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07-18-2012, 09:29 AM   #1
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How to reduce sun flair?

I have been shooting as of late with the subjects back to the sun. I spot meter on the subject and take the shot (lens hood on)
Is there any tips on how to improve the contrast on the persons face? I have been trying to get the rim lighting effect which has been working well... but when I brighten the face a bit in photoshop I get a slight "washed out" look... increasing contrast in PS only seems to darken the image instead of giving it more contrast

any ideas?

mainly trying mid day Technical shots for (hopefully) upcoming photo shoots

thanks

randy

07-18-2012, 10:13 AM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by slip Quote
I have been shooting as of late with the subjects back to the sun. I spot meter on the subject and take the shot (lens hood on)
Is there any tips on how to improve the contrast on the persons face? I have been trying to get the rim lighting effect which has been working well... but when I brighten the face a bit in photoshop I get a slight "washed out" look... increasing contrast in PS only seems to darken the image instead of giving it more contrast

any ideas?

mainly trying mid day Technical shots for (hopefully) upcoming photo shoots

thanks

randy
Have you ever considered using flash when doing backlit subjects, especially people?

Just a thought.

JP
07-18-2012, 10:25 AM   #3
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+1 to what jpzk said. Fill flash works well.
07-18-2012, 10:32 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by jpzk Quote
Have you ever considered using flash when doing backlit subjects, especially people?

Just a thought.

JP
yep, I have tried but I am trying to do some other methods like different positions, etc

thanks!

randy

07-18-2012, 10:32 AM   #5
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it helps to choose a lens with a minimum of elements (e.g., a tessar with 4 elements, or one with 5 elements--the 40 mm, 50mm f/4, and 35 mm f 3.5 come to mind--not sure about newer lenses), also more open fstop--less internal reflections, and try different lenses--some will do better than others.
07-18-2012, 11:02 AM   #6
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If you use fill flash, set your shutter speed as high as you can. If you have a HSS capable flash you can really kill off the daylight at say 1/500th yet the picture will still look very natural, and "non flashy". You can of course position the sun behind the camera instead of the subject, but then you lose all the nice edge lighting and your subjects start to squint.


07-18-2012, 02:03 PM   #7
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if rim light from the sun is a must, just change your angle a bit to either side or shoot at a slightly earlier time. this way, you keep the sun out of your frame and blocked by your hood
in some cases, some lenses are simply better with dealing with flare. The tamron 17-50 replaced my DA*16-50 partly because of this (funnily enough, that exact DA* is now the one you see in Heie's WR torture test)
07-18-2012, 04:50 PM   #8
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Can you post a sample to play with?

07-19-2012, 11:13 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
Can you post a sample to play with?


just a quick example

thanks

randy
07-19-2012, 05:53 PM   #10
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is this what you are looking for?

just applied an S profile to the contrast curve in PSP X4.

not sure how you would do it in photoshop, but this gives what I think you want, good color and contrast in the face, with the fringes of the haid burned out just a little. overall, if you consider a straight line from 0-255 on the contrast curve, I lowered the slope below the middle, and raised it significantly int he top quarter, with a smooth transition between the two sections
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07-19-2012, 07:30 PM   #11
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Here's my quick try in LR3, took about 30 seconds:

Fill light +61, Contrast +28, Clarity +56, Aqua -87, Blue -100.

07-20-2012, 02:04 PM   #12
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here's my attempt. on that note, i see none of the flare you're talking about aside from the bit on the bottom of the frame, the subject is quite a bit underexposed though IMO

07-22-2012, 09:13 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by adpo Quote
here's my attempt. on that note, i see none of the flare you're talking about aside from the bit on the bottom of the frame, the subject is quite a bit underexposed though IMO
yes, but it is underexposed to try to minimize blowout, but yes this isn't the best photo, I will try to dig up another one

thanks

randy
07-22-2012, 03:00 PM   #14
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I suspect in general you'll find your problem isn't flare - it's simply the result of trying to brighten an underexposed image using a very basic brightening tool. Not sure what software you use, but many program have algorithms that are sophisticated than a simple across-the-board brightening - you might want to consult the documentation for your software. Here for comparison is a very simply three-click adjustment using ACDSee Pro's Fill Light and Lighting tools.
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