ist DL having issues .....

ColdCougar · 09-12-2012, 12:49 PM

Hey guys ... new to the site (but I did lurk for a while) ... this past weekend my DL went haywire ... It worked fine on Friday was put in the bag and on sunday (at a car show \: ) it was fubar. Basically what happens in that the picture is real dark and any of the brighter surfaces are magenta. I have attached an example. ANY help would be appreciated ... I am worried that I will have to get a new camera body .........

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

pxpaulx · 09-12-2012, 01:05 PM

Could be a heat related issue (was the camera in the bag in the car between friday and sunday, and was it very hot?), but also likely linked to age as well. Smarter minds will likely have a more clear answer and possibly a solution! Good luck!

wombat2go · 09-12-2012, 01:07 PM

It has lost green channel. Do you see same on rear lcd?
If problem is at sensor level, probably not worth while to repair. I read that on these cameras, the mother board contains mappings for its particular sensor, so the sensor can't be changed without the factory software to re map.

ColdCougar · 09-12-2012, 04:56 PM

pxPaulx -- No the camera was inside the house.

I know y'all don't know me yet so .. I am a computer tech and know the effects of heat on electronics. Also I did some trouble shooting, I shot in 4 or 5 different modes used 2 different lenses and SD cards played with the settings in shutter and aperture priority.

Wombat (thats funny I have a friend on another forum that has Wombat as his screen name) ... I was worried about that and half expecting to have to pick up another camera body.

Thanks guys for your responses

ColdCougar · 09-12-2012, 05:02 PM

on the other hand it DOES have a cool effect sometimes LOL

ColdCougar · 09-12-2012, 05:05 PM

OH and ... (because I can't edit yet ........ ) Wombat -- yes the pictures show up the same on the LCD

**paulh** · 09-12-2012, 05:18 PM

Originally posted by ColdCougar

OH and ... (because I can't edit yet ........ ) Wombat -- yes the pictures show up the same on the LCD

That doesn't sound good - seems like there's been a number of threads lately from DL owners saying they're having problems. My *istD is even older than your DL, but so far, so good (knock on wood). Unfortunately, these older models just aren't worth paying for repair. If you're strapped for cash, you can pick up a used *istD_ or K100D for next to nothing these days, & keep your green-channel deprived DL for "special projects"

Last edited by paulh; 09-12-2012 at 05:58 PM.

wombat2go · 09-12-2012, 05:43 PM

If you are tempted to tear it down:
There is a - I think you would agree only small- chance that it it could be a cured by re-inserting the 2 sensor bus connectors
I repaired a ist ds last weekend , it was 5 unpleasant hours but now I have another working body.

1. All the body screws are different lengths, I made a chart of the lengths a so you can put it back together along with the order of dis-assembly.
I can post a link if you want.
2. The top cover has umpteen small soldered wires and I found it impossible not to have some break at the solder pads just by movement as you work on the back. (solder was lead free and I think brittle) .
So you have to be able to solder them back on.
If I ever do it again, I would make a jig to hold the top cover steady in a lifted position
3. The flash capacitor stays up forever, so it needs to be discharged with a resistor.
4. To unplug the main sensor flex bus you have to pull out the mother board which entails un- re- soldering about 14 wires.
5. You have to examine the main switch contacts with a loupe last thing before assembly to make sure they are all parallel otherwise the power switch can be intermittent. The power switch relies on the 2 battery chamber screws pulling the top cover down perfectly.

ColdCougar · 09-12-2012, 08:15 PM

Originally posted by paulh

That doesn't sound good - seems like there's been a number of threads lately from DL owners saying they're having problems. My *istD is even older than your DL, but so far, so good (knock on wood). Unfortunately, these older models just aren't worth paying for repair. If you're strapped for cash, you can pick up a used *istD_ or K100D for next to nothing these days, & keep your green-channel deprived DL for "special projects"

Yep I am watching 2 right now ... and that sounds like an idea LOL

Originally posted by wombat2go

If you are tempted to tear it down:
There is a - I think you would agree only small- chance that it it could be a cured by re-inserting the 2 sensor bus connectors
I repaired a ist ds last weekend , it was 5 unpleasant hours but now I have another working body.

