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04-25-2012, 09:37 PM   #16
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I'm very intrigued to see how you go!

I suppose one other outside possible option would be buying a second Holga in Pentax mount, removing the Holga lens back down to the cap/mount bit, cutting the flanges off the Nikon Diana mount and gluing them together?
Might help with the registration distance difference or even push it out beyond, though I guess the biggest issue was making sure it was glued 100% in the centre.

04-26-2012, 10:07 AM   #17
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QuoteQuote:
Eagerly awaiting the adapter,
Dave
I received the nikonF-Diana adapter I bought at Amazon.com

After a little bit of trimming it fits my Pentax PK-A mounts. I used a battery powered Dremel-like tool with a Diamond disk blade for everything described below

There is a little vertical post at the end of each of Diana's flange ears - remove them all (posts NOT ears!).

The outermost edge of the Diana adapter has a small lip underneath - remove it.

I also trimmed the leading edge of each of Diana's flange ear to encourage it to slip under Pentax's ears.

I don't know which of these was critical. But it now mounts by rotating either clockwise or counter clockwise.

It would be a good idea to figure out where to drill a hole in Diana's flange to mate with the Pentax's locking pin & paint a red dot on the Diana adapter to help mount it properly after you've drilled the locking pin hole.

Do not be afraid to do this. It is easy to do and difficult to mess up badly.

Good luck,
Dave

I apologize for no photos, but I didn't document what I was doing as I did it. It would not have been easy to document as everything was small and black.

Last edited by newarts; 04-27-2012 at 02:31 PM.
04-28-2012, 04:39 PM   #18
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Fantastic - so given it can go on either way is there enough friction while its mounted to focus the lens, or is this what you allude to with the locking pin?
I'll have to have a look at my K7 and try googling the Nikon mount to try and see the differences.

OK, so itching to hit purchase for one myself now!
Feel free to post and 'after' shots with notes if its easy - I'll be able to compare your modified one with the new one when I get mine!

Last edited by JayR; 04-28-2012 at 07:04 PM.
04-28-2012, 07:21 PM - 1 Like   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by JayR Quote
Fantastic - so given it can go on either way is there enough friction while its mounted to focus the lens, or is this what you allude to with the locking pin?
I'll have to have a look at my K7 and try googling the Nikon mount to try and see the differences.

OK, so itching to hit purchase for one myself now!
Feel free to post and 'after' shots with notes if its easy - I'll be able to compare your modified one with the new one when I get mine!
Here's what I did with the help of a Dremel tool with an abrasive disk. A medium file would work too. Please excuse the sloppy drawing - looking down on upside-down adapter:


Good luck... It'll work - mine mounts twisting either direction...

Dave

04-28-2012, 08:20 PM   #20
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Cool, I reckon I could work that out - does it lock securely though, so the mount stays still when you set the focus?

I have some brutally sharp scalpels I use for making things like architectural models occasionally. Dont have a dremel tool but will look into it...
04-29-2012, 06:33 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by JayR Quote
Cool, I reckon I could work that out - does it lock securely though, so the mount stays still when you set the focus?

I have some brutally sharp scalpels I use for making things like architectural models occasionally. Dont have a dremel tool but will look into it...
The mount seems very secure by friction but it'd be very easy to simply drill a hole in it for the camera's locking pin to engage to lock it in place.

I think you should buy yourself an inexpensive Dremel tool like thingee. I've been surprised at how handy it is and how often I use it. I have a Black & Decker battery powered knock-off tool that I like a lot. You'd find it useful in constructing Architectural models I'll bet.

You can do the job with scalpels, but it'll be tedious, the plastic is tough. Using a blade would leave a nicer finish than I left with a high speed abrasive wheel! My finished product looks like it was attacked by a viscous Rottweiler except the gouges aren't as smooth.

A dentist's high speed handset makes a great tool for precision modeling work - that's what dentists use it for! Dentists are an amazing group of precision modelers - they routinely free-hand machine hard, small things to around a micrometer tolerance! In someone's mouth! Yikes!
05-01-2012, 06:13 PM   #22
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Well once Ive mastered the process, I'll document it and post it here on the Pentax Forums and probably the Pentax subsection of AusPhotography
05-09-2012, 04:51 AM   #23
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Received the modified Nikon adapter today, thanks Newarts!
I also got my brand new Nikon F Diana adapter yesterday, so will be sure to document the process to make it suitable for Pentax mount and post it on PentaxForums when I have enough time.

01-17-2013, 09:00 PM   #24
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I finally decided to get a Nikon adapter and try modifying it for my Pentax cameras. I found it to be easier than I thought it would be, and I wish I had done this years ago. All I did was remove the lip described in newarts' sketch. I didn't find it necessary to remove the posts or to chamfer the ears. In this case, the adapter is secured to the camera by turning it in the reverse direction than a standard lens. Keeping the posts allows them to act as a stop and prevents the adapter from being rotated so far that it becomes unmounted again. The adapter mounts more securely to the camera than the lens does to the adapter .

Removing the lip is a simple process. All you need is a 1/4"-20 bolt and nut, a drill, and a file. The center hole in the adapter is just the right size for the 1/4" bolt. Slide the bolt through the hole in the adapter and then thread the nut onto the bolt and tighten it enough to hold the adapter snugly (don't overtighten -- the adapter is a stiff plastic and feels like it could be susceptible to cracking if overstressed). Mount the bolt in the drill's chuck as if it were a drill bit. Now you have a handheld lathe that you can use to spin the adapter as you hold the file against the lip and gradually file it off. Easy peasy, but be sure to clean all of the plastic filings from the adapter when you're done. Thank you, newarts, for inspiring me to finally give this a try!
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