Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
10-24-2012, 10:41 PM   #1
Senior Member
ajaya's Avatar

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bangalore
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 141
help reqd for Low light Party photography!

Hello all

yesterday i took some picture of a Indoor party i have used K-R + Tamron 28-70mm AF 2.8 lens but still not able to get good results with f4 and above without flash. any suggestion which is the better Settings to use for lowlight moving subjects ? . i am able to shoot good images on 2.8 but if i want f5 or above then which is the recommended settings ?

Please help me.


Regards,
Aj

10-24-2012, 11:12 PM   #2
Inactive Account




Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: North Carolina
Photos: Albums
Posts: 1,720
What was your ISO?
10-24-2012, 11:22 PM   #3
Senior Member
ajaya's Avatar

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bangalore
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 141
Original Poster
Iso 1600
10-24-2012, 11:33 PM   #4
Veteran Member




Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 818
Hmm....

From what i can imagine, the only way is to use a much higher ISO.. Maybe ISO3200 to compensate for the decreased aperture value..

The basic exposure triangle must be properly understood here..

So, for e.g:

You know that you get good exposure with:
f/2.8
ISO 1600
1/30 *for example*

To get the same exposure again with f/4:
f/4
ISO 3200
1/30

Or you can change around with other value.
f/4
ISO 1600
1/15

Know what i mean?


Last edited by SyncGuy; 10-25-2012 at 02:07 AM.
10-25-2012, 12:14 AM - 1 Like   #5
Veteran Member
kaiserz's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NoVa The "burg"
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 899
What do you mean by good results? any sample pictures?

There's only so much you can do to manipulate the Exposure Triangle. And I have to tell you shooting low light + moving subject is going to be really hard, you at least would want to use a decent shutter speed to freeze action, but w/o decent light that's going to be really hard. (I don't even try to shoot moving targets at low light unless I'm going to be panning.) The goal is to get a decent shutter speed to eliminate blurry images.

Here are some tips the might be able to help.
#1 Use a wide focal length. The wider the focal length the less blur you'll get from hand holding your camera. The wider the easier to stabilize.
#2 Use a wide focal length. The wider the FL the less DOF you have to deal with, meaning at 15mm f4 you can have more stuff in focus vs 75mm at f4 (This can be to you advantage or disadvantage)
#3 Use High ISO. you can squeeze a faster shutter speed and thus a bigger chance of eliminating motion blur.
#4 Use wide aperture, the wider the aperture the more light you can get. the more light = more shutter speed. But I'm pretty sure you know that the wider your aperture, the more DOF comes in to play.
#5 Exposure compensation at -1 stop. shoot raw and then recover the image to its proper exposure. the goal here once again is to squeeze more shutter speed out of the available light.

I do believe you can push the K-r's ISO setting to 6400 and get okay quality images.
And if you incorporate the settings discussed here https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/106600-k-7-high-iso-success-4.html I'm pretty sure you can get decent results from the Kr's high ISO capabilities.

Good luck
10-25-2012, 01:10 AM   #6
Veteran Member




Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Wellington
Posts: 969
Great tips here- wide shots are your friends, also make the most use of ANY light- I have a Kx so not quite the luxury of high ISO just got a big flash instead, just heaps more consistant results although a bigger setup-I like it more actually I get more people wanting to pose for shots as I look more 'pro' lol
10-25-2012, 02:01 AM   #7
Senior Member
ajaya's Avatar

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bangalore
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 141
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by kaiserz Quote
What do you mean by good results? any sample pictures?

There's only so much you can do to manipulate the Exposure Triangle. And I have to tell you shooting low light + moving subject is going to be really hard, you at least would want to use a decent shutter speed to freeze action, but w/o decent light that's going to be really hard. (I don't even try to shoot moving targets at low light unless I'm going to be panning.) The goal is to get a decent shutter speed to eliminate blurry images.

Here are some tips the might be able to help.
#1 Use a wide focal length. The wider the focal length the less blur you'll get from hand holding your camera. The wider the easier to stabilize.
#2 Use a wide focal length. The wider the FL the less DOF you have to deal with, meaning at 15mm f4 you can have more stuff in focus vs 75mm at f4 (This can be to you advantage or disadvantage)
#3 Use High ISO. you can squeeze a faster shutter speed and thus a bigger chance of eliminating motion blur.
#4 Use wide aperture, the wider the aperture the more light you can get. the more light = more shutter speed. But I'm pretty sure you know that the wider your aperture, the more DOF comes in to play.
#5 Exposure compensation at -1 stop. shoot raw and then recover the image to its proper exposure. the goal here once again is to squeeze more shutter speed out of the available light.

I do believe you can push the K-r's ISO setting to 6400 and get okay quality images.
And if you incorporate the settings discussed here https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/106600-k-7-high-iso-success-4.html I'm pretty sure you can get decent results from the Kr's high ISO capabilities.

Good luck
i tried with SCN MODE Where the camera will set ISO to 6400 but i was worried i will loose the clarity. i will try this setting this sunday and let you know the results. thanks
10-25-2012, 02:08 AM   #8
Senior Member
ajaya's Avatar

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bangalore
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 141
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by Tonto Quote
Great tips here- wide shots are your friends, also make the most use of ANY light- I have a Kx so not quite the luxury of high ISO just got a big flash instead, just heaps more consistant results although a bigger setup-I like it more actually I get more people wanting to pose for shots as I look more 'pro' lol
i dont have an external flash i tried most of the shots with flash but the results are not so pleasing for me.

10-25-2012, 02:10 AM   #9
Veteran Member




Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 818
QuoteOriginally posted by ajaya Quote
i dont have an external flash i tried most of the shots with flash but the results are not so pleasing for me.
Are you using on-board flash?