1. All the body screws are different lengths, I made a chart of the lengths a so you can put it back together along with the order of dis-assembly.
I can post a link if you want.
2. The top cover has umpteen small soldered wires and I found it impossible not to have some break at the solder pads just by movement as you work on the back. (solder was lead free and I think brittle) .
So you have to be able to solder them back on.
If I ever do it again, I would make a jig to hold the top cover steady in a lifted position
3. The flash capacitor stays up forever, so it needs to be discharged with a resistor.
4. To unplug the main sensor flex bus you have to pull out the mother board which entails un- re- soldering about 14 wires.
5. You have to examine the main switch contacts with a loupe last thing before assembly to make sure they are all parallel otherwise the power switch can be intermittent. The power switch relies on the 2 battery chamber screws pulling the top cover down perfectly.

hmmm ... doesnt sound like something I am comfortable with ... I can solder but not good enough for that small of a wire (I'm too messy) ... you want a body for parts (cheap-ish)?? LOL

ColdCougar · 09-19-2012, 07:28 PM

OK ... FIRST: I would like to thank all who offered their expertise.

SECOND: I resolved the situation ... .I ebayed (has that REALLY been made into a verb ...,., smh) a K100D ... I decided I wanted to upgrade and this camera was within my price range (which at this moment is, unfortunately, pretty low). I won the auction on Saturday and received it today. so far I REALLY like it (although I havent done much with it admittedly except play with the autofocus "points"). That being said ... do you think I should offer the DL up for "repair or parts"?? and how much should I REALISTICALLY expect to get out of it ... it does have a crack in the top next to the mode dial.

gp1806 · 09-20-2012, 06:31 AM

The crack near the mode dial will hurt the value. List it for 99 cents opening bid and let it go. Add a fair shipping charge that you will not lose money on. Don't expect much money, maybe $30. Or as Paul says 'keep it for special projects'.

**tomwil** · 09-20-2012, 08:25 AM

Originally posted by wombat2go

It has lost green channel.

Is it really the green channel? I see green trees in the pic. Is it possibly the blue channel that is lost instead (although I do see blue in the pic also)?

Interesting effect!

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Still looking for PEF images from a K2000, ist DL2 and ist DS2	Aaron	Pentax DSLR Discussion	2	05-24-2012 10:59 PM
Looking for PEF images from K2000, ist DL2, & ist DS2	Aaron	Pentax DSLR Discussion	2	04-18-2012 11:01 PM
*ist DL Picture issues	alibean	Pentax DSLR Discussion	12	04-17-2012 02:18 PM
Colour Issues with *ist DL	Jekka_May	Pentax DSLR Discussion	3	08-19-2010 06:44 AM

09-12-2012, 01:05 PM	#2
pxpaulx Veteran Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Twin Cities, MN Posts: 2,867	Could be a heat related issue (was the camera in the bag in the car between friday and sunday, and was it very hot?), but also likely linked to age as well. Smarter minds will likely have a more clear answer and possibly a solution! Good luck!

09-12-2012, 01:07 PM	#3
wombat2go Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Michigan Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,207	It has lost green channel. Do you see same on rear lcd? If problem is at sensor level, probably not worth while to repair. I read that on these cameras, the mother board contains mappings for its particular sensor, so the sensor can't be changed without the factory software to re map.

09-12-2012, 04:56 PM	#4
ColdCougar New Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 11 Original Poster	pxPaulx -- No the camera was inside the house. I know y'all don't know me yet so .. I am a computer tech and know the effects of heat on electronics. Also I did some trouble shooting, I shot in 4 or 5 different modes used 2 different lenses and SD cards played with the settings in shutter and aperture priority. Wombat (thats funny I have a friend on another forum that has Wombat as his screen name) ... I was worried about that and half expecting to have to pick up another camera body. Thanks guys for your responses

09-12-2012, 05:05 PM	#6
ColdCougar New Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 11 Original Poster	OH and ... (because I can't edit yet ........ ) Wombat -- yes the pictures show up the same on the LCD

09-12-2012, 05:18 PM	#7
paulh Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: DFW Texas/Ventura County, CA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 33,306	Originally posted by ColdCougar OH and ... (because I can't edit yet ........ ) Wombat -- yes the pictures show up the same on the LCD That doesn't sound good - seems like there's been a number of threads lately from DL owners saying they're having problems. My istD is even older than your DL, but so far, so good (knock on wood). Unfortunately, these older models just aren't worth paying for repair. If you're strapped for cash, you can pick up a used istD_ or K100D for next to nothing these days, & keep your green-channel deprived DL for "special projects" Last edited by paulh; 09-12-2012 at 05:58 PM.

