K1000 Shutter trip technique

**arnold** · 08-31-2012, 03:29 AM

I noticed something on the K1000 when I did a gentle squeeze on the release button. The shutter would fire, but the mirror didn't move. This only happened when doing a slow squeeze. A faster push tripped the mirror, no matter the speed selected. I then put it on Bulb, and noticed that the shutter tripped first (odd??), then as I continued depressing farther, the mirror would follow. Surely the mirror is supposed to move up first and then the shutter trip. It seems the button must be fully depressed in order to trip the mirror. Any ideas about this?
I might just add that this was with the lens off but it's the same with the lens on.

Last edited by arnold; 08-31-2012 at 03:40 AM.

MysteryOnion · 08-31-2012, 07:39 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by arnold

urely the mirror is supposed to move up first and then the shutter trip

I like calling it the Pentax flick... it is possible to do on many of the Pentax mechanical bodies that use the similar design. MX, KM, KX, K1000, Spotmatic I & II and pre-Spotties can do it too as long as it is a mechanical one with no automation to the shutter. The mechanism is a two part action rather than a sequential one or in other words...

...mirror up- release shutter, but instead for some pentax bodies...
...mirror up- release blocker- shutter may fire -full press, fire shutter.

If you poise your finger at the edge of the release button and flick the tip of your finger off the button, then the mirror will do that for all listed above.
On some that can't, it seems that the release rod is set too tight, but on all my bodies I seem to easily do this every time.

Hope that helped.

**TomB_tx** · 08-31-2012, 09:14 AM - **1 Like**

The shutter should never release if the mirror isn't in the up position. As Onion indicated, sometimes the release latches are adjusted a bit off so that a slow push may release the mirror but not the shutter, but the shutter should be interlocked by a mechanism that senses the mirror at the top position. I don't have my K1000 handy, but most models have a lever or pin that the mirror hits as it reaches the full-up position, and that pin releases the shutter. It should be on the side of the housing, probably near the back of the mirror. I'd guess on yours the pin is stuck in the released position, so the shutter can fire off the button without the mirror rising.
You should be able to take the lens off, hold the mirror down on the lower edge with your finger (not on the mirror portion), release the shutter button any-which-way-you-can, and the shutter should not fire until you let the mirror reach the top.

**arnold** · 08-31-2012, 03:50 PM

I see nothing in the area that the mirror can make contact with. The sequencing mechanism must be inside, and from what you both say (thank you for your help) the mirror position is being ignored. In my case, I can hold the mirror down and the shutter is quite happy to fire away. The interlock is not working, and I don't know if it is easily accessible for me to check..

MysteryOnion · 08-31-2012, 04:56 PM

Originally posted by arnold

I don't know if it is easily accessible for me to check..

To see much of that requires the removal of the mount and face plate and that means lifting the leatherett and unscrewing 4 screws... not a casual task.

**arnold** · 08-31-2012, 05:34 PM

Originally posted by MysteryOnion

To see much of that requires the removal of the mount and face plate and that means lifting the leatherett and unscrewing 4 screws... not a casual task.

Thank you. I didn't think it would be easy, but was hoping anyway. Somehow, I don't find broken cameras inspiring, but unfortunately fixes often cost more than a camera is worth. It's not that I don't have enough usable cameras, but that I like my cameras to be as functional as possible. An overhaul costs $120 about. I will wait awhile.

MysteryOnion · 09-01-2012, 06:17 AM

Originally posted by arnold

Somehow, I don't find broken cameras inspiring, but unfortunately fixes often cost more than a camera is worth. It's not that I don't have enough usable cameras, but that I like my cameras to be as functional as possible.

I do understand and that is why camera repair is a hobby I've been working on, just I can keep all these cameras in working order. So far, the issues that seems common on KM, KX, K1000 after a certain length of time is grime inside the bottom and dried out or gummy grease in the mirror cage. In some cases, the linkage to the release rod is loose and the 'let-off' is wrong. It will create all sorts of odd behavior in different models.

**arnold** · 09-01-2012, 06:51 AM

I bought this second hand, and it has not had a lot of use from what I can see, but it has sat around, probably buried in a box stashed somewhere. When I picked it up, I had to ask them to find the rest of the ERC and lens cases, which they were surprised to find they still had. Anyway, it is in lovely cosmetic condition. My guess is that the release needs adjusting so that it trips the mirror THEN the shutter. I opened the bottom, and the camera looks quite clean there, but that is not where the problem is. I don't mind trying to fix things, but without some guidance, I will most likely just make things worse. Pulling the leather off is not something I want to try. I have very old Spotmatics, and they are fine. A touch of oil on one cured a sticking mirror.

MysteryOnion · 09-01-2012, 07:37 AM - **1 Like**

For the day you are looking to try fixing...

Gray arrow indicates the rod movement.
Blue arrow is the plate that is adjustable.
Red arrow is the point where plate contact the mirror release and chances are that it is set too far down.

