In addition to that I will make some observations that I have made before in another thread...
I went to a baseball game that was lit artificially. I was 17 rows up from the field...and with my K-5 I never was able to drop it below ISO 3200 using a 300mm Pentax DAL... most shots were less than 1/500 and under 1/200 or so gave the best results for the image but didn't get the speed I needed.
I ended up buying a Tamron 70-200mm F2.8....this helped a lot...but you have to shoot wide open and you can get better shutter speeds out of the deal but its not the main or only fix by any means.
The real trick though I have found is proximity to subject. The lighting might 'appear' to be good, but its really not.
Lumens of light for example from artificial lights pale in comparison to even a overcast day under the sun...there is simply not the same amount of light energy present in artificial lights...if you put in X amount of amps/watts etc etc into a light bulb of any kind...A) it doesn't transmit near the amount of energy the sun would B) the light bulbs (except special ones) do not give off all spectrums of light...
It may sound off topic but its not... but try growing a tomato plant under a light bulb vs out in the sun... I have done it and it doesn't work.This is directly transferrable over to photography. Those energy light waves matter. You can't see them, but they matter. Its like comparing a candle light to the headlight of your car when on high beam...
Generally indoor sports are lit so that the participants can see...hence the lighting on the floor near or on the arena is going to be totally different than that when you are up in the stands. In addition to being a weak light source the light you are seeing is reflected which makes it even weaker...
The main solution is to try and get closer to the action when shooting under artificial lights...of course this effects the vantage point you have and so on and so forth...but the truth is the light on the field/floor/ring is way better actually on the field/floor/ring than it is 20 rows up....
If you light one small lightbulb in a room you can see just fine with it... but take a picture and it will show that the lighting is weak even though you can 'see' just fine...
Long story short--- you need to be closer. A lot closer to get the speeds you want.
On a side note I am not a professional by any means, but I have been doing a fair amount of trial and error as part of my learning process.
The major factors of light: 1. Quantity of light (artificial lights cannot give off more light energy than is put into them--its physics) 2. Quality of light 3. Distance from source to subject then to camera lens 4. Direction of light...
All factors must be accounted for... but you don't have control over 1. 2. and pnly a little over #4. #3 is the biggest factor....
Originally posted by Zandroido BTW Ring is full of light and i'm in full dark outside. Is that making any difference? Or making problems or something?
Yes, this is precisely one of the points I was trying to make above.