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04-23-2013, 12:42 AM   #16
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Can you tell me when to use 1/2000, 1/4000, 1/5000 etc. shutter speed when take a photo?i realize if I use f stop bigger, max on my kit lens is 3.5 at 18 mm I obtain a blurred picture in back of my subject, and if I get a much bigger f , something like f1.7 the blurre is more obviously. Otherwise if I get a smaller f stop, the blurre effect will vanish, but I don't know when to use a f 22, or smaller?
I also realize that most of my pictures looks really clean in User mode, where I selected M and I have full controll of the camera, but I want you guys to make me understand what shutter speed should I use in Tv mode, ex if I want to picture a man riding bike, what shutter and f should use, we suppose the picture will take outdoors in a normal sunny day, and iso won't be a problem.

04-23-2013, 06:10 AM   #17
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Hey there, Pitagora. Welcome.

First off: read your manual with your K-5 in hand and try things out. Most of your queries will be answered that way.

Second: switch your mode dial to "P", which means "programmed autoexposure". The camera firmware has a database of exposure settings for many different lighting scenarios and will give you a sensible set of starting parameters (although note the scenarios outlined above where the meter can be fooled). Assuming you haven't reprogrammed any dials or buttons, the rear dial will now allow you to change your aperture while the front dial will change shutter speed. If you get lost, press the "Green" button to get you back to the starting parameters. When you feel ready, look up "program-line" in your manual which allows you some control over the initial parameters. The beginner's "Green" mode on your mode dial is just "P" mode with a lot of controls disabled. Since "P" mode gives you instant access to Tv and Av (just turn the appropriate wheel) you can ignore those modes for now. Leave "M" for later.

Your ISO questions can be answered by reading the manual. You need to enable the expanded ISO settings. You can also set the upper and lower limits for auto ISO and, IIRC, can set the increment interval.

A blank rear LCD is one of its display options. I'm at work so can't remember which button you need to press to cycle through the options, but it'll be in the manual. There is no eye sensor so the LCD is always on or always off. If you turn it off, make sure you're familiar with the top LCD.

You'll want shutter speeds faster than 1/1000 for special effects. For example, say you're photographing someone throwing a bucket of water. Set shutter speed to, say, 1/2000 and drive mode to the fastest continuous frame rate (6fps IIRC). Now snap away. At least one of the resulting images should look really awesome. The other situation where you'll want really fast shutter speeds is where the light is really bright and you need a fast shutter to cut out light so that the exposure is correct at your chosen aperture.

Lenses. Ultra wide angle and single-focal-length telephoto lenses make framing hard. You may see fantastic shots in the "<BLAH> lens club" threads but your own results may be lacking which will be disheartening and expensive. I'd hold off on the Sigma and 70/77mm lenses until you're happy with what you can achieve at 18mm and 55mm. If you want to try a prime lens, one in the "normal" focal length range will make it easier to get satisfactory results. Suitable lengths available for your K-5 will lie somewhere between 28mm (widish normal) and 43mm (longish normal, and note that the 43mm is very expensive). 28mm lenses are only available second hand and are actually designed for film cameras. FWIW, I don't believe that the 77mm is worth the extra expense over the 70mm.
04-23-2013, 06:36 AM   #18
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Hi pitagora- Would you be willing to go into your profile and enter something into your 'Location' setting? As you will notice, the purpose is to help other members know where in the world you consider home.

Once you have achieved an accurate exposure through a balance of aperture, shutter and ISO, so long as you maintain that balance, you can adjust these settings for artistic purposes. Stop motion versus allow blur (shutter); increase or decrease the amount of the scene that is in focus (aperture); increase or decrease the amount of granularity in your image (ISO). There is a really good tool to show you the interaction of these factors at:CameraSim simulates a digital SLR camera - SLR Photography Demystified

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