when don't you use shake reduction

eddie1960 · 03-08-2012, 01:03 PM

Originally posted by kaiserz

I heard with SR on you can do a 1/FLx1. Is this true?

Thanks guys (: I'll be incorporating this when I shoot now.

easily. with a 50mm at 1/15 ive gotten consistent results so that is 1/FL * 0.33

kaiserz · 03-08-2012, 01:14 PM

Originally posted by eddie1960

easily. with a 50mm at 1/15 ive gotten consistent results so that is 1/FL * 0.33

Ohh wow! Proper shooting technique + sr = something like that is achievable (:

But with SR off is there really a big difference when you shoot 50 at 1/15?

eddie1960 · 03-08-2012, 01:52 PM

Originally posted by kaiserz

Ohh wow! Proper shooting technique + sr = something like that is achievable (:

But with SR off is there really a big difference when you shoot 50 at 1/15?

not a chance i can shoot 1/15 on a 50mm without SR, at best it will look very soft. Older I get the harder it gets to hit the slow speeds without artificial enhancement. when i was 18 i could shoot 1/25 on 35mm film no problem but i never really shot below that without a tripod
I rarely shoot longer than 100mm so i can't speak to results at those FL because i don't have sufficient data to compare. at 1/15 like i said subject movement is an issue as well

I think the SR rule of thumb is a 1.5 stop gain in shutter speed is pretty consistent, though i find 2 stops still in the zone.
for things like street shooting it is hit and miss because the environment changes rapidly enough that SR being properly active is hit and miss. First OS I ever saw shot a Toronto Star Reporter friend brought over a Canon A2E and the first gen 70-200 is lens on new years day back in the 90's. he shot in very dim daylight iso 400 by the front window hand held wide open at about 85mm. shot was razor sharp. can't remember the exposure but i would have put it at about 1/25 second at best having shot under the exact same conditions. so even early Optical systems could hit a couple of stops with technique

kaiserz · 03-08-2012, 02:41 PM

Wow that is awesome to hear!

RioRico · 03-08-2012, 02:58 PM

If you want SHARP photos, use a tripod and delayed shutter (SR off) with mirror lockup.
If you want PRETTY SHARP handheld photos, use 1/FL with SR on or 1/5FL with SR off.
If you want SORTA SHARP handheld photos, use 5/FL with SR on or 1/FL with SR off.
If you don't really care how sharp the images are, then anything goes. Have fun!

telegazz · 03-08-2012, 08:02 PM

So am I correct that if I take a photo of a skier at a shutter speed of 1000th Sr is not really going to help especially if I am panning

RioRico · 03-08-2012, 08:11 PM

Originally posted by telegazz

So am I correct that if I take a photo of a skier at a shutter speed of 1000th Sr is not really going to help especially if I am panning

Depends on the focal length. If it's a 1000mm lens then SR will help at 1000th second. If it's a 50mm lens then SR won't help.

Ratmagiclady · 03-08-2012, 10:01 PM

if and when you remember you're that steady.

Ratmagiclady · 03-08-2012, 10:08 PM

Originally posted by telegazz

So am I correct that if I take a photo of a skier at a shutter speed of 1000th Sr is not really going to help especially if I am panning

Actually, though, it's highly improbable that that would not help. Unless you know just why it would or wouldn't.

Turn it on unless your camera support is just that good, which I'm presuming it isn't.

telegazz · 03-08-2012, 10:27 PM

Just to elaborate I have only tried this once the only good position is on a pontoon attached to the bank (so it moves so I cant use my tripod ) so it's hand held with the boat approaching at the better part of a 100MPH I have a K20 with a 55-300 on it so I have a very small window of opportunity to get the picture generally using 400ISO
center focus and center metering The problem is probably me as i'am just relearning after a 45 year lay off.

westmill · 03-09-2012, 04:17 AM

Originally posted by telegazz

Just to elaborate I have only tried this once the only good position is on a pontoon attached to the bank (so it moves so I cant use my tripod ) so it's hand held with the boat approaching at the better part of a 100MPH I have a K20 with a 55-300 on it so I have a very small window of opportunity to get the picture generally using 400ISO
center focus and center metering The problem is probably me as i'am just relearning after a 45 year lay off.

OK ! 300mm=450mm= 500s to compensate for magnification. You then need to freeze motion on top of this... so add at least say another 500s = 1000s.
That should do just fine !

eddie1960 · 03-09-2012, 06:10 AM

Originally posted by telegazz

So am I correct that if I take a photo of a skier at a shutter speed of 1000th Sr is not really going to help especially if I am panning

If you are panning you want to avoid SR in any case, 1/1000 should be sufficient (for the longest time 1/500 was the max on a camera and people managed to do panning shots of race cars or shots of race at night

Lemans 1970 - (not mine Prsche promo pick from the steve mcqueen movie someone has up on flickr)

audiobomber · 03-09-2012, 06:11 AM

I'm not going to bother to look it up again, but Pentax recommends to leave SR on while panning, and also while using a monopod.