**arnold** · 09-01-2012, 03:17 PM

Wow, that is a bit like I imagined it would be, but had no idea what it actually looked like. This is most helpful, and if I knew how to get to it, a rather simple fix. Thank you very much for the information. Does one pull back the leather and undo what looks to be a cover with three screws? Wondering where the shutter release is.

Taking another look at it, do you mean too far UP rather than down? Don't you want the mirror to trip first?

MysteryOnion · 09-01-2012, 04:27 PM

Well, you still need to remove the two front leatherettes.
1 . You don't have to remove the top shell/deck, but you'll need to remove the rewind side to access the screws to loosen.
a. Procedure to the rewind knob...
1. open film door
2. wedge the film cartridge prongs to hold stationary the shaft
3. spin the rewind know counter
4. clockwise- spin off base.
b. Loosen or unscrew the screws on the rewind side.
c. set aside the retention plate underneath.

2. You will need to unscrew the four corner screws to the face plate and the smaller screw just under the last zero of the 1000.
3. Caution when prying up the face, the black plastic trim under the 'Pentax' name should be eased off as well.
4. When face plate is loosened and brought out, caution again, the wire to the aperture potentiometer/A-volume.

Note the set distance of the tab prior to unscrewing to as to find a corrected new setting.
Loosen the screw to give some movement and adjust until proper release is achieved.

When successfully adjusted, closing up you'll need to be careful again with the wires and inserting the plastic trim in the correct direction.

**arnold** · 09-01-2012, 06:57 PM

I see, the whole front comes off then. Getting the leather off without mucking it up then becomes my biggest fear. I'm not short of usable Pentax's, so may just hold off on this in case I damage it.

**arnold** · 11-15-2012, 06:38 PM

Just an update. I sent this out for repair, and here is information I received:
I've got that K1000 apart on the bench. That problem was caused by chips of decaying foam light-seal blocking the action of various components, when they fell into the works, hence the weird effects.

I'll clean everything and replace the problem seals.

**arnold** · 11-15-2012, 09:17 PM

This is how much the K1000 has been pulled apart. You need to know what you are doing, and this would have been beyond me.

08-31-2012, 03:29 AM	#1
arnold Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,299	K1000 Shutter trip technique I noticed something on the K1000 when I did a gentle squeeze on the release button. The shutter would fire, but the mirror didn't move. This only happened when doing a slow squeeze. A faster push tripped the mirror, no matter the speed selected. I then put it on Bulb, and noticed that the shutter tripped first (odd??), then as I continued depressing farther, the mirror would follow. Surely the mirror is supposed to move up first and then the shutter trip. It seems the button must be fully depressed in order to trip the mirror. Any ideas about this? I might just add that this was with the lens off but it's the same with the lens on. Last edited by arnold; 08-31-2012 at 03:40 AM.

08-31-2012, 07:39 AM - 1 Like	#2
MysteryOnion Giveaway winner! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: beantown Photos: Albums Posts: 944	Originally posted by arnold urely the mirror is supposed to move up first and then the shutter trip I like calling it the Pentax flick... it is possible to do on many of the Pentax mechanical bodies that use the similar design. MX, KM, KX, K1000, Spotmatic I & II and pre-Spotties can do it too as long as it is a mechanical one with no automation to the shutter. The mechanism is a two part action rather than a sequential one or in other words... ...mirror up- release shutter, but instead for some pentax bodies... ...mirror up- release blocker- shutter may fire -full press, fire shutter. If you poise your finger at the edge of the release button and flick the tip of your finger off the button, then the mirror will do that for all listed above. On some that can't, it seems that the release rod is set too tight, but on all my bodies I seem to easily do this every time. Hope that helped. Last edited by MysteryOnion; 08-31-2012 at 11:08 AM.

09-01-2012, 03:17 PM	#10
arnold Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,299 Original Poster	Wow, that is a bit like I imagined it would be, but had no idea what it actually looked like. This is most helpful, and if I knew how to get to it, a rather simple fix. Thank you very much for the information. Does one pull back the leather and undo what looks to be a cover with three screws? Wondering where the shutter release is. Taking another look at it, do you mean too far UP rather than down? Don't you want the mirror to trip first? Last edited by arnold; 09-01-2012 at 03:22 PM.

11-15-2012, 09:17 PM	#14
arnold Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,299 Original Poster	This is how much the K1000 has been pulled apart. You need to know what you are doing, and this would have been beyond me. Attached Images

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08-31-2012, 09:14 AM - 1 Like	#3
TomB_tx Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Texas Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,446	The shutter should never release if the mirror isn't in the up position. As Onion indicated, sometimes the release latches are adjusted a bit off so that a slow push may release the mirror but not the shutter, but the shutter should be interlocked by a mechanism that senses the mirror at the top position. I don't have my K1000 handy, but most models have a lever or pin that the mirror hits as it reaches the full-up position, and that pin releases the shutter. It should be on the side of the housing, probably near the back of the mirror. I'd guess on yours the pin is stuck in the released position, so the shutter can fire off the button without the mirror rising. You should be able to take the lens off, hold the mirror down on the lower edge with your finger (not on the mirror portion), release the shutter button any-which-way-you-can, and the shutter should not fire until you let the mirror reach the top.

