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09-28-2012, 02:55 PM   #31
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please help. i don't know waht to do... how come the pics look ok when the lens is in 3.5 mode on aperture ring and they come out black when the ring is on A? is there a full rest of the camera, apart from the one available under settings menu? does it have anything to do with software version? what else can I do?

09-28-2012, 05:03 PM   #32
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OK, let's back up a bit - not sure if we really got an answer to a previous suggestion.

In the menu - Custom Setting - item #30 - Preview Method - select choice #2 - Optical Prieview. Get out of the menu and back to "picture taking mode". Now, when you move the on/off switch to the round position you should hear the camera make some noise. With the lens removed, and the front of the camera facing you, make sure the lever inside the lens mount on the left side moves up and down when you move the on/off switch to the round position.

If the lever doesn't move, camera needs repair - if it does move here's the next step. Attach the lens, make sure the f-stop shows in the top LCD, select an f-stop around f13 to f22. Point the camera towards a light source - you should see it in the viewfinder - now turn and hold the on/off switch in the 'round' position - what you see in the viewfinder should now be much darker than when the switch is just in the on position. If that all works as it should then I'm outta silver bullets.
09-28-2012, 06:08 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by wave trust Quote
please help. i don't know waht to do... how come the pics look ok when the lens is in 3.5 mode on aperture ring and they come out black when the ring is on A? is there a full rest of the camera, apart from the one available under settings menu? does it have anything to do with software version? what else can I do?
The way the camera works, or is supposed to, is when in Av mode, and a lens is in manual aperture it is to meter and shoot wide open, that is why F3.5 works. But you say the picture gets progressively darker as you stop down, but not the viewfinder. That means that the aperture activation lever, which holds the aperture open to focus, is moving to the fully stopped down position on every exposure, the only thing limiting the lens is its own aperture setting. In A mode, because this is F32 on the lens the exposure is very dark. It is the camera that needs to be serviced it has a mechanical fault it is not software. There is no likely reset for this. It needs service. Sorry
09-29-2012, 03:08 AM   #34
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chip b, the camera does everything you say: noise, viewfinder darkens, the lever inside moves. still, on A on lens ring I get only dark pics.

09-29-2012, 03:15 AM   #35
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it's like the camera can't control the lens aperture in AV or green mode. In av mode, even if i use the wheel on the body, and the lcd shows a small f (3.5, 5,6), the pics come out dark. Lowell, do you think that indeed the body needs fixing? if so, what should i say to the service guy? is it an expensive/tough job? and is the camera broken for good? And if it's the stop down lever the body not working correctly like L33tGreg suggested, can it be fixed?
any suggestion is appreciated and thanks a lot guys, you are real pals.
09-29-2012, 03:50 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by wave trust Quote
it's like the camera can't control the lens aperture in AV or green mode. In av mode, even if i use the wheel on the body, and the lcd shows a small f (3.5, 5,6), the pics come out dark. Lowell, do you think that indeed the body needs fixing? if so, what should i say to the service guy? is it an expensive/tough job? and is the camera broken for good? And if it's the stop down lever the body not working correctly like L33tGreg suggested, can it be fixed?
any suggestion is appreciated and thanks a lot guys, you are real pals.
From all I read here in the thread, yes the camera needs service. Repair is possible, cost is difficult to estimate. 3 years ago the shutter failed on my K10D. The cost to repair, included complete new shutter, mirror assembly, and lens mount. It also included complete cleaning. Tat was $325cdn by Pentax Canada

Out of that cost over $200 was labor. But considering the cost of a skilled service man, and facilities, that could be as little as 2-3 hours.
09-29-2012, 04:23 AM   #37
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thanx Lowell.
I hope that it will cost me less and i don't need expensive parts. the shutter has only 14k actuations... here's a pic with the mount on the body, with the stop lever area. if you zoom in, can you tell me if you see anything wrong? DSCF4084 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
I see a little piece of curved metal band which is not fully attached to the mount on one side. There are two more pieces like that and they are all attached to the mount on both sides. the piece looks like an upside down Ω. could this be it?
thanks!
09-29-2012, 04:53 AM   #38
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parts are not expensive, its the labor. even if it only needs $40 in parts, you would still be looking at about $250 total bill

09-29-2012, 05:22 AM   #39
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there's also a piece of metal that looks to be bent, near the red point.... could any of you guys post a similar photo with a similar mount to that of k20d to check it out?
thanks very much!
09-29-2012, 05:47 AM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by wave trust Quote
there's also a piece of metal that looks to be bent, near the red point.... could any of you guys post a similar photo with a similar mount to that of k20d to check it out?
thanks very much!
Its supose to be there, its the stop for the lens when mounting, so you don't go past the locking pin location.
looking at the image of you camera, those screws look a little damaged. In other words, I'm thinking it has been tampered with.

The other question I have, do you put the lens in to A position before mounting?

With the lens in the A position and the lens not mounted the Aperture should be at its smallest (little hole). When you mount it the aperture should open to the maximium (big hole). And if you turn the Aperture ring while mounted there should be no movement in the blades, until you take a photo.

what do you see?
09-29-2012, 07:24 AM   #41
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bdparker, the lens behave exactly as you say, quote: "With the lens in the A position and the lens not mounted the Aperture should be at its smallest (little hole). When you mount it the aperture should open to the maximium (big hole). And if you turn the Aperture ring while mounted there should be no movement in the blades, until you take a photo." what issue could that be?
09-29-2012, 07:55 AM   #42
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another thing. with the lens off, and camera set to M, the aperture lever does not move when i push the green button near the dial. it only moves after i activate dof preview. when the lens is mounted, and i push the green button in M, nothing seems to happen, even after activating dof preview. is this a strange thing?
09-29-2012, 08:04 AM   #43
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On you settings screen when you manually select a Aperture on the lens, the Aperture should read F--- (or so it does on my K7). When in A position the screen should show the current Aperture selected by the camera (within the limits of the lens).

So if you set the camera to the maximum Aperture in A position (I believe its 3.5) and set the focus to manual (this way the camera will still fire if out of focus) turn the camera around a look down the lens, while watching the blades take a photo.... the should be no movement in the Aperture.
The set the aperture on the camera to say f22 and do the same thing. The Aperture should close and open as it should.

All this might sound ridiculous, but without us physically working with your camera, we can only compare what work in the similar situation for us.
09-29-2012, 08:34 AM   #44
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bdparker, On you settings screen when you manually select a Aperture on the lens, the Aperture should read F--- (or so it does on my K7). When in A position the screen should show the current Aperture selected by the camera (within the limits of the lens) ----- it does that

So if you set the camera to the maximum Aperture in A position (I believe its 3.5) and set the focus to manual (this way the camera will still fire if out of focus) turn the camera around a look down the lens, while watching the blades take a photo.... the should be no movement in the Aperture.
The set the aperture on the camera to say f22 and do the same thing. The Aperture should close and open as it should. ----- the aperture looks the same both for 3.5 and 22 when the ring on the lens is on A. scrolling the aperture dial on the body seems to do nothing in the lens. on the top screen i get the correct F number. I've done it as you say, in manual focus. The aperture still looks like about 1mm wide (or less).
09-29-2012, 08:34 AM   #45
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any help is kindly appreciated...
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