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12-29-2012, 03:23 AM   #1
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interpreting blinkies

I am posting this in the beginners forum as I think the answer might be of interest to new owners as well as old hands like me.

I once read a post about the over/under exposure blinkies shown in the camera display which discussed the fact that the display is a converted from raw to jpeg image.

This meant that if you had either blinkies showing the over/under warning was not so serious due to the extra dynamic latitude in a raw.

So far so good, that is understood and, makes sense and indeed you can easily prove this for you self with a simple test shot or two.

What I am sure was mentioned was some method of understanding how the camera blinkies would indicate when they would appear on a raw conversion engine like adobe raw, or, perhaps to word it better, how to judge from the intensity of the camera ones when they would just show and possibly be recoverable in ACR.

This subject was covered by a thread as I say once several years ago but I can't find it. If memory serves me right it was when the k10 was still available and the k20 had just appeared.

12-29-2012, 04:14 AM   #2
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I think you just have to look at the histogram and think about the photo as a whole. If only a small portion of the photo is overexposed, and areas surrounding it are ok, then it'll probably be recoverable. If the overexposure is greater than just a stop or two, though, I'd be concerned and try bracketing to make sure the final product will be good.

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12-29-2012, 05:41 AM   #3
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About a stop and a half is recoverable, but invariably I've noted permanently lost details at even less than a stop of overexposure, especially at high ISO.

Last edited by Ash; 12-29-2012 at 06:03 AM.
12-31-2012, 03:42 PM   #4
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I try to expose so that just a few very small 'blinkies' are showing. A couple of small dots in a white cloud will not impact the image and it shows me I have exposed as much as I possibly can. LR 4.x seems to do a excellent job of recovering one stop and even two is possible sometimes, depending on the surrounding area.

I just read a post on another forum where someone was trying to blow out the background of a model shoot. The background was lit separately with two stops more light but LR was recovering enough of the background to cause problems. The screen on the camera was showing the entire background as 'blinkies'. I think he was using Canon. His point was similar to yours in that even though it looked like he had it right on the camera screen when he opened them in LR it was not what he wanted. Suggestions were to go to 3 stops on the background or to adjust the whites in LR.


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