09-12-2012, 05:43 PM	#8
wombat2go Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Michigan Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,207	If you are tempted to tear it down: There is a - I think you would agree only small- chance that it it could be a cured by re-inserting the 2 sensor bus connectors I repaired a ist ds last weekend , it was 5 unpleasant hours but now I have another working body. 1. All the body screws are different lengths, I made a chart of the lengths a so you can put it back together along with the order of dis-assembly. I can post a link if you want. 2. The top cover has umpteen small soldered wires and I found it impossible not to have some break at the solder pads just by movement as you work on the back. (solder was lead free and I think brittle) . So you have to be able to solder them back on. If I ever do it again, I would make a jig to hold the top cover steady in a lifted position 3. The flash capacitor stays up forever, so it needs to be discharged with a resistor. 4. To unplug the main sensor flex bus you have to pull out the mother board which entails un- re- soldering about 14 wires. 5. You have to examine the main switch contacts with a loupe last thing before assembly to make sure they are all parallel otherwise the power switch can be intermittent. The power switch relies on the 2 battery chamber screws pulling the top cover down perfectly.

09-12-2012, 08:15 PM	#9
ColdCougar New Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 11 Original Poster	Originally posted by paulh That doesn't sound good - seems like there's been a number of threads lately from DL owners saying they're having problems. My istD is even older than your DL, but so far, so good (knock on wood). Unfortunately, these older models just aren't worth paying for repair. If you're strapped for cash, you can pick up a used istD_ or K100D for next to nothing these days, & keep your green-channel deprived DL for "special projects" Yep I am watching 2 right now ... and that sounds like an idea LOL Originally posted by wombat2go If you are tempted to tear it down: There is a - I think you would agree only small- chance that it it could be a cured by re-inserting the 2 sensor bus connectors I repaired a ist ds last weekend , it was 5 unpleasant hours but now I have another working body. 1. All the body screws are different lengths, I made a chart of the lengths a so you can put it back together along with the order of dis-assembly. I can post a link if you want. 2. The top cover has umpteen small soldered wires and I found it impossible not to have some break at the solder pads just by movement as you work on the back. (solder was lead free and I think brittle) . So you have to be able to solder them back on. If I ever do it again, I would make a jig to hold the top cover steady in a lifted position 3. The flash capacitor stays up forever, so it needs to be discharged with a resistor. 4. To unplug the main sensor flex bus you have to pull out the mother board which entails un- re- soldering about 14 wires. 5. You have to examine the main switch contacts with a loupe last thing before assembly to make sure they are all parallel otherwise the power switch can be intermittent. The power switch relies on the 2 battery chamber screws pulling the top cover down perfectly. hmmm ... doesnt sound like something I am comfortable with ... I can solder but not good enough for that small of a wire (I'm too messy) ... you want a body for parts (cheap-ish)?? LOL

09-19-2012, 07:28 PM	#10
ColdCougar New Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 11 Original Poster	OK ... FIRST: I would like to thank all who offered their expertise. SECOND: I resolved the situation ... .I ebayed (has that REALLY been made into a verb ...,., smh) a K100D ... I decided I wanted to upgrade and this camera was within my price range (which at this moment is, unfortunately, pretty low). I won the auction on Saturday and received it today. so far I REALLY like it (although I havent done much with it admittedly except play with the autofocus "points"). That being said ... do you think I should offer the DL up for "repair or parts"?? and how much should I REALISTICALLY expect to get out of it ... it does have a crack in the top next to the mode dial.

09-20-2012, 06:31 AM	#11
gp1806 Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago suburbs Photos: Albums Posts: 848	The crack near the mode dial will hurt the value. List it for 99 cents opening bid and let it go. Add a fair shipping charge that you will not lose money on. Don't expect much money, maybe $30. Or as Paul says 'keep it for special projects'.

09-20-2012, 08:25 AM	#12
tomwil Site Supporter Join Date: May 2009 Location: Maryland USA Posts: 778	Originally posted by wombat2go It has lost green channel. Is it really the green channel? I see green trees in the pic. Is it possibly the blue channel that is lost instead (although I do see blue in the pic also)? Interesting effect!