If you are, then kindly switch over to manual/M mode...

Adjust exposure to get -2 or -1 on the camera, then shoot....

If subject is too bright, use the flash EV compensation and change it's compensation value accordingly..

Basically, expose for the image/ambient, then use flash to expose for the subject...
10-25-2012, 02:30 AM   #10
Veteran Member




Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Wellington
Posts: 969
I bounce the flash or use a small softbox (external flash obviously) - the onboard flash 'can' be used with the advice from SyncGuy- I found a well exposed flash shot will beat a flat ISO shot everytime as it emphasizes the subjects- rear curtain sync makes for some cool shots too.
10-25-2012, 02:50 AM   #11
Senior Member
ajaya's Avatar

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bangalore
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 141
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by SyncGuy Quote
Are you using on-board flash?

If you are, then kindly switch over to manual/M mode...

Adjust exposure to get -2 or -1 on the camera, then shoot....

If subject is too bright, use the flash EV compensation and change it's compensation value accordingly..

Basically, expose for the image/ambient, then use flash to expose for the subject...
yes i was using built in flash with exposure +1 on AV mode ok i will try to reduce and see how it will change the Image !
Thanks for the tip.
10-25-2012, 02:55 AM   #12
Site Supporter
Sandy Hancock's Avatar

Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 5,718
If light is low, compromises need to made somewhere. If you're shooting moving subjects you need either wide open aperture or high ISO. If your current combination isn't cutting it you need a more capable sensor (K-5, K-30, K-01) or faster lenses (FA50/1.4 is one of the cheaper options). Or both.

The other option is to invest in a decent swivel/bounce flash and learn how to get the best out of it.
10-25-2012, 03:08 AM - 1 Like   #13
Veteran Member




Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 818
QuoteOriginally posted by ajaya Quote
yes i was using built in flash with exposure +1 on AV mode ok i will try to reduce and see how it will change the Image !
Thanks for the tip.
Hmm.... I'm thinking that you're getting confused on the +1 EV compensation and AV mode.

On AV mode, when you dial in +1 EV compensation, it means you are requesting for +1 stop of ambient exposure.

What i mean for the EV compensation is for flash. Look at your Kr and its 4-way button. The bottom one is for flash.
Select that and use the dial to see that the flash EV compensation will be changed within the range of -2 to +1.

That's why i advised you to shoot in manual.
When using flash, you are basically required to expose for TWO separate things.

1)Ambient: General exposure of the picture
2)Subject: Exposure of the subject with flash here

Therefore, have a practice now.

1) Switch to M mode and meter for a scene, including subject smack in the center. (make sure it meters 0.0)
2) Use flash and set the flash EV compensation to 0.0
3) take a picture

Then now,
1a) adjust in step 1 and expose the same scene with the EV metering showing -1.0
2a) dial in FLASH EV compensation to +1.0
3a) take a picture

You will notice now that the subject will be brighter than the background. You can practice outside and play around with the two DIFFERENT EV compensation; flash EV compensation for subject, and general EV compensation for ambient.
Adjust to suit to taste.
Get what i mean?
10-25-2012, 03:12 AM   #14
Senior Member
ajaya's Avatar

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bangalore
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 141
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by SyncGuy Quote
Hmm.... I'm thinking that you're getting confused on the +1 EV compensation and AV mode.

On AV mode, when you dial in +1 EV compensation, it means you are requesting for +1 stop of ambient exposure.

What i mean for the EV compensation is for flash. Look at your Kr and its 4-way button. The bottom one is for flash.
Select that and use the dial to see that the flash EV compensation will be changed within the range of -2 to +1.

That's why i advised you to shoot in manual.
When using flash, you are basically required to expose for TWO separate things.

1)Ambient: General exposure of the picture
2)Subject: Exposure of the subject with flash here

Therefore, have a practice now.

1) Switch to M mode and meter for a scene, including subject smack in the center. (make sure it meters 0.0)
2) Use flash and set the flash EV compensation to 0.0
3) take a picture

Then now,
1a) adjust in step 1 and expose the same scene with the EV metering showing -1.0
2a) dial in FLASH EV compensation to +1.0
3a) take a picture

You will notice now that the subject will be brighter than the background. You can practice outside and play around with the two DIFFERENT EV compensation; flash EV compensation for subject, and general EV compensation for ambient.
Adjust to suit to taste.
Get what i mean?
yep i got it.i haven't changed the FLASH EV compensation. Now i am clear what to do. thanks for the details SyncGuy
10-25-2012, 03:18 AM   #15
Veteran Member




Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 818
QuoteOriginally posted by ajaya Quote
yep i got it.i haven't changed the FLASH EV compensation. Now i am clear what to do. thanks for the details SyncGuy
No problem... I, myself, had a headache from learning it initially... LoL!
Do remember though that the onboard flash has it's limitation, like if the ambient is too bright, or if the subject is too near..
Don't go smashing your camera onto the floor in frustration.. LOL!

A *general* guideline:
Start off with underexposing the ambient exposure by -1.0 and use the flash with it's EV compensation to make up for the subject's exposure.

Do try to recognize and understand each equipment's limitations.
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
camera, party, pentax help, photography, settings
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Any <$200 AF lenses for low-light photography (Primes? Zooms?) ? photoleet Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 87 08-01-2011 09:21 AM
low light photography r00t_b33r Photographic Technique 9 12-11-2010 09:34 PM
Low Light Photography Iann Cannon Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 37 10-22-2009 11:51 AM
Low light photography with a spotmatic? miniheli Pentax Film SLR Discussion 29 10-03-2008 07:14 PM
Low Light photography kshapero Pentax DSLR Discussion 8 06-27-2008 11:03 AM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:49 PM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top