had some repair work attempted by someone with less than the required skills or attitude.
In your photo I've circled an area that looks like a solder splash - if it is then this could be a problem but I suspect it is some glue or compound maybe flux residue which is catching the light and appearing silver.

cheers
CC.

Dave · 02-02-2012, 08:02 PM

Its very possible I don't know the history of the camera other than 'it won't turn on'. I wasn't laying the blame on anyone, just speculating that if this is how the camera 'came' then QC would have been an issue. Good point about the shield though, hadn't thought of that. Here are some of the other areas I noticed:

Some pretty clear scorching on the white wire, and dirty contacts.

And some more dribbles off to the right on the ribbon cable.

I was amazed at how tightly wound the insides were. Absolutely no way to disassemble the unit with out a lot of solder work. Makes repairing the mainboard, or even something as 'simple' as the upper selector dial a real test of one's soldering skills. Fortunately most of the parts I needed to fix were physical pieces not electronic. In my earlier post you can see the faux leather left grip on my bench... now I've got a nice factory attached one!

Just for fun another one of the camera back together.

Unfortunately no good images of the front of the camera (either one) in process I was mostly worried about the electronics on the back.

Dave

**Lowell Goudge** · 02-02-2012, 08:15 PM

Dave. Those joints are all armature. No professional repair did those

Dave · 02-02-2012, 08:42 PM

Yeah the welds were very brittle. I didn't break any taking the camera apart, but it was close. Glad its probably not Penax :P I'll have to ask the seller if he's got any more info on the wee beastie.

**Cee Cee** · 02-02-2012, 08:53 PM

Originally posted by Lowell Goudge

Dave. Those joints are all armature. No professional repair did those

100% agree, with those connections to to the copper foil there is no mass to draw away heat so soldering should be very rapid, virtually instantaneous for an experienced Technician with reasonable soldering skills. The burnt flux residue indicates to hot/ to long/ to many times or all of those factors.

Yes it is tight in there Dave, they are difficult things to work on. I have a lifetimes experience of fixing broken electronics and even I feel a little uneasy at stripping down an DSLR as I know there are a whole heap of things that can go wrong in the process. Do you have a service manual, it is available on the internet. If not email me and I'll send it. It doesn't tell lot about fixing them but it does have detailed disassembly and re-assembly instructions with pictures.

Dave · 02-02-2012, 09:02 PM

Originally posted by Cee Cee

Do you have a service manual, it is available on the internet. If not email me and I'll send it. It doesn't tell lot about fixing them but it does have detailed disassembly and re-assembly instructions with pictures.

Yeah the service manual gave me the insight I needed to get the prism shield out with out having to touch any of the bits. Thank you though. My repair focus is a bit more... forgiving... you could say, as I do handyperson stuff like light carpentry, plumbing and electrical, in addition to photography. I've got a steady enough hand to get in and out with out damaging anything, but I don't think I could do the mainboard on a K10 with out a bit of practice first. I was very glad the back had one screw (ground) and a push connector (I/O), but I was quite a bit worried about the top piece as that selector dial is hard wire attached to the body, as is the flash guts.

02-02-2012, 08:45 AM - 1 Like	#1
Dave Forum Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: VT Photos: Albums Posts: 67	K10D Repair and Teardown So I broke what I thought was either the prism or the viewfinder on my K10D a while ago. I've been living with cause it didn't bother me too much. But the front adjustment dial started acting up on me and the faux leather on the left peeled off, so I figured it was time to repair the camera. I bought a broken one off the Forum here and after an hour or so, repaired and working! Taken with an old M Sigma 28-70mm that is actually 2.8 - 4 and does a decent job for a lens I picked up for $20. Now here is where it got interesting. The Forum Member asked me to figure out what was wrong with his camera while I was at it. There are very striking difference between my camera which is date stamped October and his which is stamped April. The October camera is on the right in this image. I narrowed down the list of possible problems to an issue with the main board, having tested voltage off the back, voltage through the SD card door sensor and voltage off the battery. One of the most obvious things is the extra shielding and different color wires on my camera. On his Pentax chip there was some very clear goo that I was unable to locate the source of. In addition in lower left corner of the picture you can see two power connectors, the black wire was attached first and there are solder trace and melted insulation from where they attached the red wire. I found this to be the case across the entire April camera with poor solder control and weak welds. In conclusion it appears that this earlier K10D body had some quality control issues. I'm wondering if anyone else has had issues or had issued with earlier K10's that were repaired or replaced, and if so what was repaired? I've had my SD card lock go on my K10, and it was replaced under warranty. Dave

02-02-2012, 07:42 PM	#10
Cee Cee Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Glenroy, Melbourne Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,441	Hi, well done on repairing your camera, a couple of points, the gunk on the chip is most likely where the screening foil was secured, the fact that the foil is missing means that someone has been inside - probably trying to fix the camera and has not refitted the foil when the camera was reassembled, this would also explain the soldering issues you raise as connections to wires & chip components can be "re-flowed" or re-soldered as part of service in the hope of finding a poor connection which is causing the problem, you'd be surprised how often this is the case. Also certain wires have to be desoldered as part of the disassembly procedure as outlined in the service manual, then reconnected during assembly. To suggest that the factory soldering was dodgy or thay they had quality control issues based on this one camera is unjustfied. Its more than likely that at some stage the unit has had some repair work attempted by someone with less than the required skills or attitude. In your photo I've circled an area that looks like a solder splash - if it is then this could be a problem but I suspect it is some glue or compound maybe flux residue which is catching the light and appearing silver. cheers CC. Attached Images

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02-02-2012, 09:34 AM	#2
gabro822 Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Milan Photos: Gallery Posts: 339	When i saw those images, a tear drop off my eye... but if "she" is better now, you are the best

02-02-2012, 10:22 AM	#3
Dave Forum Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: VT Photos: Albums Posts: 67 Original Poster	Yup. Good as new

02-02-2012, 10:59 AM	#4
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,891	Interesting How easy was it to get at the lens locking lever, and the linkage that goes from this lever to the locking pin and screw drive, mine has either broken or separated, any shots of the donor body from the mount side?

