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05-20-2013, 12:07 PM   #1
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Is this sharp?

Hello!

I have a K5-II and a Tamron 28-75 and this combo is supposed to be fairly sharp (thanks for the tips)
But I have a feeling that my pics aren't that sharp? Am I looking at it too closely or what?

I'd love to hear your impressions!

http://twostroke.be/pics/tourist.jpg

This is a clean shot, imported in Lightroom with the following sharpening settings:

Amount: 35
Radius: 1.4
Details 15

Shot info:

ISO100
43mm
f/9.0
1/60

Anyway, I want to be sure that there's nothing wrong with either the camera (open box purchase) or the lens.
If it's technique, then it's just something I need to work on . If it's just me zooming in to far, than that's just something I'll need to work on as well


I've been 'out of the game' for a few years so I need to get up to speed

Cheers

Benny

05-20-2013, 12:11 PM   #2
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I see motion blur... With F9, and seeing the image, I think it's not a mis-focus. At 43mm and 1/60s, I would definitely say it is motion blur (camera shake).
05-20-2013, 12:16 PM   #3
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I think so too. The photo is okay sharp, but its not super sharp. Its probably either misfocused or the shutter speed is so low that hand-holding shake is showing up. I suggest you use shutter speed faster than 1/125, especially when there is enough sunlight. You can see that its motion blur if you look at the big screw just under the handles. Looks smudged, not OoF, not soft.

Also, some say that diffraction can start at f9 already, though I don't think thats a huge problem.
05-20-2013, 12:21 PM   #4
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You're right.

How about this one: http://twostroke.be/pics/lml.jpg

ISO 100, F8, 1/125

I'm really struggling to get fast speeds at a decent aperture, even in bright sunlight at 100 ISO. Does the UV filter make this worse?

05-20-2013, 12:30 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by twostroke Quote
Does the UV filter make this worse?
Oh definitely, UV filters can cause flare, lower contrast, and reduce sharpness. If you use a digital camera, you should only use a UV filter in places where the front of your lens can be damaged. Like, if you are at the sea and there is a lot of salty droplets in the air. In that case its better to have your filter damaged than your lens, even if you sacrifice some IQ.
Do you use auto AF points, or select AF point? Maybe you should try manual focusing, just to get the hang of DoF and sharpness.
05-20-2013, 12:32 PM   #6
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Filter off it is then! I'll try some shots and see what happens.
I do use the AF points, and sometimes MF.
05-20-2013, 12:39 PM   #7
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In the second image, look at the white seat at the back. Look at the detail resolved. It's sharp.

What you are lacking is contrast - which I can only assume is mostly the UV filter's fault.

Also - the old Sunny 16 rule was: In sunlight, you should be able to shoot at F16, 125s, on ISO 100 film. This rule carries over to our dslrs pretty well - so your settings seem like you are getting half the light. Maybe it's not really that sunny when you took the shot (cloud cover, etc).

The Tamron performs well at F5.6 also, and your k-5 should also perfect very well at ISO 200. Those two settings can easily bring your shutter speed to 1/500s in comparison to your stated settings, That would instantly eliminate any fear of camera shake, even at 75mm.

Last edited by JinDesu; 05-20-2013 at 12:48 PM.
05-20-2013, 12:46 PM   #8
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It's back in the packaging and will only come out when I'm near the ocean/beach

Thanks a bunch!

05-20-2013, 01:18 PM   #9
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Photozone.de shows that lens has max sharpness at 5.6. Your image is OK sharp for a zoom, but not amazing. The UV filter could be making the IQ worse, probably by adding just a little hazy flare which reduces contrast. Remove the filter and use a hood.

Also, try taking a shot with more interesting lighting, maybe something with sharp changes from light to dark. The mini bike image is just kind of flat tonally. Sharpness is probably less important than interesting light, which provides contrast.

If you really want super high sharpness, the Sigma 30 1.4 is sharper than anything, but only in the center. Any of the DA limiteds is stunning. I still say don't worry, and just go take interesting images.


Edit: I see others made the same comments while this was in my browser. Sorry for being slow.
05-20-2013, 04:15 PM   #10
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This lens can do sharper than that, but it is also known to be prone of misalignment due to flimsy built quality. Pretty much the story of Tamron.
05-21-2013, 11:40 AM   #11
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Okay, here are some (indoor, sorry) shots of the same subject, both at 5.6, ISO100 around 35mm.
Same sharpening settings on both shots, focused (manually, but it beeped to confirm it was sharp according to the AF) on the transparent bead above the rose (my girlfriend makes these things, just had them around )

Tamron:
http://www.twostroke.be/pics/tamron.jpg

Pentax-M 35mm 2.8 prime:
http://www.twostroke.be/pics/pentax.jpg

Again same question: is this sharp 'enough'? Both look very similar to me (not a trained eye) so if bother are not sharp enough it might be the camera itself?
If both are sharp according to you guys I can get some sleep, if not, then I might take my gear back to have it checked by the retailer or manufacturer. The fact that the body was a returned unit has me worried (was about 100eur cheaper) ( but I do have warranty so...)

Again, I might be pixel peeping a bit to much at all might be well ... what do you think?

Last edited by twostroke; 05-21-2013 at 12:42 PM.
05-21-2013, 12:09 PM   #12
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The Tamron is sharp. You can make out the fine hair right above the right side of that transparent yellow bead and the texture in the solid yellow bead on the left.

Side note - the "beep" is not an indication of focus. The little green hexagon is. Alternatively, going into live-view and manually focusing at 10x magnification (or whatever the k-5II can do) would be best.
05-21-2013, 12:13 PM   #13
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I focused in LiveView.
Thanks for the tip about the hexagon! Didn't know that (need to plow through the manual)

So it seems that the lens and camera are fine then?
Now I just need to work on technique and finding good lighting
05-21-2013, 01:14 PM   #14
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From those images, I would say it is fine. You should try to take some at F2.8, as that should be it's weakest normally used aperture. F5.6 and F8 should be sharp for every lens, so it can help determine if you have a faulty lens. Wide open would tell you if your lens is a weak performer or not.
05-21-2013, 10:32 PM   #15
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Here's a similar f2.8 shot.A little less sharp then the 5.6 one ?
Same develop settings as the previous shots, focussed on the red heart

http://www.twostroke.be/pics/2.8.jpg

Lightroom zoomed screenshot (2:1)
http://www.twostroke.be/pics/lr.jpg

Last edited by twostroke; 05-22-2013 at 06:52 AM.
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