I did it (400mmf/2.8GimbalHead)

**pntxjack** · 11-29-2012, 05:30 PM

After much thought about all of the suggestions, and after much thought about my initial stupidity, and after many nightmares about turning my lens into "parts" if anything went wrong, I decided to "fix" the lens.
The first photo shows the bottom of the built-in tripod mount. The small holes to the left and right ot the mounting hole are original. They are shallow and were unthreaded.
Tp drill and tap the hole on the left had too much potential for turning the lens into "parts", so I left it alone.
The hole on the right was in the "overhang" (see the second photo), and the careful drilling of a pilot hole, then tapping had potential, and with a great deal of caution, I could drill all the way through. I did. Finding a proper length 10-32 screw wa no problem because I NEVER throw anything away in my shop. The #21 drill bit, not so easy, but a 5/32" bit worked. After drilling all the way through the "overhang" on the mount, I tapped it and the mounted the gimbal plate. (See the thirf photo.)
Problem solved?
In so far as mounting the plate to the lens and eliminating the "spinning" the lens wants to do when mounted at one point only, YES!!!
Top heavy still, even with the body attached, and the plate mounted as far back as possible. I will look for a longer plate.
Now all I have to do is find a very strong young person who wants to hike to where the birds are lugging this 13+ pound monster for me.

Attached Images

**interested_observer** · 11-29-2012, 07:41 PM

You need a Rockey Mountain Canary - aka a Burro.....

cmohr · 11-30-2012, 03:17 AM

Good job, you will probably need a 4in plate or so, to get it back far enough to have balance. Pop a shot up of the whole thing mounted on the gimbal if you can..

**pntxjack** · 11-30-2012, 08:51 AM

IO--
Where can I get one?
cmohr--
My existing plate is about 3.25". B&H advertises a "long" plate, but give no dimensions. The photo of it looks like mine. I am awaiting an email from B&H.
The description says made to fit "arca-swiss", etc.
Question: Is "arca-swiss" such a standard that I can use a longer plate made by any manufacturer on my Induro?
I will post a photo of the setup later today.
Thanks for the help.
Jack

snostorm · 11-30-2012, 09:29 AM

Originally posted by pntxjack

IO--
Where can I get one?
cmohr--
My existing plate is about 3.25". B&H advertises a "long" plate, but give no dimensions. The photo of it looks like mine. I am awaiting an email from B&H.
The description says made to fit "arca-swiss", etc.
Question: Is "arca-swiss" such a standard that I can use a longer plate made by any manufacturer on my Induro?
I will post a photo of the setup later today.

Hi Jack,

Arca Swiss is a rough standard, and any plate that is advertised as Arca compatible will work with any screw type clamp in the "family". The area where the "standard" does not necessarily apply is for the "lever" clamps, because these might be fussy for exact dimensions. For your application, consider it a standard unless you change the clamp to a lever style (which wouldn't be a good idea IMO). The only clamp change that might be recommended would be to go with a longer clamp for some added support and security.

For longer plates, I'd look at Hejnar Photo and OEC Camera

Hejnar Photo Store, Serving Your Professional Photography Needs

OEC Camera Accessories @ Amazon.com: sunwayfoto

Hejnar is probably your best bet. He makes heavier duty plates, and can make a custom plate to your specs if you feel you need it. -- and his prices are excellent.

Scott

BTW, I find your choice of 10-36 thread for the other hole a bit curious. 10-24 is the industry standard for tripod mount screws -- no problem really, though. If you want to change it, you can redrill and use a Keensert.

**pntxjack** · 11-30-2012, 06:03 PM

HI Scott--
I think the standard is 1/4x20. But, anyway, I had to use a smaller diameter screw to fit in the plate slot without modifying the plate. I also had to choose a size for a screw I already had, that I already had a tap for, and that I already had a correct or nearly so drill bit for. Also, the area where I could relatively safely drill was so small that my heart would not have withstood the stress of drilling a pilot for 1/4x20.
Thanks for the leads on the compnaies that might make something for me.
Jack

snostorm · 11-30-2012, 07:23 PM

Originally posted by pntxjack

HI Scott--
I think the standard is 1/4x20. But, anyway, I had to use a smaller diameter screw to fit in the plate slot without modifying the plate. I also had to choose a size for a screw I already had, that I already had a tap for, and that I already had a correct or nearly so drill bit for. Also, the area where I could relatively safely drill was so small that my heart would not have withstood the stress of drilling a pilot for 1/4x20.
Thanks for the leads on the compnaies that might make something for me.
Jack

Hi Jack,

I really have no idea why I typed the screw sizes as i did

. brainfreeze I'm guessing. . . You are correct, 1/4-20. . .

