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03-08-2012, 01:03 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by kaiserz Quote
I heard with SR on you can do a 1/FLx1. Is this true?

Thanks guys (: I'll be incorporating this when I shoot now.
easily. with a 50mm at 1/15 ive gotten consistent results so that is 1/FL * 0.33

03-08-2012, 01:14 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by eddie1960 Quote
easily. with a 50mm at 1/15 ive gotten consistent results so that is 1/FL * 0.33
Ohh wow! Proper shooting technique + sr = something like that is achievable (:

But with SR off is there really a big difference when you shoot 50 at 1/15?
03-08-2012, 01:52 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by kaiserz Quote
Ohh wow! Proper shooting technique + sr = something like that is achievable (:

But with SR off is there really a big difference when you shoot 50 at 1/15?
not a chance i can shoot 1/15 on a 50mm without SR, at best it will look very soft. Older I get the harder it gets to hit the slow speeds without artificial enhancement. when i was 18 i could shoot 1/25 on 35mm film no problem but i never really shot below that without a tripod
I rarely shoot longer than 100mm so i can't speak to results at those FL because i don't have sufficient data to compare. at 1/15 like i said subject movement is an issue as well

I think the SR rule of thumb is a 1.5 stop gain in shutter speed is pretty consistent, though i find 2 stops still in the zone.
for things like street shooting it is hit and miss because the environment changes rapidly enough that SR being properly active is hit and miss. First OS I ever saw shot a Toronto Star Reporter friend brought over a Canon A2E and the first gen 70-200 is lens on new years day back in the 90's. he shot in very dim daylight iso 400 by the front window hand held wide open at about 85mm. shot was razor sharp. can't remember the exposure but i would have put it at about 1/25 second at best having shot under the exact same conditions. so even early Optical systems could hit a couple of stops with technique
03-08-2012, 02:41 PM   #19
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Wow that is awesome to hear!

03-08-2012, 02:58 PM   #20
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If you want SHARP photos, use a tripod and delayed shutter (SR off) with mirror lockup.
If you want PRETTY SHARP handheld photos, use 1/FL with SR on or 1/5FL with SR off.
If you want SORTA SHARP handheld photos, use 5/FL with SR on or 1/FL with SR off.
If you don't really care how sharp the images are, then anything goes. Have fun!
03-08-2012, 08:02 PM   #21
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So am I correct that if I take a photo of a skier at a shutter speed of 1000th Sr is not really going to help especially if I am panning
03-08-2012, 08:11 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by telegazz Quote
So am I correct that if I take a photo of a skier at a shutter speed of 1000th Sr is not really going to help especially if I am panning
Depends on the focal length. If it's a 1000mm lens then SR will help at 1000th second. If it's a 50mm lens then SR won't help.
03-08-2012, 10:01 PM   #23
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if and when you remember you're that steady.

03-08-2012, 10:08 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by telegazz Quote
So am I correct that if I take a photo of a skier at a shutter speed of 1000th Sr is not really going to help especially if I am panning
Actually, though, it's highly improbable that that would not help. Unless you know just why it would or wouldn't.

Turn it on unless your camera support is just that good, which I'm presuming it isn't.
03-08-2012, 10:27 PM   #25
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Just to elaborate I have only tried this once the only good position is on a pontoon attached to the bank (so it moves so I cant use my tripod ) so it's hand held with the boat approaching at the better part of a 100MPH I have a K20 with a 55-300 on it so I have a very small window of opportunity to get the picture generally using 400ISO
center focus and center metering The problem is probably me as i'am just relearning after a 45 year lay off.
03-09-2012, 04:17 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by telegazz Quote
Just to elaborate I have only tried this once the only good position is on a pontoon attached to the bank (so it moves so I cant use my tripod ) so it's hand held with the boat approaching at the better part of a 100MPH I have a K20 with a 55-300 on it so I have a very small window of opportunity to get the picture generally using 400ISO
center focus and center metering The problem is probably me as i'am just relearning after a 45 year lay off.
OK ! 300mm=450mm= 500s to compensate for magnification. You then need to freeze motion on top of this... so add at least say another 500s = 1000s.
That should do just fine !
03-09-2012, 06:10 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by telegazz Quote
So am I correct that if I take a photo of a skier at a shutter speed of 1000th Sr is not really going to help especially if I am panning
If you are panning you want to avoid SR in any case, 1/1000 should be sufficient (for the longest time 1/500 was the max on a camera and people managed to do panning shots of race cars or shots of race at night
Lemans 1970 - (not mine Prsche promo pick from the steve mcqueen movie someone has up on flickr)


03-09-2012, 06:11 AM   #28
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I'm not going to bother to look it up again, but Pentax recommends to leave SR on while panning, and also while using a monopod.
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