Originally posted by psychdoc Shooting film is not going to make things better simply because its film.
LIES! Shooting film ALWAYS makes it better.
What film camera and other gear are you using? More just curiosity than anything.
I assume you can read a light meter and are not asking how to get proper exposure (just center the damn needle), but rather how to get the shutter speed and depth of field you want in an image while still getting proper exposure.
Someone who spoke several languages once told me that the English language is difficult to really learn well, because where a normal language has many rules but few exceptions, English has few rules and MANY exceptions, you basically have to practice for years before you get a knack for the rules, or in reality the lack there of. This is also completely true for photography.
Lowell mentioned a few good "rules" especially the one about picking shutter speed with different focal lengths to avoid shaking the camera enough to blur your picture, that one is a bit foggy though because some of us are steadier than others. There are lots of guidelines like that, but like the pirates code its not set rules, its really more of a set of guidelines.
With my film camera the first thing I need to do before I go shooting is decide the ISO film I will use. Sometimes its decided for me by whats left of the roll in the camera which is why I only buy 24 exposure and not 36 when possible.
For normal quality film or digital you basically always want to use the lowest ISO possible that will still allow you to get the job done.
With high end film, just like how people claim that 40 is the new 30 for age, with newer high end film technology 400 is the new 200. High end 400 speed film has very fine grain and that is great because its much more versatile since if its too bright out and you want a wider aperture for narrow DOF you can just screw a ND filter on (lens sunglasses).
You might think that fast lenses would make up for lower ISO film, but you don't want to always be forced to shoot at wider apertures.
With digital you can set the ISO higher on the fly if you find its required to get the desired aperture and shutter speed combination, one of the few advantages that vile technology has.
Choosing aperture and shutter speed is more a juggling act, you figure out which is more important for what you want, and then adjust the other for proper exposure, or if both are important you have to find a way to compromise. Usually there are limits on shutter speed based on whats moving, the maximum shutter speed of the camera, and whether or not you are shooting from a solidly located tripod. With aperture the limits are caused by available light and how much or little you want in focus (DOF).
When you go to shoot a picture first you have to decide what you all want captured and whether or not there is enough movement where maintaining a minimum shutter speed is important.
If I were shooting a landscape the aperture would be more important so I would use a smaller aperture (higher number) to increase the DOF, and since the landscape hopefully isn't going anywhere I could use whatever slow shutter speed works to get proper exposure with that aperture even if a tripod was required.
If I were shooting a person or specific object, I would have to decide whether the background added to the composition or not. If it does than you want to use a smaller aperture to get it also in focus. But with many portraits the person is the key and it looks better if you isolate them from the background with focus so they stand out. That means choosing a wider aperture which would result in you just picking whatever shutter speed is correct for proper exposure. Frequently when getting narrow DOF pictures in bright daylight with an old film camera with faster speed films and a max shutter speed of 1000 you will need to use a ND filter to darken things enough that you don't overexpose the image. With digital cameras the shutter speed goes WAY higher so its not usually an issue (plus you can change your ISO).
Life becomes a pain in the ass when you have a moving object in low light because somethings got to give. Usually that something is ISO and you just switch to a higher ISO at the cost of some quality. I have huge troubles shooting trains in the late afternoon with the pile of cheap 200 ISO film I bought on clearance because with a train its so long it needs a larger DOF meaning you have to stop things down more and with slow film that means moving the shutter speed down to the point that the train blurs, which outside of an artistic shot of the bullet trains, tends to look like crap.
Since the focal length (20mm, 30mm ect.) effects the depth of field, lens choice can help you get some more wiggle room where depth of field is concerned. Sometimes its best to pick a different lens and move your feet to change the DOF when shutter speed issues make it impossible to open or close the aperture enough to get what you want in focus.
Something to remember is, it is extremely difficult to remember depth of field in your head, which is why older lenses had DOF scales on them and cameras came with a DOF preview lever (which works like crap btw). With experience with an individual lens you may get a pretty good idea of its DOF characteristics, but as soon as you change lenses to a different focal length (or adjust a zoom lens different) then its all different. So learning DOF at all the possible combinations of aperture isn't something you should make a real effort to do or worry about.
Learning what combinations of aperture and shutter in a given situation will do is more a matter of experience and practice than anything, there isn't a book that teaches it in a way that is easy to memorize. You may find a chart or page somewhere giving general suggestions for what is required to freeze certain types of action though.
Hmm that got rambly and I'm not sure it helped but maybe you can clarify if you have further questions.
EDIT: just a shopping note, if you do intend to go digital later you may want to get all A series lenses as they work just as well in either world, otherwise you will have to use stop down metering with your lenses when moved to a DSLR instead of just using the front and rear dials to change shutter and aperture. Oh, and the peep hole of a view finder for the the tiny sensor will piss you off.
Last edited by PPPPPP42; 09-16-2012 at 04:54 PM.