I doubt that they will have to make anything special -- Hejnar stocks four different thicknesses and numerous lengths of Arca type lens plates. He can, however make just about anything that you might desire -- easily the best Arca compatible source I know of.

Scott

**Ex Finn.** · 12-01-2012, 07:02 AM

Originally posted by pntxjack

My existing plate is about 3.25". B&H advertises a "long" plate, but give no dimensions.

The Jobu design NX3 is 5.5'' and the NX4 is 7" long.
Jobu Design NX4 Surefoot Lensplate (7") SF-NX4 B&H Photo

**pntxjack** · 12-01-2012, 08:59 AM

Scott--
Trust me, that condition is not going to get any better.

Finn--
Thanks-that looks like just what I need.
Jack

**Lowell Goudge** · 12-02-2012, 05:22 AM

I'm confused here. Why go to the risk(possibly only perceived but...) of drilling the lens foot, when a simple solution would have been to drill a small set screw hole on each side of the plate. To block the lens foot from rotating.

Seems to me that the plate is much easier to fix if/ replace if this gets messed up

Consider using two small screws just like the one that limits the slide travel of the plate on the mount,

**pntxjack** · 12-02-2012, 08:57 AM

Thanks Lowell--
My lens foot is at least 1/2" wider than my plate (see third photo). I'd really have loved to be able to do it your way. If I understand your suggestion, I can't, right?
Jack

**Lowell Goudge** · 12-02-2012, 12:25 PM

No you still can. You drill at the end of the plate, on both sides. This blocks rotation because the rotation is around the main screw, and when you block the end of the foot on both sides it also stops rotation.

**pntxjack** · 12-02-2012, 01:30 PM

Thanks Lowell--
I think I see what you mean. Using the oval cutout in the plate as a reference (third photo), are you saying drill and tap the plate at the right end at about 1:00 and 5:00 o'clock?
I have ordered the 7" plate that Finn has suggested because even securely attached to the plate, I still have a "balance" problem. When the new plate arrives, I will use your technique on it as added security.
Jack

11-29-2012, 05:30 PM	#1
pntxjack Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: placerville, ca Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 171	I did it (400mmf/2.8GimbalHead) After much thought about all of the suggestions, and after much thought about my initial stupidity, and after many nightmares about turning my lens into "parts" if anything went wrong, I decided to "fix" the lens. The first photo shows the bottom of the built-in tripod mount. The small holes to the left and right ot the mounting hole are original. They are shallow and were unthreaded. Tp drill and tap the hole on the left had too much potential for turning the lens into "parts", so I left it alone. The hole on the right was in the "overhang" (see the second photo), and the careful drilling of a pilot hole, then tapping had potential, and with a great deal of caution, I could drill all the way through. I did. Finding a proper length 10-32 screw wa no problem because I NEVER throw anything away in my shop. The #21 drill bit, not so easy, but a 5/32" bit worked. After drilling all the way through the "overhang" on the mount, I tapped it and the mounted the gimbal plate. (See the thirf photo.) Problem solved? In so far as mounting the plate to the lens and eliminating the "spinning" the lens wants to do when mounted at one point only, YES!!! Top heavy still, even with the body attached, and the plate mounted as far back as possible. I will look for a longer plate. Now all I have to do is find a very strong young person who wants to hike to where the birds are lugging this 13+ pound monster for me. Attached Images

11-30-2012, 09:29 AM	#5
snostorm Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Chicago suburb, IL, USA Posts: 1,535	Originally posted by pntxjack IO-- Where can I get one? cmohr-- My existing plate is about 3.25". B&H advertises a "long" plate, but give no dimensions. The photo of it looks like mine. I am awaiting an email from B&H. The description says made to fit "arca-swiss", etc. Question: Is "arca-swiss" such a standard that I can use a longer plate made by any manufacturer on my Induro? I will post a photo of the setup later today. Hi Jack, Arca Swiss is a rough standard, and any plate that is advertised as Arca compatible will work with any screw type clamp in the "family". The area where the "standard" does not necessarily apply is for the "lever" clamps, because these might be fussy for exact dimensions. For your application, consider it a standard unless you change the clamp to a lever style (which wouldn't be a good idea IMO). The only clamp change that might be recommended would be to go with a longer clamp for some added support and security. For longer plates, I'd look at Hejnar Photo and OEC Camera Hejnar Photo Store, Serving Your Professional Photography Needs OEC Camera Accessories @ Amazon.com: sunwayfoto Hejnar is probably your best bet. He makes heavier duty plates, and can make a custom plate to your specs if you feel you need it. -- and his prices are excellent. Scott BTW, I find your choice of 10-36 thread for the other hole a bit curious. 10-24 is the industry standard for tripod mount screws -- no problem really, though. If you want to change it, you can redrill and use a Keensert. Last edited by snostorm; 11-30-2012 at 09:41 AM.

