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06-24-2013, 01:49 PM   #46
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Never put it in Auto mode.

06-24-2013, 02:22 PM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by keithlester Quote
F/8 and BE THERE
I wondered if anyone would quote this, it's been attributed to Arthur “Weegee” Fellig, a world famous New York photojournalist and street photographer, an all time hero of mine and many other "street guys".
06-25-2013, 06:37 AM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
Never put it in Auto mode.
Bull. Auto is just one more tool. The fact is, if you use any mode other than full manual exposure, but never adjust exposure compensation, you are going to get the same EV in every one of those modes. They are all the same as zeroing the meter for manual exposure. Av is for controlling DOF or lens aberrations, Tv is for controlling the amount of blur. P and TAv are means of having one exposure value change as you tweak another. The biggest difference between Auto, P and TAv is if you are shooting jpegs, the jpeg engine also makes adjustments. If you are shooting RAW, there is even less difference between Auto, P and TAv.

Again, all those modes are there because your tool needs change depending on your subject and the conditions. I have no problem with a beginner starting out in Auto and concentrating first on camera handling (especially shutter release control - I still cringe as I watch my spouse jab the release on her P&S) and composition. If they never get past using the camera like a bridge camera for snapshots - that is their decision. But many budding photographers will start to wonder why somebody else's images looks better and want to learn how to better use their own camera. Follow the thread "Bad image quality?" over in the K-r section of the forum and watch the OP's skill grow.

I use Auto or scene modes quite a bit - when they suit the purpose. You have to learn when these modes won't suit the purpose. The reflected light metering options in my K-30 are pretty good - but there are certainly still times I reach for either my ambient light meter or flash meter - or override any of my meters based on histogram or even just my own eyes. Getting to that point takes a level of dissatisfaction, study and most of all practice - and there is no doubt in my mind that I still need more study and practice. Please don't try to dump it all on a new photographer at the same time just because it is your favorite way to make images.

By the way, Jonathan Mac - the above isn't a bullet aimed at you, rather my impassioned appeal to the group at large.

Last edited by JimJohnson; 06-25-2013 at 07:59 AM.
06-25-2013, 07:20 AM   #49
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Either OP got scared or he went outside applying all the advices he got...

06-25-2013, 09:30 AM   #50
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I think it's an interesting thread because more experienced photographers will get this question or something similar a lot. You only get one shot at it. If you lose the person's interest at the beginning by talking about 14 bit RAW vs. 12 bit, they won't be around when you get to useful stuff.

About modes: the only mode to avoid is Green. It takes over everything, even your chosen file type, and allows no changes. It's almost a virus.
06-25-2013, 10:57 AM   #51
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
About modes: the only mode to avoid is Green. It takes over everything, even your chosen file type, and allows no changes. It's almost a virus.
Not true - at least not on either the K-r or the K-30. I have full option to shoot jpg, RAW or RAW+. What green mode does in addition to the equivalent of Program exposure is modify some settings of the internal jpg creation engine. If you shoot RAW rather than jpeg, the most annoying thing is automatically popping up the built-in flash - I always hate that when I am wearing a hat with a brim.
06-25-2013, 11:52 AM   #52
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QuoteOriginally posted by ThueO Quote
Hello

If you were to give one piece of advice someone, who has never touched a dslr camera before.
What would it then be?
Aim for the eyes...

Seriously.
06-25-2013, 01:58 PM   #53
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QuoteOriginally posted by JimJohnson Quote
Bull. Auto is just one more tool. The fact is, if you use any mode other than full manual exposure, but never adjust exposure compensation, you are going to get the same EV in every one of those modes. They are all the same as zeroing the meter for manual exposure. Av is for controlling DOF or lens aberrations, Tv is for controlling the amount of blur. P and TAv are means of having one exposure value change as you tweak another. The biggest difference between Auto, P and TAv is if you are shooting jpegs, the jpeg engine also makes adjustments. If you are shooting RAW, there is even less difference between Auto, P and TAv.

