How to replace CCD on my ist DL?

cjlawrie · 02-17-2012, 02:32 PM

Don't know if anyone can help with this request for help.

I believe my DL's CCD is broken so I am replacing it from a DL with a different fatal problem.

Has anyone replaced a Pentax CCD or made major repairs near the CCD that could advise me on best way to approach other than trial and error?

I have replaced a CCD on a Canon Powershot A75 which fits my Waterproof case (worth more than my camera) successfully but there was a youtube video available to guide me.

Grateful for any assistance.

Cheers

pezmaker · 02-17-2012, 03:42 PM - **2 Likes**

well, here's an exploded view of it, at least. As to how to break it down without breaking it, good luck...

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/48910-pentax-ist-d...oded-view.html

cjlawrie · 02-17-2012, 04:56 PM

Thank you pezmaker!

Steinback · 02-17-2012, 05:19 PM - **1 Like**

All I can say is good luck. On the plus side, with a working DS or DL body worth something like $100 to $150 finding a replacement shouldn't be too painful if the repair fails.

cjlawrie · 02-17-2012, 05:31 PM

Thanks. I agree that I don't have much to lose by trying to repair this camera. I have my eyes on a K10D for $250 and a K-R for $480 as plan B.

karma mechanic · 02-22-2012, 08:17 AM

Here are some details of the of the Samsung GX1L / Pentax DL2 disassembly. Always record which screws are which - there are several different sizes. Pop the flash up while there is a battery in the camera, and open the SD card door. The original DL might be slightly different.

*** Discharge the flash capacitor using a 1K or similar resistor ***
It is possible to handle the camera without doing this but be careful about touching the left side of the body - it hurts!

First of all you take the screws out of the baseplate. There are 4 around the battery compartment door, plus 4 more slightly longer ones.

Then two screws from inside the battery compartment, the inner and outer screws are different sizes.

Top plate - one screw on the right end next to the strap connector, plus two under the flash lid.

Viewfinder - two long screws.

Right side of camera - two screws.

Left side of camera - one on the side of the throat, two on the end.

Under the throat - two screws. set the AF switch to AF.

Remove the card slot surround - two very small screws. Not sure if this is necessary.

Main board: various wires to desolder, and multiple connectors. Some are flip-up, some are a slide lock. Be very careful with the connectors.

Remove back (two connectors and two wires)

Undo all the connectors and the wires at the top and remove the main board itself (5 screws, not all the same size) by pivoting it downwards as shown. Note that the wires came off the backup battery (the black circular object) so I had to solder them on again later. If careful it should be possible to avoid this.

The sensor assembly is held on with three silvery screws into the three brass-coloured posts:

It may be the case that a sensor only works properly with the main board to which it is adjusted, in which case you might as well swap the main board too.

02-17-2012, 02:32 PM	#1
cjlawrie New Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Florida Posts: 13	How to replace CCD on my ist DL? Don't know if anyone can help with this request for help. I believe my DL's CCD is broken so I am replacing it from a DL with a different fatal problem. Has anyone replaced a Pentax CCD or made major repairs near the CCD that could advise me on best way to approach other than trial and error? I have replaced a CCD on a Canon Powershot A75 which fits my Waterproof case (worth more than my camera) successfully but there was a youtube video available to guide me. Grateful for any assistance. Cheers

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02-17-2012, 03:42 PM - 2 Likes	#2
pezmaker Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Madison, WI Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 276	well, here's an exploded view of it, at least. As to how to break it down without breaking it, good luck... https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/48910-pentax-ist-d...oded-view.html

02-17-2012, 04:56 PM	#3
cjlawrie New Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Florida Posts: 13 Original Poster	Thank you pezmaker!

02-17-2012, 05:19 PM - 1 Like	#4
Steinback Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: GTA, ON, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,673	All I can say is good luck. On the plus side, with a working DS or DL body worth something like $100 to $150 finding a replacement shouldn't be too painful if the repair fails.

02-17-2012, 05:31 PM	#5
cjlawrie New Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Florida Posts: 13 Original Poster	Thanks. I agree that I don't have much to lose by trying to repair this camera. I have my eyes on a K10D for $250 and a K-R for $480 as plan B.

02-22-2012, 08:17 AM	#6
karma mechanic Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Hampshire, England Posts: 192	Here are some details of the of the Samsung GX1L / Pentax DL2 disassembly. Always record which screws are which - there are several different sizes. Pop the flash up while there is a battery in the camera, and open the SD card door. The original DL might be slightly different. * Discharge the flash capacitor using a 1K or similar resistor * It is possible to handle the camera without doing this but be careful about touching the left side of the body - it hurts! First of all you take the screws out of the baseplate. There are 4 around the battery compartment door, plus 4 more slightly longer ones. Then two screws from inside the battery compartment, the inner and outer screws are different sizes. Top plate - one screw on the right end next to the strap connector, plus two under the flash lid. Viewfinder - two long screws. Right side of camera - two screws. Left side of camera - one on the side of the throat, two on the end. Under the throat - two screws. set the AF switch to AF. Remove the card slot surround - two very small screws. Not sure if this is necessary. Main board: various wires to desolder, and multiple connectors. Some are flip-up, some are a slide lock. Be very careful with the connectors. Remove back (two connectors and two wires) Undo all the connectors and the wires at the top and remove the main board itself (5 screws, not all the same size) by pivoting it downwards as shown. Note that the wires came off the backup battery (the black circular object) so I had to solder them on again later. If careful it should be possible to avoid this. The sensor assembly is held on with three silvery screws into the three brass-coloured posts: It may be the case that a sensor only works properly with the main board to which it is adjusted, in which case you might as well swap the main board too.