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11-29-2012, 07:41 PM	#2
interested_observer Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Tumbleweed, Arizona Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,707	You need a Rockey Mountain Canary - aka a Burro.....

11-30-2012, 03:17 AM	#3
cmohr Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Brisbane. Australia Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,824	Good job, you will probably need a 4in plate or so, to get it back far enough to have balance. Pop a shot up of the whole thing mounted on the gimbal if you can..

11-30-2012, 08:51 AM	#4
pntxjack Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: placerville, ca Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 171 Original Poster	IO-- Where can I get one? cmohr-- My existing plate is about 3.25". B&H advertises a "long" plate, but give no dimensions. The photo of it looks like mine. I am awaiting an email from B&H. The description says made to fit "arca-swiss", etc. Question: Is "arca-swiss" such a standard that I can use a longer plate made by any manufacturer on my Induro? I will post a photo of the setup later today. Thanks for the help. Jack

11-30-2012, 06:03 PM	#6
pntxjack Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: placerville, ca Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 171 Original Poster	HI Scott-- I think the standard is 1/4x20. But, anyway, I had to use a smaller diameter screw to fit in the plate slot without modifying the plate. I also had to choose a size for a screw I already had, that I already had a tap for, and that I already had a correct or nearly so drill bit for. Also, the area where I could relatively safely drill was so small that my heart would not have withstood the stress of drilling a pilot for 1/4x20. Thanks for the leads on the compnaies that might make something for me. Jack

11-30-2012, 07:23 PM	#7
snostorm Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Chicago suburb, IL, USA Posts: 1,535	Originally posted by pntxjack HI Scott-- I think the standard is 1/4x20. But, anyway, I had to use a smaller diameter screw to fit in the plate slot without modifying the plate. I also had to choose a size for a screw I already had, that I already had a tap for, and that I already had a correct or nearly so drill bit for. Also, the area where I could relatively safely drill was so small that my heart would not have withstood the stress of drilling a pilot for 1/4x20. Thanks for the leads on the compnaies that might make something for me. Jack Hi Jack, I really have no idea why I typed the screw sizes as i did . brainfreeze I'm guessing. . . You are correct, 1/4-20. . . I doubt that they will have to make anything special -- Hejnar stocks four different thicknesses and numerous lengths of Arca type lens plates. He can, however make just about anything that you might desire -- easily the best Arca compatible source I know of. Scott

12-01-2012, 07:02 AM	#8
Ex Finn. Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Southern Maryland. Espoo. Kouvola. Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 7,975	Originally posted by pntxjack My existing plate is about 3.25". B&H advertises a "long" plate, but give no dimensions. The Jobu design NX3 is 5.5'' and the NX4 is 7" long. Jobu Design NX4 Surefoot Lensplate (7") SF-NX4 B&H Photo

12-01-2012, 08:59 AM	#9
pntxjack Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: placerville, ca Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 171 Original Poster	Scott-- Trust me, that condition is not going to get any better. Finn-- Thanks-that looks like just what I need. Jack

12-02-2012, 05:22 AM	#10
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,888	I'm confused here. Why go to the risk(possibly only perceived but...) of drilling the lens foot, when a simple solution would have been to drill a small set screw hole on each side of the plate. To block the lens foot from rotating. Seems to me that the plate is much easier to fix if/ replace if this gets messed up Consider using two small screws just like the one that limits the slide travel of the plate on the mount,

12-02-2012, 08:57 AM	#11
pntxjack Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: placerville, ca Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 171 Original Poster	Thanks Lowell-- My lens foot is at least 1/2" wider than my plate (see third photo). I'd really have loved to be able to do it your way. If I understand your suggestion, I can't, right? Jack

12-02-2012, 12:25 PM	#12
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,888	No you still can. You drill at the end of the plate, on both sides. This blocks rotation because the rotation is around the main screw, and when you block the end of the foot on both sides it also stops rotation.

12-02-2012, 01:30 PM	#13
pntxjack Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: placerville, ca Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 171 Original Poster	Thanks Lowell-- I think I see what you mean. Using the oval cutout in the plate as a reference (third photo), are you saying drill and tap the plate at the right end at about 1:00 and 5:00 o'clock? I have ordered the 7" plate that Finn has suggested because even securely attached to the plate, I still have a "balance" problem. When the new plate arrives, I will use your technique on it as added security. Jack