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06-16-2012, 01:17 PM   #1
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K5 sent back for 'mirror slop' problem but came back with much worse problem

Hi. My k5 developed the Mirror Flop issue about a month ago and since i wanted to get my sensor cleaned anyway i sent it back to Pentax to have both sorted. After three weeks I received my camera yesterday with new shutter block and a nice clean sensor and no sign of the previous mirror flop problem. However now there is a much worse problem as the autofocus is way off in every shot. I tried several lenses and none would focus and into the mix every shot was way way overexposed too. I had no problems in this regard before but now it is unusable in autofocus and in some cases when i dialed in as much as -5 EV i was still getting overexposure in a scene where previously i might have had slight underexposure. In the note that came with camera it said that they updated the firmware and performed some calibration as well as the requested fixes. They have agreed to pick it up on Tuesday but i am wondering does anyone know here if i can restore the firmware to see if that makes any difference as i dont want to be without my only camera again for a couple of weeks or however long it takes. Any help would be much appreciated!

06-16-2012, 10:15 PM   #2
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As far as I know, a user can't roll back to a previous firmware version.

Overexposure might indicate that your aperture does not close down during the exposure; you might be able to check that by looking into the lens while taking a photo. Put it to f/16 and take the shot, you should see the aperture close down.
06-17-2012, 08:28 AM   #3
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Did you try a reset to factory settings? Posting pictures, with Exif intact, to demonstrated the problem would help.
06-17-2012, 08:55 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Marc Sabatella Quote
Did you try a reset to factory settings? Posting pictures, with Exif intact, to demonstrated the problem would help.
I agree, and I'd even want to pop one photo into PhotoME to see what came back from many of the camera settings. You would think they would have reset all the settings, but it also isn't obvious which version of the firmware they would have installed.

06-17-2012, 09:08 AM   #5
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You can check the firmware by holding down the menu button and then turning it on. Generally they do reset everything to factory defaults. They also generally calibrate everything that can be calibrated (like focus) so it is conceivable they just screwed that up.
06-17-2012, 03:30 PM   #6
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Thanks all for replying! Sorry i haven't had a chance to get on here to check till now unfortunately. Sterrejte, thansk i will try that out. Marc and MSL i will try to get some photos up to show the problem. I normally post photos direct from Flickr so will work out how to post here with EXIF intact to help. I am not PhotoME but will try and check that out now. VonBaloney i just checked the firmware there and it is ver 1.13. Yeah they definitely did reset everything to factory settings as when i turned it on it was like starting up brand new with having to enter date and time.
06-17-2012, 03:49 PM   #7
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Here are three shots which show the problem. I am no photography expert but ive had no problems with focus before and my exposure never behaved like this. I also just noticed that i entered the year of the date incorrectly when i was setting upon receiving lens back (i hope that didn't cause any problems).







I looked at PhotoME but i could only see a windows version and i run on a mac.

Thanks for anyone who can advise!

The EXIF data was on the links where i posted. Here are the URLs if that is the only way you can see them:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/gallery/photo-k5-problems-image-2-34328/

https://www.pentaxforums.com/gallery/photo-k5-problems-image-1-34327/

https://www.pentaxforums.com/gallery/photo-k5-problems-image-3-34329/
06-17-2012, 04:09 PM   #8
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I'll take a look now. Do you shoot raw and convert to JPG, or shoot directly to JPG?

2 reasons for asking - 1 to check if it is the way the sensor is picking up the image which will be more honestly reflected in the RAW and 2 because you can get a lot more our of the EXIF data of a RAW, as far as I know.

06-18-2012, 07:08 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by MSL Quote
I'll take a look now. Do you shoot raw and convert to JPG, or shoot directly to JPG?

2 reasons for asking - 1 to check if it is the way the sensor is picking up the image which will be more honestly reflected in the RAW and 2 because you can get a lot more our of the EXIF data of a RAW, as far as I know.
I shoot RAW and only converted to JPEG so it can fit the 2mb upload limit. What other EXIF info is maintained with RAW?
06-18-2012, 09:10 AM   #10
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I've sent you a sample file. At least from the JPG you generate, PhotoME doesn't extract much, but from the RAW you learn everything about the camera. I just checked the JPG that FastStone generates from my RAW files, and it seems to have preserved a lot more of the camera data than what I could see from your JPG. But it could be a PC/MAC thing yet again...

