Waterfalls without Polarizing filter?

smilinjenn71 · 04-11-2012, 04:30 AM

We are going to Appalachian State this weekend with our son. We want to visit a couple of waterfalls and I would love to get some pictures. I've read online that I really need a polarizing filter but I don't have one and with the time crunch, can't order online. Soooo, am I wasting my time trying to get shots of the waterfalls, without the filter? Obviously, I'll be carrying my camera anyway for other pictures but if waterfall pics will be a waste of time, I don't want to haul my tripod too.

Thanks for any and all responses! You all ROCK!
~Jenn

**Ash** · 04-11-2012, 04:39 AM

No Jenn. You won't be wasting your time shooting without that filter. You'll do just fine if you apply some consideration to the shutter speed when you're there to create effects like motion blur in the flowing water. Without a polarising filter, your blues won't be as nicely saturated and there will be more glare in your images but that's not a deal breaker in getting decent results. An even more important filter in my mind for daytime shooting of waterfalls is a neutral density filter. The tripod IMO is a must. In any case just enjoy the shoot and hope it works out for you.

smilinjenn71 · 04-11-2012, 04:54 AM

Thank you for the speedy and intelligent reply Ash! I'll follow your advice, go for it and if nothing else, learn a lot!

**Tamia** · 04-11-2012, 05:02 AM

I can only second Ash's comments, and add that I've often photographed waterfalls with nothing more than a protective UV filter. If the falls are in shade, or if you can shoot before the sun comes up or after it goes down, then you don't have as much trouble with glare. The hardest falls to shoot, whether or not you have a polarizer, are those which are partly in sun and partly in shade, especially if the shade is really dark. A graduated ND filter would be good in those conditions. Of course, you need a tripod and remote or cable shutter release for the longer exposures.

Don't forget to bracket your shots, too.

smilinjenn71 · 04-11-2012, 05:35 AM

Ummm Tamia, I'm not sure what bracketing is or how to do it.

**Tamia** · 04-11-2012, 06:03 AM

Originally posted by smilinjenn71

Ummm Tamia, I'm not sure what bracketing is or how to do it.

Bracketing is a kind of hedging your bets. To bracket, shoot a series of images of your subject while altering exposure in regular increments, underexposing or overexposing up to one or two full stops (±1.0 or ±2.0 EV), depending on conditions. This makes it more likely that at least one shot will be exactly what you're looking for.

pxpaulx · 04-11-2012, 06:15 AM

If you have a K10d or newer Pentax camera, if you look in the menu you'll find a multi-capture feature. It can take up to 9 frames, and then combine them. You'll need a tripod, but as long as you use a longer exposure and this feature, you'll be able to get reasonably long-looking exposures without a filter.

smilinjenn71 · 04-11-2012, 06:56 AM

Ooohhh OK Tamia - easy enough....thanks! I have a k-x, will have to look in the manual.

v5planet · 04-11-2012, 08:10 AM

Jenn, I have spent a looooot of time in Appalachia with my camera. Even if you don't plan to shoot waterfalls, bring a tripod if you can. It's surprisingly dark in the forest, and being forced to shoot everything at high ISO/wide aperture/slow shutter speeds is a drag.

smilinjenn71 · 04-11-2012, 08:41 AM

Originally posted by v5planet

Jenn, I have spent a looooot of time in Appalachia with my camera. Even if you don't plan to shoot waterfalls, bring a tripod if you can. It's surprisingly dark in the forest, and being forced to shoot everything at high ISO/wide aperture/slow shutter speeds is a drag.

Will do....thank you!

Medium FormatPro · 04-11-2012, 09:11 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Tamia

you need a tripod and remote or cable shutter release for the longer exposures.

Ideally good for the timing of the pic, but... If a cable release or remote is not avalable or practical - one could usually get away with the self timer setings

**TER-OR** · 04-12-2012, 05:13 AM

the timer will serve you well, even if you just set the camera on a rock instead of a tripod. Play with shutter speeds and exposures, you'll be sure to get a couple keepers.

ripit · 04-12-2012, 05:55 AM

What is the purpose of using a polarizer when shooting a waterfall in the first place?

**TER-OR** · 04-12-2012, 06:45 AM

Mostly to remove the haze from suspended water droplets and glare from wet rocks. You can also, if the flow is laminar, better see through the water to the rocks behind. If it's shady, the polarizer will be of less value.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ter-or/4765003361/in/set-72157624428671784/

This longer exposure probably would have benefited from the polarizer:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ter-or/4765003619/in/set-72157624428671784/

DaveHolmes · 04-12-2012, 07:26 PM

I have a couple of CPL's (one for each ring size) but when shooting waterfalls it's the ND filters I reach for personally...

Even without ND's it's a tripod you'll be needing more than anything...

