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05-02-2013, 08:49 PM   #16
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Getting the fill flash right takes some experience, due to the need to balance the max shutter speed of 1/180 with a wide aperture.

However for snap shots, there's no shame in putting the camera in P mode and then just pop up the flash. Better to use P mode and get the exposure right, than have to take the photo 5 times and loose the spontaneity or have your subject walk off to a lawyers office to get a divorce...

For recovering that photo, try the shadow compensation drop down in Pentax Photo utility. If you're not using that software, it's worth a go for just this sort of problem. It can also do basic fixes (exposure, image tone) on jpegs, as long as they are straight from the camera and haven't been edited in other software first.

--
Shows just adjusting the shadows, the picture can certainly be saved. The original jpeg or RAW would work much better too.


Last edited by calsan; 10-20-2013 at 03:23 AM.
05-04-2013, 05:36 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by calsan Quote
For recovering that photo, try the shadow compensation drop down in Pentax Photo utility. If you're not using that software, it's worth a go for just this sort of problem. It can also do basic fixes (exposure, image tone) on jpegs, as long as they are straight from the camera and haven't been edited in other software first.

--
Shows just adjusting the shadows, the picture can certainly be saved. The original jpeg or RAW would work much better too.
I have DXO Optics Pro. I should be able to do the same in that software, yes?
05-05-2013, 01:05 AM   #18
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Looks like it.
Optimized exposure and contrast for all scenes
05-10-2013, 03:59 AM   #19
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In this instance a very simple solution would have been to get close to the subject aim the camera at her face take the reading and lock the settings step back and shoot, that way your subject is exposed properly.
However your background would then be blown out..

You could have used the on camera flash as fill to expose both properly.

07-18-2013, 11:05 AM   #20
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Neo,

I just read an interesting tidbit/fix for backlighting portraiture shots in Bryan Peterson's book Understanding Exposure. In the past, I've used fill flash with mixed results, usually not very good, or having to snap a lot of photos in order to get just one that was reasonable well-exposed.

Here's his advice: "When photographing a backlit subject that you DON'T want to silhouette, you can certainly use your flash to make a correct exposure; however, there's a much easier way...Move in close to the subject, fill the frame with the face (it doesn't have to be in focus), and then set an exposure for the light reflecting off the face...press the AE-L button and return to your original shooting position to take the photo." See my examples below. I shot in Av mode and didn't touch a dial or knob, didn't change any settings on the camera for these shots. And I didn't use the flash.

I tried this last night with my new K-5ii and DA 40 Ltd. First shot is obviously backlit, thus the figures are silhouetted, which isn't what I wanted.


Here's the same-ish shot. The ONLY thing I did was follow Bryan Petersen's advice: I got right in my subjects' faces and metered for that, then moved back to my original spot. I didn't change any settings from the previous shot.


I think the results are pretty dramatic. Tonight, I'm going to try the same thing but change from mult-meter to spot meter linked with AF center-point, AE locks when AF locks. I'm hoping by using the spot metering, I can meter my subject's face from my original spot without moving because, as might have been your case, it will be impractical for me to move into my subject's face and then move back (I'm going to Disneyworld in two weeks, so I don't think I'll have the time to do this, so I'm hoping to use spot metering in the same way Peterson describes).
07-18-2013, 11:33 AM   #21
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In Post-Processing, on your overlook shot, you don't want to adjust exposure but shadow recovery - as already mentioned. It's a great technique for people wearing hats, too.

Another purpose I found for the AE-L is with sun shining through clouds. I'll lock on the bright open sky (with spot-metering) and then shoot the clouds with their sunbeams. It really seems to work well particularly with polarizers for the clouds.
07-18-2013, 11:52 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by tele_pathic Quote
Neo,

...

Here's his advice: "When photographing a backlit subject that you DON'T want to silhouette, you can certainly use your flash to make a correct exposure; however, there's a much easier way...Move in close to the subject, fill the frame with the face (it doesn't have to be in focus), and then set an exposure for the light reflecting off the face...press the AE-L button and return to your original shooting position to take the photo." .
we have spot metering for that same purpose. get in, get out...
07-22-2013, 07:32 PM   #23
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AE-L was designed for zooms. Zoom in to spot meter, lock your exposure, compose, shoot. It's a better way to set exposure than the guesswork of EV compensation.

07-25-2013, 06:42 AM   #24
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AE-L also comes in handy when you are doing a video and want to maintain the correct exposure or you are using ND/Faders or time lapse. A VERY useful feature!
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