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10-21-2012, 08:06 AM - 1 Like   #16
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Morning,

I do landscapes and cityscapes, nearly always in ambient low light conditions (late afternoon, evening, night, etc.). I do several things. I look up the lens, and yours is here...Second page a bit more than half way down, you will run into some histograms (bar charts). You want to make a subjective selection on the set of highest bars for your focal length. Bars represent the center, edge and corners. Guessing at f8 is just fine.

There is a DoF (Depth of Field) Calculator that is good, here...Dial in the camera, focal range, and f stop aperture. So for a K5 @ 17mm with f8, at 10 feet - you get everything from 3.73 feet to infinity essentially in focus. For your image, I would just go to infinity for focusing. And that is a good rule of thumb.

I also use a tripod, and the lowest ISO I can get for maximum dynamic range.

I have also (since I did not have my tripod with me) shot a image handheld that I printed at A1 with an absolute amazing amount of detail. I actually think that I might easily go larger, but maybe not up to A0 - somewhere in between.

... and as others have said, a Rocket Blower is your friend.

hope that helps....



10-21-2012, 08:45 AM - 1 Like   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by joshfishkins Quote
I have a KX. It does 'dust removal' every time I switch it on. I've now tried a couple of shots with different lenses, and the dust spots are there which confirms they are on the sensor, not the lens. I've looked on Amazon and found this:

Digital SLR Camera Sensor Cleaning Pads with Fluid: Amazon.co.uk: Camera & Photo

Anyone used it? Any idea how much it would cost me to get it professionally done? I live in the sticks in Devon, so popping to my local store involves nearly a two hour trip...!
Please read the Kx manual on sensor cleaning it is different from the shake on start up. read that and follow the on screen instructions first before you waste any ús on cleaning kit.

if that does not work then PM me I am in bristol also about 2 hours away from you and we have pros here two i can think of who will clean for you if necessary or we can try my arctic butterfly if you want first.
10-21-2012, 09:11 AM   #18
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We use a similar product all the time. Although now that we have 3 camera bodies we are making a concerted effort to not change lenses so much. I like to put my DA* 60-250 on the K-x, my 18-135 on the K20D, and shoot anything with a prime on the K-5, so we only have to clean the one sensor. By the way, I suspect that shot would look great on canvas...although I recommend some PP work on it first and not just the dust. Don't worry about the lack of sharpness. People don't really expect sharpness on works done on canvas. But right now your image, in terms of contrast, saturation and definition looks flat, and all those things will look even flatter printed on canvas. Garrish on your computer screen equals really good on canvas. Well maybe not that extreme but, hopefully you get the idea. Oh ya, and printing on canvas, the image has to be brighter, I usually bump the brightness 10-15 % being careful not to lose any detail, compared to how I'd like to view it on my computer.
10-25-2012, 10:46 AM   #19
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Sensor now cleaned using the sensor pack and eclipse thing from Amazon. Excellent and really easy to use. Thanks all.

11-01-2012, 05:57 AM   #20
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Picture cleaned up

So I've cleaned up the shot in PS and sharpened it, etc, so now it looks like the attached. I'd appreciate any thoughts or suggestions on how to improve this sort of shot (for the record I'm pretty happy with it, but always keen to know more!).

Thanks all.
Attached Images
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PENTAX K-x  Photo 
11-01-2012, 07:49 AM - 1 Like   #21
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It doesn't look bad at all. I might experiment with some vibrance, maybe a tad more saturation and a little more contrast but that is just me.
11-01-2012, 08:17 AM   #22
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Josh I assume the above is a jpeg since it on the site. if you use photoshop of any version open the image using open as [rather than open] and set the file type to camera raw, this will allow you to open the jpeg as if it is a raw image in ACR .
once it has opened go to the bottom of the sliders and look for clarity slider and shove it all the way to the right and then back to the centre. note the change to the histogram, you boost the mid tones and almost add a texture to the detail.
works well for detailed landscapes like yours
just my pennies worth for you.
11-02-2012, 02:43 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by adwb Quote
Josh I assume the above is a jpeg since it on the site. if you use photoshop of any version open the image using open as [rather than open] and set the file type to camera raw, this will allow you to open the jpeg as if it is a raw image in ACR .
once it has opened go to the bottom of the sliders and look for clarity slider and shove it all the way to the right and then back to the centre. note the change to the histogram, you boost the mid tones and almost add a texture to the detail.
works well for detailed landscapes like yours
just my pennies worth for you.
Yep it's a jpeg, but I have also kept the psd file so I could go back to it following any suggestions on here! Thanks, will try the clarity slider later today.

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