I'm not a tech expert, certainly not for digital cameras. But the histograms show a huge spike at 255 - its like 90% of the image is a blow highlight. So unless you are doing something bizarre with the settings and not realizing it - like shooting in M mode and not checking the metering, there seems to be a real problem that will need servicing. I'd try shooting in P without any exposure compensation, and for a range of lighting scenes just to be sure, and maybe even a flash photo or two, just to test everything, but I do think this is a simple problem.
06-18-2012, 09:42 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by MSL Quote
I've sent you a sample file. At least from the JPG you generate, PhotoME doesn't extract much, but from the RAW you learn everything about the camera. I just checked the JPG that FastStone generates from my RAW files, and it seems to have preserved a lot more of the camera data than what I could see from your JPG. But it could be a PC/MAC thing yet again...

I'm not a tech expert, certainly not for digital cameras. But the histograms show a huge spike at 255 - its like 90% of the image is a blow highlight. So unless you are doing something bizarre with the settings and not realizing it - like shooting in M mode and not checking the metering, there seems to be a real problem that will need servicing. I'd try shooting in P without any exposure compensation, and for a range of lighting scenes just to be sure, and maybe even a flash photo or two, just to test everything, but I do think this is a simple problem.
Thank you very much taking the time to give me a bit of help here Marc! I am not a photography expert and i'm certainly not a tech expert either but focusing and metering have never been a problem with me on the K5 before. I shoot in Aperture priority 80 percent of the time and have more often than not had slight underexposure before my camera was sent for repair. I tried shooting in P indoors as you suggested in a scene with very little dynamic range and still there is horrible drastic overexposure and the image is completely 'mushy' and not remotely in focus either. With the flash the results were appalling also. I kind of thought that this would have to be handled by Pentax themselves but was trying on here in the off chance that going back to previous firmware would have made a difference. I really appreciate you taking the time to help good sir! Much obliged!
06-18-2012, 10:20 AM   #12
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Wish I could have found a simple fix, but looks like a real problem that they need to solve. I never went to firmware 1.13. My camera came with 1.01, and as 1.12 had just come out I upgraded to that, but did not see a need to go 1.13 since very little changed.

Since tests don't cost anything but time, here are a couple more thoughts. An earlier poster asked if the lens was stopping down correctly. How about the reverse test - deliberately take a shot with the lens wide open and see what you get. Also, have you tried test shots with more than one lens? (yes, I'm grasping at straws, and I don't expect things to suddenly work, but I'm an engineer/scientist by training and I can't escape that)

Otherwise at this stage I'd send these images to the folks who serviced your camera and get them involved.
06-18-2012, 10:56 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by MSL Quote
Wish I could have found a simple fix, but looks like a real problem that they need to solve. I never went to firmware 1.13. My camera came with 1.01, and as 1.12 had just come out I upgraded to that, but did not see a need to go 1.13 since very little changed.
Except all the stuff they change/fix that they don't tell you about in the release notes. Minor fixes will be added without comment. Some even say that the most recent versions of the same firmware number will have changed from the initial release.
06-18-2012, 11:07 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by vonBaloney Quote
Except all the stuff they change/fix that they don't tell you about in the release notes. Minor fixes will be added without comment. Some even say that the most recent versions of the same firmware number will have changed from the initial release.
Point taken. And that is one reason I didn't rush from 1.12 to 1.13. If you look at the revision history, in the jump to 1.03 one big thing they fixed/improved was low light auto focus. For that reason, upgrading from 1.01 seemed a good thing to do, even though 1.12 was fairly new at the time. At this stage, I'll get around to upgrading to 1.13 but my sense was to let others be the gineau pigs.
06-18-2012, 01:06 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by MSL Quote
Wish I could have found a simple fix, but looks like a real problem that they need to solve. I never went to firmware 1.13. My camera came with 1.01, and as 1.12 had just come out I upgraded to that, but did not see a need to go 1.13 since very little changed.

Since tests don't cost anything but time, here are a couple more thoughts. An earlier poster asked if the lens was stopping down correctly. How about the reverse test - deliberately take a shot with the lens wide open and see what you get. Also, have you tried test shots with more than one lens? (yes, I'm grasping at straws, and I don't expect things to suddenly work, but I'm an engineer/scientist by training and I can't escape that)

Otherwise at this stage I'd send these images to the folks who serviced your camera and get them involved.
Well i really appreciate all the effort that went to Marc! i tried all manner of things suggested there with wide open shooting etc but with still similar results. I have it packed up and ready to be collected by DSL tomorrow and they said they would treat it as urgent so hopefully i wont be waiting too long before it's return. As you suggested, i included a CD with many samples shot with three different lenses to show them how it performed.

Thanks again Marc!
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