04-11-2012, 04:30 AM	#1
smilinjenn71 Forum Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Southern USA Photos: Albums Posts: 50	Waterfalls without Polarizing filter? We are going to Appalachian State this weekend with our son. We want to visit a couple of waterfalls and I would love to get some pictures. I've read online that I really need a polarizing filter but I don't have one and with the time crunch, can't order online. Soooo, am I wasting my time trying to get shots of the waterfalls, without the filter? Obviously, I'll be carrying my camera anyway for other pictures but if waterfall pics will be a waste of time, I don't want to haul my tripod too. Thanks for any and all responses! You all ROCK! ~Jenn

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04-11-2012, 04:39 AM	#2
Ash Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Toowoomba, Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 23,920	No Jenn. You won't be wasting your time shooting without that filter. You'll do just fine if you apply some consideration to the shutter speed when you're there to create effects like motion blur in the flowing water. Without a polarising filter, your blues won't be as nicely saturated and there will be more glare in your images but that's not a deal breaker in getting decent results. An even more important filter in my mind for daytime shooting of waterfalls is a neutral density filter. The tripod IMO is a must. In any case just enjoy the shoot and hope it works out for you.

04-11-2012, 04:54 AM	#3
smilinjenn71 Forum Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Southern USA Photos: Albums Posts: 50 Original Poster	Thank you for the speedy and intelligent reply Ash! I'll follow your advice, go for it and if nothing else, learn a lot!

04-11-2012, 05:02 AM	#4
Tamia Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Here, there, and everywhere. Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,384	I can only second Ash's comments, and add that I've often photographed waterfalls with nothing more than a protective UV filter. If the falls are in shade, or if you can shoot before the sun comes up or after it goes down, then you don't have as much trouble with glare. The hardest falls to shoot, whether or not you have a polarizer, are those which are partly in sun and partly in shade, especially if the shade is really dark. A graduated ND filter would be good in those conditions. Of course, you need a tripod and remote or cable shutter release for the longer exposures. Don't forget to bracket your shots, too.

04-11-2012, 05:35 AM	#5
smilinjenn71 Forum Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Southern USA Photos: Albums Posts: 50 Original Poster	Ummm Tamia, I'm not sure what bracketing is or how to do it.

04-11-2012, 06:03 AM	#6
Tamia Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Here, there, and everywhere. Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,384	Originally posted by smilinjenn71 Ummm Tamia, I'm not sure what bracketing is or how to do it. Bracketing is a kind of hedging your bets. To bracket, shoot a series of images of your subject while altering exposure in regular increments, underexposing or overexposing up to one or two full stops (±1.0 or ±2.0 EV), depending on conditions. This makes it more likely that at least one shot will be exactly what you're looking for.

04-11-2012, 06:15 AM	#7
pxpaulx Veteran Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Twin Cities, MN Posts: 2,867	If you have a K10d or newer Pentax camera, if you look in the menu you'll find a multi-capture feature. It can take up to 9 frames, and then combine them. You'll need a tripod, but as long as you use a longer exposure and this feature, you'll be able to get reasonably long-looking exposures without a filter.

04-11-2012, 06:56 AM	#8
smilinjenn71 Forum Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Southern USA Photos: Albums Posts: 50 Original Poster	Ooohhh OK Tamia - easy enough....thanks! I have a k-x, will have to look in the manual.

04-11-2012, 08:10 AM	#9
v5planet Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Seattle Photos: Albums Posts: 1,915	Jenn, I have spent a looooot of time in Appalachia with my camera. Even if you don't plan to shoot waterfalls, bring a tripod if you can. It's surprisingly dark in the forest, and being forced to shoot everything at high ISO/wide aperture/slow shutter speeds is a drag.

04-11-2012, 08:41 AM	#10
smilinjenn71 Forum Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Southern USA Photos: Albums Posts: 50 Original Poster	Originally posted by v5planet Jenn, I have spent a looooot of time in Appalachia with my camera. Even if you don't plan to shoot waterfalls, bring a tripod if you can. It's surprisingly dark in the forest, and being forced to shoot everything at high ISO/wide aperture/slow shutter speeds is a drag. Will do....thank you!

04-11-2012, 09:11 AM - 1 Like	#11
Medium FormatPro Banned Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Charleston & Pittsburgh Photos: Albums Posts: 1,668	Originally posted by Tamia you need a tripod and remote or cable shutter release for the longer exposures. Ideally good for the timing of the pic, but... If a cable release or remote is not avalable or practical - one could usually get away with the self timer setings

04-12-2012, 05:13 AM	#12
TER-OR Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Dundee, IL Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,699	the timer will serve you well, even if you just set the camera on a rock instead of a tripod. Play with shutter speeds and exposures, you'll be sure to get a couple keepers.

04-12-2012, 05:55 AM	#13
ripit Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: NewYork Posts: 899	What is the purpose of using a polarizer when shooting a waterfall in the first place?

04-12-2012, 06:45 AM	#14
TER-OR Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Dundee, IL Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,699	Mostly to remove the haze from suspended water droplets and glare from wet rocks. You can also, if the flow is laminar, better see through the water to the rocks behind. If it's shady, the polarizer will be of less value. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ter-or/4765003361/in/set-72157624428671784/ This longer exposure probably would have benefited from the polarizer: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ter-or/4765003619/in/set-72157624428671784/

04-12-2012, 07:26 PM	#15
DaveHolmes Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 1,501	I have a couple of CPL's (one for each ring size) but when shooting waterfalls it's the ND filters I reach for personally... Even without ND's it's a tripod you'll be needing more than anything...