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03-08-2012, 01:03 PM	#16
eddie1960 Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 13,667	Originally posted by kaiserz I heard with SR on you can do a 1/FLx1. Is this true? Thanks guys (: I'll be incorporating this when I shoot now. easily. with a 50mm at 1/15 ive gotten consistent results so that is 1/FL * 0.33

03-08-2012, 01:14 PM	#17
kaiserz Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: NoVa The "burg" Photos: Gallery Posts: 899	Originally posted by eddie1960 easily. with a 50mm at 1/15 ive gotten consistent results so that is 1/FL * 0.33 Ohh wow! Proper shooting technique + sr = something like that is achievable (: But with SR off is there really a big difference when you shoot 50 at 1/15?

03-08-2012, 01:52 PM	#18
eddie1960 Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 13,667	Originally posted by kaiserz Ohh wow! Proper shooting technique + sr = something like that is achievable (: But with SR off is there really a big difference when you shoot 50 at 1/15? not a chance i can shoot 1/15 on a 50mm without SR, at best it will look very soft. Older I get the harder it gets to hit the slow speeds without artificial enhancement. when i was 18 i could shoot 1/25 on 35mm film no problem but i never really shot below that without a tripod I rarely shoot longer than 100mm so i can't speak to results at those FL because i don't have sufficient data to compare. at 1/15 like i said subject movement is an issue as well I think the SR rule of thumb is a 1.5 stop gain in shutter speed is pretty consistent, though i find 2 stops still in the zone. for things like street shooting it is hit and miss because the environment changes rapidly enough that SR being properly active is hit and miss. First OS I ever saw shot a Toronto Star Reporter friend brought over a Canon A2E and the first gen 70-200 is lens on new years day back in the 90's. he shot in very dim daylight iso 400 by the front window hand held wide open at about 85mm. shot was razor sharp. can't remember the exposure but i would have put it at about 1/25 second at best having shot under the exact same conditions. so even early Optical systems could hit a couple of stops with technique

03-08-2012, 02:41 PM	#19
kaiserz Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: NoVa The "burg" Photos: Gallery Posts: 899	Wow that is awesome to hear!

03-08-2012, 02:58 PM	#20
RioRico Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Limbo, California Posts: 11,263	If you want SHARP photos, use a tripod and delayed shutter (SR off) with mirror lockup. If you want PRETTY SHARP handheld photos, use 1/FL with SR on or 1/5FL with SR off. If you want SORTA SHARP handheld photos, use 5/FL with SR on or 1/FL with SR off. If you don't really care how sharp the images are, then anything goes. Have fun!

03-08-2012, 08:02 PM	#21
telegazz Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: brisbane queensland australia Photos: Gallery Posts: 45 Original Poster	So am I correct that if I take a photo of a skier at a shutter speed of 1000th Sr is not really going to help especially if I am panning

03-08-2012, 08:11 PM	#22
RioRico Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Limbo, California Posts: 11,263	Originally posted by telegazz So am I correct that if I take a photo of a skier at a shutter speed of 1000th Sr is not really going to help especially if I am panning Depends on the focal length. If it's a 1000mm lens then SR will help at 1000th second. If it's a 50mm lens then SR won't help.

03-08-2012, 10:01 PM	#23
Ratmagiclady Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: GA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 13,563	if and when you remember you're that steady.

03-08-2012, 10:08 PM	#24
Ratmagiclady Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: GA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 13,563	Originally posted by telegazz So am I correct that if I take a photo of a skier at a shutter speed of 1000th Sr is not really going to help especially if I am panning Actually, though, it's highly improbable that that would not help. Unless you know just why it would or wouldn't. Turn it on unless your camera support is just that good, which I'm presuming it isn't.

03-08-2012, 10:27 PM	#25
telegazz Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: brisbane queensland australia Photos: Gallery Posts: 45 Original Poster	Just to elaborate I have only tried this once the only good position is on a pontoon attached to the bank (so it moves so I cant use my tripod ) so it's hand held with the boat approaching at the better part of a 100MPH I have a K20 with a 55-300 on it so I have a very small window of opportunity to get the picture generally using 400ISO center focus and center metering The problem is probably me as i'am just relearning after a 45 year lay off.

03-09-2012, 04:17 AM	#26
westmill Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Stoke on Trent Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,146	Originally posted by telegazz Just to elaborate I have only tried this once the only good position is on a pontoon attached to the bank (so it moves so I cant use my tripod ) so it's hand held with the boat approaching at the better part of a 100MPH I have a K20 with a 55-300 on it so I have a very small window of opportunity to get the picture generally using 400ISO center focus and center metering The problem is probably me as i'am just relearning after a 45 year lay off. OK ! 300mm=450mm= 500s to compensate for magnification. You then need to freeze motion on top of this... so add at least say another 500s = 1000s. That should do just fine !

03-09-2012, 06:10 AM	#27
eddie1960 Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 13,667	Originally posted by telegazz So am I correct that if I take a photo of a skier at a shutter speed of 1000th Sr is not really going to help especially if I am panning If you are panning you want to avoid SR in any case, 1/1000 should be sufficient (for the longest time 1/500 was the max on a camera and people managed to do panning shots of race cars or shots of race at night Lemans 1970 - (not mine Prsche promo pick from the steve mcqueen movie someone has up on flickr)

03-09-2012, 06:11 AM	#28
audiobomber Veteran Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Sudbury, Ontario Photos: Albums Posts: 6,806	I'm not going to bother to look it up again, but Pentax recommends to leave SR on while panning, and also while using a monopod.