Again, all those modes are there because your tool needs change depending on your subject and the conditions. I have no problem with a beginner starting out in Auto and concentrating first on camera handling (especially shutter release control - I still cringe as I watch my spouse jab the release on her P&S) and composition. If they never get past using the camera like a bridge camera for snapshots - that is their decision. But many budding photographers will start to wonder why somebody else's images looks better and want to learn how to better use their own camera. Follow the thread "Bad image quality?" over in the K-r section of the forum and watch the OP's skill grow.

I use Auto or scene modes quite a bit - when they suit the purpose. You have to learn when these modes won't suit the purpose. The reflected light metering options in my K-30 are pretty good - but there are certainly still times I reach for either my ambient light meter or flash meter - or override any of my meters based on histogram or even just my own eyes. Getting to that point takes a level of dissatisfaction, study and most of all practice - and there is no doubt in my mind that I still need more study and practice. Please don't try to dump it all on a new photographer at the same time just because it is your favorite way to make images.

By the way, Jonathan Mac - the above isn't a bullet aimed at you, rather my impassioned appeal to the group at large.
Ha ha! I thought about adding afterwards but decided leaving it as a simple statement was more punchy - if someone followed my advice then by the time they realised that it was wrong they would have already learned how to use the other modes - result achieved!. By which time they would no longer be a complete beginner and therefore would have no need of following advice aimed purely at complete beginners.

But how many DSLRs never see life beyond Auto mode? Considering what they're capable of (from any brand), this is a terrible waste.

07-01-2013, 08:18 AM   #54
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Small adjustments to the camera angle, or moving your feet just a few steps one way or another can turn an average photography opportunity into an excellent photograph. While others have mentioned practice many times, I would add that you should be willing to shoot the same object many times with only minor changes to the position and camera settings and you will see for yourself home much the picture may change.
07-01-2013, 09:00 AM   #55
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QuoteOriginally posted by MSL Quote
Small adjustments to the camera angle, or moving your feet just a few steps one way or another can turn an average photography opportunity into an excellent photograph. While others have mentioned practice many times, I would add that you should be willing to shoot the same object many times with only minor changes to the position and camera settings and you will see for yourself home much the picture may change.
If you don't have the opportunity to do this - consider practicing composition through cropping. I still do this on occasions when I have to shoot fast. I go a bit wide, center the subject, and fix things later.

This isn't the best example, but my dog simply won't look me in the eye - and he now extends that to the camera. He will either look away, or get up and walk to me looking down. Shoot fast!
Here is the crop:


And here is the untouched original, other than file size reduction:
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PENTAX K-r  Photo 
07-01-2013, 10:00 AM   #56
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QuoteOriginally posted by JimJohnson Quote
If you don't have the opportunity to do this - consider practicing composition through cropping. I still do this on occasions when I have to shoot fast. I go a bit wide, center the subject, and fix things later.
I'll extend my original point to also include cropping - small cropping changes image can have huge impact on the final image. By removing undersireable elements the overall composition will be greatly enhanced. Larger crops can completely change the feel of a picture as @JimJohnson showed.
07-01-2013, 11:32 AM   #57
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I would like to use my cropped photo as justification for one other thought - don't buy a teleconverter (TC) as a way to save money instead of buying a longer lens. Unless the TC is specifically matched to a lens, or you are willing to pay nearly as much for the TC as you would for the longer lens, with few exceptions, you are better off 'zooming digitally' - in other words, cropping. Not only is cropping 'free' (meaning you probably already have the software tools), you don't have to carry yet another gadget around in your soon to be overweight camera bag.

Even the kit lens bundled with your camera has much better resolution and lower distortion than almost any TC that will fit in your budget.
07-01-2013, 12:02 PM   #58
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Peter Zack once told me, "Shoot with the lenses you have, not with the lenses you dream about."
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