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05-13-2013, 05:13 PM   #16
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Flabergasted at the people saying the first pic is about right.
The duck looks completely blown out surely ???

05-13-2013, 05:21 PM   #17
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My comments were not that the lighter photos were just right. It is that the processed photos are too dark. The distinction is important.
05-13-2013, 06:20 PM   #18
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I'd say the first of the pairs is only a bit over - perhaps a 1/2 stop or so. The seconds are too dark.

My 150-500 is blowing things out regularly now, at about +2 stops. I should send it in.. :-(

You should go through some of the longer post-your-photos threads and check the photos there. They should all look just about "right" on your monitor. If not, it's your monitor :-)
05-15-2013, 02:52 PM   #19
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Hi All,

Thanks for all the comments.

My laptop (windows) is out on a stand all the time so my viewing position of the screen only moves by how much I'm slouching.

I went through the calibration piece in windows and made a marginal change to the gamma, other than that everything seemed correct to me. I don't see an issue when looking at other photos so I don't think it is the screen. I don't really understand how some on the thread can say that the ducks white bits are right. The second is probably too dark because I dropped the exposure until I thought the white parts look right, I need to do more sophisticated PP to get it right.

I guess I'll go with reducing the exposure in camera a little and see how I get on.

Cheers,
Steve

05-15-2013, 03:41 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by superduper Quote
Hi All,

..... I don't really understand how some on the thread can say that the ducks white bits are right. ....
and me, the body seem blown to bits for me. Are we all looking at the same image ?
05-15-2013, 05:50 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by superduper Quote
I went through the calibration piece in windows and made a marginal change to the gamma, other than that everything seemed correct to me.
Steve, I don't mean to offend you, but your brain lies to you. I've used the Windows calibration tool too - very carefully in fact. My brain lied to me - big time. And I didn't realize it until after I used any eye other than my own - a Huey Pro. After this mechanical eye was done doing its analysis, it created a color profile for my monitor. I can switch back and forth between my Windows calibration tool and Huey Pro at will. My Windows version looks overly bright and garish.
05-15-2013, 08:49 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by superduper Quote
Just want to confirm is this is real and not my monitor or preference of how the photo should look. If it is a real effect are there any thoughts about what I can do about it?
The variety of responses has me shaking my head some. I think your laptop monitor is good enough to correctly view and diagnose this common problem.

The only generalized comment I'll make is that the OP should learn more about post processing. Specifically to this image, the center lighter portion of the duck's body is overexposed by 1.3 stops, while the rest of it is good enough. Having a bright object in the center of the frame can throw off metering, but it is an easy fix in post. It is better to over expose in the original shot as you have done.

One approach is to edit this in ACR or Lightroom. Simply apply significant Highlights controls, say about -50-ish. Then use the tone curve to tamp down the highlights and the lights between -25 & -35 or so. A medium dose of Clarity could be tolerated. A healthy dose of sharpening as it is sorely needed. And you are done.

M
05-15-2013, 10:17 PM - 1 Like   #23
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You know, it surprises me, that there is all this discussion about the monitor, etc, but still not a single point of verification on the camera. Take a shot at each aperture, of a uniformly lit lock wall or paved roadway, using neutral JPEG settings and look at where the histogram lies. It should peak at about 115 to 125

I have found that some lenses, like my tamron 27-75/2.8 have an error in exposure due to their aperture mechanism where wide open it is spot on, but as you stop down the exposure progressively drifts upward, to about +1 stop or about 45 greyscale at F32

Check the calibration of the cameras metering and the accuracy of the lens first.

If that is ok, then go into monitor calibration, but when making adjustments you should always keep an eye on the histogram, not the monitor, as the final arbitrator of too bright

05-16-2013, 12:55 PM   #24
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Yes, good points .... I tend to think 'monitor' before 'camera/lens' simply because I know most monitors are horribly mis-calibrated.
05-16-2013, 01:09 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by JimJohnson Quote
Yes, good points .... I tend to think 'monitor' before 'camera/lens' simply because I know most monitors are horribly mis-calibrated.
To that point, I always look at the histogram when making adjustments in PP, simply because I don't even trust my calibrated monitor, but I know the result with a correct histogram
05-16-2013, 03:10 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
To that point, I always look at the histogram when making adjustments in PP, simply because I don't even trust my calibrated monitor, but I know the result with a correct histogram
I trust my calibrated monitor, but also use the histogram. I think that what I do is to adjust on sight, and check with the histogram.

(and now, a hi-jack / rant ...)

That said, while I am surprised that it works "so well" with calibrated monitors, and exporting to sRGB makes a picture look "alright enough" on e.g. my iPad, numerous are the times when a friend say "your pictures on the web look so weird on my (uncalibrated, with brightness set to max, and contrast 'up there' also) screen".

And then, there's the whole "showing photos on a TV with an AppleTV (or similar device)" issue....I swear, my next living room TV has to be one which works with my Munki for calibration. While it's bearable, it's also effing frustrating when showing shots that you *know* should look so much better....
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