08-31-2012, 03:50 PM	#4
arnold Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,299 Original Poster	I see nothing in the area that the mirror can make contact with. The sequencing mechanism must be inside, and from what you both say (thank you for your help) the mirror position is being ignored. In my case, I can hold the mirror down and the shutter is quite happy to fire away. The interlock is not working, and I don't know if it is easily accessible for me to check..

08-31-2012, 04:56 PM	#5
MysteryOnion Giveaway winner! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: beantown Photos: Albums Posts: 944	Originally posted by arnold I don't know if it is easily accessible for me to check.. To see much of that requires the removal of the mount and face plate and that means lifting the leatherett and unscrewing 4 screws... not a casual task.

08-31-2012, 05:34 PM	#6
arnold Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,299 Original Poster	Originally posted by MysteryOnion To see much of that requires the removal of the mount and face plate and that means lifting the leatherett and unscrewing 4 screws... not a casual task. Thank you. I didn't think it would be easy, but was hoping anyway. Somehow, I don't find broken cameras inspiring, but unfortunately fixes often cost more than a camera is worth. It's not that I don't have enough usable cameras, but that I like my cameras to be as functional as possible. An overhaul costs $120 about. I will wait awhile.

09-01-2012, 06:17 AM	#7
MysteryOnion Giveaway winner! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: beantown Photos: Albums Posts: 944	Originally posted by arnold Somehow, I don't find broken cameras inspiring, but unfortunately fixes often cost more than a camera is worth. It's not that I don't have enough usable cameras, but that I like my cameras to be as functional as possible. I do understand and that is why camera repair is a hobby I've been working on, just I can keep all these cameras in working order. So far, the issues that seems common on KM, KX, K1000 after a certain length of time is grime inside the bottom and dried out or gummy grease in the mirror cage. In some cases, the linkage to the release rod is loose and the 'let-off' is wrong. It will create all sorts of odd behavior in different models.

09-01-2012, 06:51 AM	#8
arnold Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,299 Original Poster	I bought this second hand, and it has not had a lot of use from what I can see, but it has sat around, probably buried in a box stashed somewhere. When I picked it up, I had to ask them to find the rest of the ERC and lens cases, which they were surprised to find they still had. Anyway, it is in lovely cosmetic condition. My guess is that the release needs adjusting so that it trips the mirror THEN the shutter. I opened the bottom, and the camera looks quite clean there, but that is not where the problem is. I don't mind trying to fix things, but without some guidance, I will most likely just make things worse. Pulling the leather off is not something I want to try. I have very old Spotmatics, and they are fine. A touch of oil on one cured a sticking mirror.

09-01-2012, 07:37 AM - 1 Like	#9
MysteryOnion Giveaway winner! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: beantown Photos: Albums Posts: 944	For the day you are looking to try fixing... Gray arrow indicates the rod movement. Blue arrow is the plate that is adjustable. Red arrow is the point where plate contact the mirror release and chances are that it is set too far down.

09-01-2012, 04:27 PM	#11
MysteryOnion Giveaway winner! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: beantown Photos: Albums Posts: 944	Well, you still need to remove the two front leatherettes. 1 . You don't have to remove the top shell/deck, but you'll need to remove the rewind side to access the screws to loosen. a. Procedure to the rewind knob... 1. open film door 2. wedge the film cartridge prongs to hold stationary the shaft 3. spin the rewind know counter 4. clockwise- spin off base. b. Loosen or unscrew the screws on the rewind side. c. set aside the retention plate underneath. 2. You will need to unscrew the four corner screws to the face plate and the smaller screw just under the last zero of the 1000. 3. Caution when prying up the face, the black plastic trim under the 'Pentax' name should be eased off as well. 4. When face plate is loosened and brought out, caution again, the wire to the aperture potentiometer/A-volume. Note the set distance of the tab prior to unscrewing to as to find a corrected new setting. Loosen the screw to give some movement and adjust until proper release is achieved. When successfully adjusted, closing up you'll need to be careful again with the wires and inserting the plastic trim in the correct direction.

09-01-2012, 06:57 PM	#12
arnold Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,299 Original Poster	I see, the whole front comes off then. Getting the leather off without mucking it up then becomes my biggest fear. I'm not short of usable Pentax's, so may just hold off on this in case I damage it.

11-15-2012, 06:38 PM	#13
arnold Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,299 Original Poster	Just an update. I sent this out for repair, and here is information I received: I've got that K1000 apart on the bench. That problem was caused by chips of decaying foam light-seal blocking the action of various components, when they fell into the works, hence the weird effects. I'll clean everything and replace the problem seals.