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03-23-2013, 05:25 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by MPrince Quote
I have a couple of rubber lens hoods, and use them for lenses I own that didn't come with lens hoods. They work just fine, but don't offer much in the way of protecting the front element of the lens in the event of a mishap.
This.

Also, the two best & cheapest camera accessories for improving image quality are a hood and a tripod.

I've seen a pronounced improvement in contrast on the Q with the 02 lens when adding a (relatively cheap) hood. Same goes from every other lens out there.

Rubber hoods, well, they provide shade (so does your hand, in a pinch), but they tend to attract "gunk and dust and cat-hairs", and also do not protect the lens. Occasionally, I'll have to change lens in a snap and pop a lens into the bag without having time to put on a cap...a rigid hood does fine in protecting the front element, whereas a rubber-thingie...not so much.

03-23-2013, 07:05 PM   #17
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the best hood is the metal hood from takumar 135mm lens, it works very very very well with the 50mm f1.4 and 35mm f2.8
beisdes protecting your front elemnt from damage, it protects it from water such as heavy rain, the hood is so long that it's almost impossible to get water in the front element unless you point it towards the sky, also if water drops in, there's a veltet like material near the filter thread that absorbs water

this is the hood i use for those lens,

http://virtualcameramuseum.com/store/accessories/takumar135mm-150mm_lens_hood/1.jpg

it doesn't need a cap, and when you take it off you can turn it around and press it agains the lens, so it saves space in your bag
03-23-2013, 08:22 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Akarak Quote
the best hood is the metal hood from takumar 135mm lens, it works very very very well with the 50mm f1.4 and 35mm f2.8
I have the original hoods for the 135 and 55/2 - they are vastly different in length. So I'm surprised you can use the longer hood on the shorter focal length images without cause problems on the edges of the images.
03-23-2013, 08:35 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by MSL Quote
...I'm surprised you can use the longer hood on the shorter focal length images without cause problems on the edges of the images.
Because for an APS-C sensor, the "edges of the images" is not recorded (compared to a full-frame 35mm format).

03-24-2013, 07:41 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by SOldBear Quote
Because for an APS-C sensor, the "edges of the images" is not recorded (compared to a full-frame 35mm format).

bang bang! there goes my words!
03-24-2013, 08:05 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by SOldBear Quote
Because for an APS-C sensor, the "edges of the images" is not recorded (compared to a full-frame 35mm format).
Sounds reasonable, but I guess I'll have to test it out myself since in relative terms the difference in the size of the two hoods is quite large.
03-25-2013, 01:29 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by MSL Quote
Sounds reasonable, but I guess I'll have to test it out myself since in relative terms the difference in the size of the two hoods is quite large.
I've kinda tested this.. It seems somehow, crop factor of x1.5 applies on lenses too..

Meaning,

50mm = 5 cm therefore, crop factor in: 50mm = 75mm = 75cm (hood length also)
35mm = 3.5cm therefore, crop factor in: 35mm = 52.5mm = ~5.2cm (hood length also)
28mm = 2.8cm therefore, crop factor in: 28mm = 42mm = 4.2cm (hood length also)
105mm = 10cm therefore, crop factor in: 105mm = 150mm = 15cm (hood length also)

Yes, i've tested them for fun.. and more or less, it is around that length for each respective focal length. LOL!
03-25-2013, 05:08 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
I honestly used to think people were just using them to look "pro".
I have yet to meet a pro that hauled around photo equipment just for looks. It either does something positive for the photographer, or it doesn't. And if it doesn't, it may never leave the shop again except to be sold or given away.

03-25-2013, 05:25 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by JimJohnson Quote
it may never leave the shop again
I could agree more, I have enough kit, without non essentials.

It's interesting, next time your in a high tourist photographic area, cameras everywhere, just look round at the number of lenses that are being used with the hoods on, aye, but reversed on the lens as in storage mode.
03-25-2013, 06:17 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by kerrowdown Quote
It's interesting, next time your in a high tourist photographic area, cameras everywhere, just look round at the number of lenses that are being used with the hoods on, aye, but reversed on the lens as in storage mode.
Don't you understand? When properly installed, those bloody hoods bang and catch on things, and make it difficult to remove the lens cap. It's so much more convenient to just let the world bang right on the front element of the lens and blame the camera for being so easily broken. Besides, the hood only helps if you are shooting toward the sun - correct?
03-25-2013, 06:46 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by MSL Quote
I have the original hoods for the 135 and 55/2 - they are vastly different in length. So I'm surprised you can use the longer hood on the shorter focal length images without cause problems on the edges of the images.
I'm doing it the other way around: I use the 55/2 hood for my Vivitar Close Focusing 135mm F/2.8. The lens has a 62mm thread diameter, so I need a 62-49 stepdown adapter ring.



This one is a bit more drastic:


Last edited by SOldBear; 03-25-2013 at 06:57 AM.
03-25-2013, 07:39 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by JimJohnson Quote
shooting toward the sun - correct?
Hell, I wish I knew as much as you, I could be become a proper photographer.
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