02-02-2012, 12:33 PM	#5
Dave Forum Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: VT Photos: Albums Posts: 67 Original Poster	Getting at the Kaf2 mount is really easy. Bottom comes off first, then front plastic... undo the 5 or 6 screws from the lens mount and carefully remove it... the FA/DA pins are spring mounted to the underside along with the screw drive lever and the release mounts... I think I have some of the front at home, but if not google Pentax Service Manual, there is a site that has it on the net and it shows the mount and associated hardware very clearly.

02-02-2012, 12:48 PM	#6
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,891	Originally posted by Dave Getting at the Kaf2 mount is really easy. Bottom comes off first, then front plastic... undo the 5 or 6 screws from the lens mount and carefully remove it... the FA/DA pins are spring mounted to the underside along with the screw drive lever and the release mounts... I think I have some of the front at home, but if not google Pentax Service Manual, there is a site that has it on the net and it shows the mount and associated hardware very clearly. Thanks It is just a curious question, mine has failed but since I use the K10D mostly with legacy lenses, I have somewhat decided to just leave my M42 adaptor in place, everything else works, except with the locking pin recessed the screw drive is also disengaged so AF also does not function,.

02-02-2012, 01:13 PM	#7
Dave Forum Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: VT Photos: Albums Posts: 67 Original Poster	Ok... I'll for those images when I get home.

02-02-2012, 02:18 PM	#8
JACOBY Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: PGH PENNA Posts: 340	you are brave

02-02-2012, 02:56 PM	#9
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by Dave In conclusion it appears that this earlier K10D body had some quality control issues. I'm wondering if anyone else has had issues or had issued with earlier K10's that were repaired or replaced, and if so what was repaired? I bought mine in April 2007 and have had zero issues. Steve

02-02-2012, 08:02 PM	#11
Dave Forum Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: VT Photos: Albums Posts: 67 Original Poster	Its very possible I don't know the history of the camera other than 'it won't turn on'. I wasn't laying the blame on anyone, just speculating that if this is how the camera 'came' then QC would have been an issue. Good point about the shield though, hadn't thought of that. Here are some of the other areas I noticed: Some pretty clear scorching on the white wire, and dirty contacts. And some more dribbles off to the right on the ribbon cable. I was amazed at how tightly wound the insides were. Absolutely no way to disassemble the unit with out a lot of solder work. Makes repairing the mainboard, or even something as 'simple' as the upper selector dial a real test of one's soldering skills. Fortunately most of the parts I needed to fix were physical pieces not electronic. In my earlier post you can see the faux leather left grip on my bench... now I've got a nice factory attached one! Just for fun another one of the camera back together. Unfortunately no good images of the front of the camera (either one) in process I was mostly worried about the electronics on the back. Dave

02-02-2012, 08:15 PM	#12
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,891	Dave. Those joints are all armature. No professional repair did those

02-02-2012, 08:42 PM	#13
Dave Forum Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: VT Photos: Albums Posts: 67 Original Poster	Yeah the welds were very brittle. I didn't break any taking the camera apart, but it was close. Glad its probably not Penax :P I'll have to ask the seller if he's got any more info on the wee beastie.

02-02-2012, 08:53 PM	#14
Cee Cee Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Glenroy, Melbourne Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,441	Originally posted by Lowell Goudge Dave. Those joints are all armature. No professional repair did those 100% agree, with those connections to to the copper foil there is no mass to draw away heat so soldering should be very rapid, virtually instantaneous for an experienced Technician with reasonable soldering skills. The burnt flux residue indicates to hot/ to long/ to many times or all of those factors. Yes it is tight in there Dave, they are difficult things to work on. I have a lifetimes experience of fixing broken electronics and even I feel a little uneasy at stripping down an DSLR as I know there are a whole heap of things that can go wrong in the process. Do you have a service manual, it is available on the internet. If not email me and I'll send it. It doesn't tell lot about fixing them but it does have detailed disassembly and re-assembly instructions with pictures.

02-02-2012, 09:02 PM	#15
Dave Forum Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: VT Photos: Albums Posts: 67 Original Poster	Originally posted by Cee Cee Do you have a service manual, it is available on the internet. If not email me and I'll send it. It doesn't tell lot about fixing them but it does have detailed disassembly and re-assembly instructions with pictures. Yeah the service manual gave me the insight I needed to get the prism shield out with out having to touch any of the bits. Thank you though. My repair focus is a bit more... forgiving... you could say, as I do handyperson stuff like light carpentry, plumbing and electrical, in addition to photography. I've got a steady enough hand to get in and out with out damaging anything, but I don't think I could do the mainboard on a K10 with out a bit of practice first. I was very glad the back had one screw (ground) and a push connector (I/O), but I was quite a bit worried about the top piece as that selector dial is hard wire attached to the body, as is the flash guts.